Help with winterization of 30hp evinrude

[basstender10.6]

I am going to buy a boat with a 30hp evinrude 1997. I have no idea how to winterize it. Can anyone help me
out?

 

[Home Cookin']

Re: Help with winterization of 30hp evinrude

there are two parts to this.

One is to prevent damage from freezing. All you have to do is drop the motor, let it drain, and leave it there. The beauty of outboards. If you drain it then tilt it back up, rain water can fill in the prop area then freeze. Also, check your lower unit oil to be sure it doesn't have water in it (it shouldn't).

You can use the motor any time in the winter. of course, if you live where it doesn't freeze, don't worry about this part. If you leave the boat in the water (I do) tilt the motor but drop it when the temps are below freezing.

Second part is fogging the motor to protect the insides, carbs, etc. for the several months it isn't being used. So if you might use it during the winter, even if it's once every month or two, don't bother. I'll let someone else advise you on fogging sincer I don't fog mine (and no harm done).

 

[basstender10.6]

Re: Help with winterization of 30hp evinrude

Thanks! that sounds easy!

 

[JDusza]

Re: Help with winterization of 30hp evinrude

Concur with Home Cookin'. No need to get real intense if you are going to use it within a couple months.

If you will not be using the engine over the winter or for longer storage:
1 Run the carburetor out of fuel by running the engine with a disconnected gas line. This is done so no fuel remains in the carb bowl to gum up. It also leaves the float/needle valve in the "down" position and open so it will not stick up in the closed position.
2 When you have to choke it to get the last of the fuel, give the intake a shot of fogging oil. This will coat the carburetor and intake manifold. Protects them against corrosion.
3 After the fuel is run out and the engine dies, remove the plugs and shoot a blast of fog oil into each cylinder, then turn the engine over a couple times, with the plugs still out, to coat the cylinder walls. You don't need much. If you go crazy here, you may have a hard time starting fouled plugs in the spring with a lot of oil smoke. All you need is quick shot in each.
4 Drain water from the lower unit by opening the oil drain hole and vent. Water is heavier than the gear oil and will drain first. When the oil comes out, there's no more water in there. Check the condition (color, viscosity and presence of metal chips) of the oil and replace if necessary; color and viscosity. If there's metal chips, you have gear damage going on inside the lower unit.
5 Check the condition of the plugs, clean and regap or replace as necessary.
6 Lightly oil (WD-40) all pivot points and grease all zerks. DO NOT grease the oil points, they get gummed up. You don't know how many times I see this mistake.
7 Cover the engine with a plastic bag or canvas cover to keep the sun and ice off it.
8 Store it upright.
9 Don't keep the fuel. Put it in your car. It will run fine in the four-stroke engine. In the spring, use new fuel.
10 That'll be $150.00! Please pay the attendant on your way out. lol

In spring, you'll be able to fire it right up with no "summerizing" necessary.
Best of luck! You're gonna be fine.
J

 

[nwcove]

Re: Help with winterization of 30hp evinrude

another opinion.......do not run it dry of fuel. add fuel stabilizer to a full tank stabilized fuel is good for a season in a full tank (full for condensation reasons), fog it only through the carb , and try your best to keep it running till it stalls.....it will smoke and sputter.
i do agree on the lower end advice, make sure its water free, so it doesnt corrode or break from freezing.
store it vertical
dont "bag" it outdoors, that will cause condensation under the cowl. ( something above it to keep major rain out will work).

just another opinion!

 

[HighTrim]

Re: Help with winterization of 30hp evinrude

I never run my motors out of fuel either, nor suggest it on here. May get someone down the road with a multi carb motor read it and try it himself, burning out a cylinder. I add stabilizer, and run it long enough to get the fuel into the system.

I also fully change the gear oil at least once a year. For one the washers should be changed once they are "crushed" and secondly the oil may be spent or there may be a pocket of water in it. Not something I would personally gamble on for $10 worth of oil and $2 in washers.

 

[basstender10.6]

Re: Help with winterization of 30hp evinrude

Thanks so much for all of the replies! It really helped. When I drain the lower unit oil to make sure there is not water, do I have to replace it or can I wait until spring to do it. (basically is it OK to drain it and keep it empty for the winter?

 

[HighTrim]

Re: Help with winterization of 30hp evinrude

No fill it back up right away. As mentioned, replace the drain and vent screw gaskets.