How do I start a 1979 Johnson Stinger with no wiring connected?

Fed

Commander
Joined
Apr 1, 2010
Messages
2,457
What opens the circuit?
The key switch opens the black/yellow kill wire whenever it's turned to 'run' or 'start'.
When you turn the key switch to 'off' it grounds the black/yellow kill wire.

Edit: If you start it without a controller connected you will have to use an alternative method to stop it.
 
Last edited:

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,553
ctdude -------You still are grasping at how this works.---The solenoid is only energized while cranking with the starter motor and has NOTHING to do with stopping the motor.---------You MUST get a manual and read it 3 times as you are making it far more complicated than what it is !!!!!
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
racerone, does the 1979 manual tell how to troubleshoot it with a DVA or does it still use the (obsolete) old neon tester? In any case, I agree that understanding how the system works is absolutely the first step. That is the beauty of the manual. A bit of basic electricity knowledge doesn't hurt either.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,553
This clearly demonstates that when wires and voltage / current is involved it becomes difficult to explain how simple it is !!!!
 

ctdude

Cadet
Joined
Jun 13, 2015
Messages
28
The key switch opens the black/yellow kill wire whenever it's turned to 'run' or 'start'.
When you turn the key switch to 'off' it grounds the black/yellow kill wire.

Edit: If you start it without a controller connected you will have to use an alternative method to stop it.
OK< so today after work I disconnected that stop/kill earthing wire and guess what? Sparks a plenty! Wooohooo!

This is awesome news, because it means I can now focus my time, efforts and money towards the fuel system this weekend, and that I hopefully wont have to buy any expensive electrical items.

I cranked and tested using my spark tester (it's like a tube with a neon light inside that lights up when it is "sparked") and it was working great, and then I did the same test with the plugs earthed to the block and they threw a good spark. it actually seemed a bit more white than blue to me, but I'm not going to read a whole lot into it at this stage, but what it shows me is that at least everything on the electrical side seems to be doing its job. I'm pretty bloody chuffed to be honest, and really thankful for the advice and pointers.

Thanks fellas, you've all provided me good advice to get this far. I tried cranking with fuel up to it, but no kick. Still not even a whiff of fuel even when I pulled the plugs. Stuck my nose in there but no fumes at all.

Tomorrow I have the whole day to start the basics of the fuel system. I know fuel is getting to the fuel pump, but it's pressurised when i take the pump cover (filter part as per previous pic) so I still believe there is a fuel blockage before the carbs. I wont do any carb removal/cleaning until i have kits ready and plenty of your good experience and advice as I don't want to do any of that half-arsed.

But I'm really happy with how its going so far. Thanks heaps everyone. I will keep posting of my progress for those who are interested.
 

Fed

Commander
Joined
Apr 1, 2010
Messages
2,457
Undo the drain plugs to see if there is fuel in the carby bowls.
Are you using the choke?
 

ctdude

Cadet
Joined
Jun 13, 2015
Messages
28
Undo the drain plugs to see if there is fuel in the carby bowls.
Are you using the choke?

F_R also advised to pull the drain plugs and check for blockages so I will have a look tomorrow.
As far as choke, I was just pushing, pulling and prodding on rods to try and make something happen. I'll spend a full day on it tomorrow. Stand by for lots of dumb questions. :)
 

Fed

Commander
Joined
Apr 1, 2010
Messages
2,457
Rig a temporary kill wire so you can ground it to turn the motor off.

Crank it over using full choke.

There's a sticky at the top of this forum section describing how to start the motor.
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...hnson-evinrude-cold-start-procedures?t=225510

Pay special attention to...
Additional Notes:
  • Choke Plates: It is often the case that the choke plates are not set so they close fully and stay closed during start. You can remove the outer air cover and visually monitor their operation during start. If they are not closed, or do not stay closed, adjust the position of the choke solenoid in small increments until this condition is achieved.
 

ctdude

Cadet
Joined
Jun 13, 2015
Messages
28
You little beauty!!!!

We've managed to get the old Johno to start! Great work all around fellas, you took a newbie with no engine experience and helped guide him to start a motor that hasn't been cranked for about 2 or so years. I think we should all be pretty happy with this combined effort and awesome result.

I've had my 13yo boy help with a few bits, tinkering along the way, so we've both learnt something from the experience.

OK, so today (after last night knowing I had a good spark) I pulled the air box off, removed the fuel hose to the sides of the carbs, pulled the drain plugs and basically just filled them with carb cleaner and opened/closed throttle/choke, anything that moved, let it sit for a while, cleaned it out, put fuel back up to the motor and started cranking.

It took more than a few cranks, and to be honest I was almost about stop, thinking I was going to have to go a full carb rebuild (which i still might, see how it goes) but then it tried to kick one time, then blew some smoke another time, then kicked and blew smoke, etc, until it sounded like it really wanted to run!

I kept playing around with choke and throttle and finally managed to get it to run while applying a bit of throttle. It wont idle and it needs a bit of choke and play to get it to start, but I am so happy!

OK, so what i know now is that it will start and run, it wont idle, but also it is not pumping any water. Had the muffs on and plenty of water, but it didnt pump any out of back of engine where big holes are or from telltale. Also, when engine stopped it sounded like gurgling inside lower leg, so I think my next project will be the water pump.

Anyway, that's all for now, just really happy it started, and thanks again everyone who provided advice, give yourselves a pat on the back, you gave me the confidence to have a go, and you had the perserverance to stay with me even when it looked like it was going nowhere fast.
Cheers fellas, good work all around!
 

ctdude

Cadet
Joined
Jun 13, 2015
Messages
28
Just to let you all know, I haven't started any further work yet, I was waiting for my service manual to arrive, and it arrived today, so now it's really time to have a good read through it, get all the info from it that I can, and then ask you guys for any tough questions that the manual doesn't cover, but experience does.

Just thougth I'd keep you guys posted so you know I haven't just stopped now that its running, but was waiting for my service manual to arrive to take it to the next level.

OK, cheers guys, i'll keep you posted as i progress.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
I don't mean to offend you so forgive me for saying this. You don't seem to be hearing what we've told you. "Power" does NOT "get to the ignition system". It generates it's own electricity for the ignition. Applying an outside voltage will destroy it. The black/yellow wire shorts the capacitor within the power pack to ground (earth as you call it) when the key is turned to off to STOP the motor.
 

ctdude

Cadet
Joined
Jun 13, 2015
Messages
28
I don't mean to offend you so forgive me for saying this. You don't seem to be hearing what we've told you. "Power" does NOT "get to the ignition system". It generates it's own electricity for the ignition. Applying an outside voltage will destroy it. The black/yellow wire shorts the capacitor within the power pack to ground (earth as you call it) when the key is turned to off to STOP the motor.
No worries mate, no offence. I appreciate the time and effort you all took. Sorry I've been off here for a while, reading the manual, working through some wiring solutions (re-running entire runs) and trying to get my head around the lower leg before I even start to pull that down.

I understood the power generation part when it was first explained to me, stator/magneto/coils etc, but I didn't know where to apply power to turn over the starter so i just put the battery straight across it to crank it, but then it was the "kill switch" (black/yellow wire) that I was struggling with as it was killing the spark but I didn;t know which wire it was. I do now. Now that I have the manual I can see it all in the schematics and its looking pretty simple.
Still might be a while before I finish all the wiring though. Now that I know the motor runs I am happy to take my time and make sure I do things properly.
Cheers, I'll keep you posted.
 
Top