Great thread...
Thank you for posting, the result was unexpected....
Valuable information
Now I'm curious about this "limp home mode" that the engine may have went into. Anyone heard of this? I haven't until now. So apparently, the engine sensed it was getting warm at WOT. It bogs down to prevent getting too hot, but allows you to run at a slower operating speed to get to the dock. So when the impeller was damaged, it went into this mode presumably. The impeller was still spitting water, but not nearly enough for WOT. I took it out, as mentioned, and it ran like a charm and the 'pee stream' was stronger than it ever has been. Again, it's a 1995 Johnson 30 hp outboard, didn't even know engines had a limp mode.. I guess regulated by the power pack?
That's interesting. No I haven't. In fact, the tank is one of those duratank 6 gallon tanks that has no adjustable valve. Supposedly I e read it vents itself, but sure doesn't seem that way to me.10 minutes? have you tried running it with the fuel tank cap loose?
You aren't trying to let air ESCAPE....you are trying to let it INTO the tank....so that the system isn't under a vacuum.
What's your thoughts on those Duratanks? It's a nice tank, but it supposedly releases without a manual vent. I prefer a manual vent to be honest. It seems more reliable. Should I order a new tank or just loosen the gas cap?
I would be happy to just order a SeaSense or comperable 6 gallon tank with manual vent and new fitting for a Johnson motor to go into the tank. That seems most logical and saves a trip to the shop for a $40 tank.
Also, any idea why it would only do this at WOT?
OMC for years made tanks with unvented filler caps. The tank was sealed until the fuel line was connected. Worked fine.
If the tank vent is almost completely blocked it still might allow enough air for low fuel demand operation but at WOT, where fuel requirements are much greater, the venting could be less than needed.
You did say the engine did flip up upon the impact. If the motions were violent enough then maybe it did a slight adjustment to the float in the carb
Without being able to have the engine front and center to be able inspect it... It sounds most like a fuel delivery issue, but a thorough check of ignition system should also be done
is there any reason not to switch to a manual vent tank? Can't see why not?
That makes perfect sense. The tank does leak near the fuel connection when it gets really hot out I've noticed. Maybe it is blocked partially?
is there any reason not to switch to a manual vent tank? Can't see why not?
I don't know about the fuel tank stuff. But have you checked/changed the fuel filter(if you have one)? Maybe the carb is clogged?
10 minutes? have you tried running it with the fuel tank cap loose?