Here's a good one - MQ14E - Broken Lower unit attaching stud

[jeff_smith_0423]

Went to drop my l/u tonight so i could do the water pump while i wait for other ignition parts. First two bolts came right out. The third snapped within a 1/4 turn. If you're familiar with the 9.5 L/U, you'll know that the anti-ventilation plate really gets in the way if you were thinking of drilling out the bolt.

Any other ideas?

 

[ezeke]

Re: Here's a good one - MQ14E - Broken Lower unit attaching stud

There should be no threads in the LU so take the fourth bolt out, disconnect the shift rod and take the gearcase off. With a little luck, the stub will be large enough to grab with vicegrips after applying a little heat.

 

[jeff_smith_0423]

Re: Here's a good one - MQ14E - Broken Lower unit attaching stud

Oh, how I wish it was that easy. The gearcase screws are out, the l/u is in forward gear, and it isn't budging a millimeter.

Is it safe to apply heat to the mating surfaces?

 

[ezeke]

Re: Here's a good one - MQ14E - Broken Lower unit attaching stud

If there's a stub corroded in the hole in the lower unit, you could apply heat directly to the stub, then strike the stub.

The mating surfaces don't normally bond unless someone put a sealant on them, because the metals are identical.

Is there no separation at all?

 

[jeff_smith_0423]

Re: Here's a good one - MQ14E - Broken Lower unit attaching stud

None at all. I've given it some gentle raps with a rubber mallet on the mating surfaces as well as the anti-cavitation plate, and there is no movement whatsoever. I can see the broken stud - it broke off right at the nut.

There were actually only three screws - the fourth was missing. Leads me to believe that someone couldn't get this one out and abandoned the task. I just came along with an angry wrist and finished the job for him.

 

[ezeke]

Re: Here's a good one - MQ14E - Broken Lower unit attaching stud

Will the motor run?

 

[jeff_smith_0423]

Re: Here's a good one - MQ14E - Broken Lower unit attaching stud

I briefly ran it before tearing into the ignition. Put in new coils, condensers, and points, but the plug wires are bad and i had to order replacements. So, right now the magneto is in pieces on my workbench while i wait.

Something tells me I should have forked over the extra $250 and bought the 9.9 that had already been gone through.

 

[ezeke]

Re: Here's a good one - MQ14E - Broken Lower unit attaching stud

Maybe, but the 9.5 is usually a OK motor if the parts are all good. I would try again to get some separation between the midsection and gearcase. Use the heat if you don't care about the paint job, otherwise try the rubber mallet some more, going slowly around the circumference. Use an old bolt and hammer to force the stubs if you can get to them.

 

[jeff_smith_0423]

Re: Here's a good one - MQ14E - Broken Lower unit attaching stud

Yeah i really don't care about the paint at this point. I'm not sure if the original scheme was blue paint or not, but this one sure is. Time to get some propane.

 

[BigB9000]

Re: Here's a good one - MQ14E - Broken Lower unit attaching stud

dont hit the plate with a mallet, youll break the fins off.

are you sure you got the bolts under and near the trim tab out?

I fogot about thoes things, I took the sledge to my parts engine before I remembered I didnt take them out

 

[jeff_smith_0423]

Re: Here's a good one - MQ14E - Broken Lower unit attaching stud

dont hit the plate with a mallet, youll break the fins off.

are you sure you got the bolts under and near the trim tab out?

I fogot about thoes things, I took the sledge to my parts engine before I remembered I didnt take them out

There aren't any bolts under or near the trim tab. Just the four that attach the gearcase to the exhaust housing. Actually, there is no adjustable trim tab. Just an exhaust snout.

Somebody has already been banging on the plate - one corner of it is already gone.

 

[ezeke]

Re: Here's a good one - MQ14E - Broken Lower unit attaching stud

There is no trim tab on a 9.5.

Only four bolts hold the gearcase to the midsection.

You have to drop the unit down enough to reach and disconnect the connector on the shift rod to release the shift rod.

The rubber mallet is the least damaging object to use to break the seal.

 

[rolmops]

Re: Here's a good one - MQ14E - Broken Lower unit attaching stud

Put some penetrating oil around the seals and let it sit for a day. Then take a 2 by 4, lay it flat on the cavitation plate and give it a good whack.This way you can exert a lot more force without breaking the plate.

 

[lbentz]

Re: Here's a good one - MQ14E - Broken Lower unit attaching stud

Try to insert a putty knife, where the lower unit attaches and wiggle the lower unit in a back and forth motion. There isn't anything other than the 4 bolts holding it together. Sometimes, the o-ring on the upper end of the drive shaft gets sticky, but even then the lower unit should wiggle back and forth.

 

[jeff_smith_0423]

Re: Here's a good one - MQ14E - Broken Lower unit attaching stud

Yep. took some gasket remover and slathered it all around the mating surfaces - intentionally removing all of the paint. I think the problem is threefold. I think someone really screwed this one up. the one missing stud has some sort of adhesive compound around the screw hole. On top of that, i think that the whole motor was painted, potentially sealing the surfaces together.

So, removed the paint, slathered with with deep creep, and let it sit.

I can get a putty knife in on the side where there are no studs, but not on the side where the one stud was missing and the other broke off. That's the side that's obviously is binding things up. a new mallet and some propane is in store for tonight.

thanks for all the suggestions.

 

[jeff_smith_0423]

Re: Here's a good one - MQ14E - Broken Lower unit attaching stud

Yep. Tried everything. Heat, PB-blaster, mallet, 2x4, standing on the anti-vent plate, etc. It's going nowhere. It was pumping enough water to keep it cool in the barrel, so i'm going to reassembe the igntion, get that all straightened out, and then put it in the shop. I love it when 20 minute jobs turn into $200 shop bills.