How do I KNOW when I'm done compounding???

tmh

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I never thought of asking this, but I'll be trying to bring my hull back to life in a week or two and I remember from a test section last fall that it's very hard to know when you've "got it". What I mean is that you can compound and shine it up and it looks great, then an hour or day later the white chaulkiness is back!

I've read where one should get the wax on pretty soon after compounding but it won't look good if the oxidation shows back through! So....do I wait a few days after wet sanding/compounding before waxing to check the surface? Any other ideas?

Thanks.
 

Yacht Dr.

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Re: How do I KNOW when I'm done compounding???

if you properly rub it .. gel will not fade in a season..

dont use high petrol compounds..and dont wax..just rub..

( 3m super duty for bad oxidation followed by a 3m perfect it compound/polish to remove swirlies..and dont clean extra compound off your pad )

I can give you 3m numbers if you wish.

YD
 

tmh

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Re: How do I KNOW when I'm done compounding???

Not sure what you mean. I rub it, it looks OK, then soon the chaulkiness shows through in places. NOT a long time, an hour or so. Just like when you wipe down oxidation with a wet cloth - it looks good until dry.

"Don't wax"? Everyone says wax is NEEDED to protect from future oxidation, right?

No need for product #'s, but thanks. I have saved many threads that discuss what to use. I just need to know when I have accomplished what I need to with wet-sanding and compound.
 

ondarvr

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Re: How do I KNOW when I'm done compounding???

The oil in the compound can make the surface look good before you actually have a good surface. Depending on the type and amount of solvents and oils in the compound, it may look good for a few days or even a few months, but will look faded as soon as all the solvents and oils dry out.

You need to take off enough of the gel coat to get down to where it's still the original color. This may require a course compound or sanding.
 

tmh

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Re: How do I KNOW when I'm done compounding???

OK. But how do I know when I've reached that point? Other than "looks good to me", I have no way of knowing when to stop wet-sanding/compounding. I know gelcoat has limited thickness so i don't want to go right thru it!

Anyone know what to look for to determine if the sanding/compounding step is where you need it to be?
 

flashback

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Re: How do I KNOW when I'm done compounding???

tmh, that's a tough call, I have seen many folks, including myself, buff right thru the gel, particularly on waterlines an stripes where one color is on top of the other.. you can only buff one X amount of times before the gel gets too thin and the glass starts to shine thru..and also that fading of the shine is quite common..it really is telling you that the gel is still pourus and in some cases no amount of buffing will help... maybe its time to sand it down an shoot a coat of emron or algrip on it...............
 

tmh

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Re: How do I KNOW when I'm done compounding???

OK, what are "emron" and "algrip" used for? Do they cover the sanded-through gelcoat areas?

I may find I don't have enough gelcoat left to recover the shine, then I'll have to use plan "B", whatever that is. it may just be to have a boat that looks it's age I guess. I can live with that ...certainly rather than making this a full-time job! It's a $4k used boat, so i need to be reasonable. It looks OK as is, but I would like to get those chaulky areas looking better.
 

clemsonfor

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Re: How do I KNOW when I'm done compounding???

I assume its paint and he is talking about just sanding down to roughen the surface enough to take the paint and allow it to stick.

-Nate
 

flashback

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Re: How do I KNOW when I'm done compounding???

You got it clemsonfor, they are both 2 part epoxy paints that are tough and shiny.. they will last a long time and look good.. If your not familiar with spray painting, you should have a pro do it for you as these paints are very expensive and not very good for living beings. protective gear is a must.. I have seen some very good results from rolling and tipping as an application but have never tried it myself..
 

Yacht Dr.

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Re: How do I KNOW when I'm done compounding???

4k used boat? what kinda boat..size? age ?

dont paint with " Imron" or " Awl-girp" paint sux..use gel

YD.
 

Yacht Dr.

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Re: How do I KNOW when I'm done compounding???

Yacht said:
if you properly rub it .. gel will not fade in a season..

dont use high petrol compounds..and dont wax..just rub..

( 3m super duty for bad oxidation followed by a 3m perfect it compound/polish to remove swirlies..and dont clean extra compound off your pad )

I can give you 3m numbers if you wish.

YD

You have to Rub real hard m8 ( not on the edges though )

IF you do go through..dont consider using Paint to resurface If you allready have gelcoat.

YD.
 

flashback

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Re: How do I KNOW when I'm done compounding???

YD, I guess it's all a matter of opinion, but I have painted several boats with imron and have had wonderful results and a long lastiing shine.. I wouldn't try to re-gel one as every time I have sprayed gel for a small repair, I get orange peel in the gel and have to sand and buff the stuff.. it's just too thick to get a nice even coat..but if you have a secret, please let us know...
 

salty87

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Re: How do I KNOW when I'm done compounding???

tmh-

i'd say you know you've rubbed enough when you see the surface grit become lose. there's a point where resistance becomes less and rubbing easier, you might also notice the shine really coming through at that point. hopefully, your pad is fairly clean because you've been cleaning it often (each new section of hull). if so, when the surface loosens, the pad should be picking the crap and your old gel up. has your pad turned the color of your boat? have you noticed in any sections that were shinier than others?
 

Yacht Dr.

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Re: How do I KNOW when I'm done compounding???

Question flash..

you say that when you to a small repair in Gel you have to sand and buff..yes..you do. Its the nature of gel.

however...lets say you have a repair on a painted surface..how would you go about repairing that ??

1. do the repair ( buffing way outside your repair area first )
2. prime the repair ( then wait 24 hours for cure )
3. block repair..scuff outside your repair area
4. mask the crap outa the repair ( seeing as you cant use a preval to spray paint so overspray will be a problem .. oh..and you have to have a compressor on site then.. )
5. spray repair
6. let cure..and buff and blend repair ( pray you dont burn the paint as you dont know how much is on there after you prepped it )

now..that does not seem too simple for a simple small repair m8..

GEL ( same repair ) =

1. grind .. repair
2. fair
3. spray with preval ( wipe off overspray )
4. sand and buff
5. hold out hand and collect check then handshake

I could do a gel repair in 1 hour if i dont have to match. ( which I didnt even get into with paint .. oye..match paint..DOH sux )

The reason most peeps dont like Gel for a Full spray is .. well..they dont know how to do it..or too afraid to try. many reasons are told as to why its not as good as Imron or Awl-grip..but it is simple. dont know how or never realy learned the elusive Monster of GEL.

PS. there are secrets for a full gel spray..but I wont post them on any Forum...sorry. ( well..not yet ;) )

YD
 
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