How do you brace your prop for tightening

[Stinnett21]

I've always used a block of wood but I recently had my vent plate fixed on port side and I certainly don't want to damage the weld. Probably overkill but just seeking any input on how you guys do it?

 

[GA_Boater]

The block of wood is probably still OK to use.

Another way is to use the block or longer hunk of wood angled between the prop and ground.

 

[dingbat]

Dont worry about the weld.

The weld is stronger than the base metal. Assuming the welding was done by a skilled practitioner.

 

[harringtondav]

I tighten mine up against my knee, and pray the Merc lock tab does it's job. I've had to change props in the water behind the boat while beached on a sand bar. My knee is always available. Lock tabs haven't failed me yet.

 

[QBhoy]

I’m going to take fire for this, but I put in in gear and don’t tighten too much. With the right torque, You’ll never damage anything. Been doing this for decades without issue.
obviously I don’t ever do this with small engines without ignition etc and that have a chance of starting if you turn the engine over, via the prop. That would be silly now ! Haha.

 

[DeepCMark58A]

I use a short block of wood, my elbow is an experienced torque wrench. It has gotten much more accurate as I have aged.

 

[Stinnett21]

Good info. Thanks guys.

 

[jimmbo]

I use a short block of wood, my elbow is an experienced torque wrench. It has gotten much more accurate as I have aged.

Eventually the Elbow will go 'Click'

 

[H20Rat]

In gear... The torque you are going to put on it is nothing compared to what a normal drive will go through.

 

[bruceb58]

Always use a torque wrench when putting on my Volvo Duo props. They have a torque spec for a reason.

I put mine in gear to tighten.

 

[QBhoy]

Glad I’m not the only one that uses the compression of the engine to torque against. The right torque is never enough to think about turning the engine over via the prop or do any damage, with all inboard outdrives or big outboards.

 

[QBhoy]

All the above aside...I recently became familiar with mercury new type prop locking tab. Not sure I’m all in favour. Anyone came up with an easy less crude way of moving the tabs into place to lock the flat of the nut ? My best way so far is an 8” bacho adjustable wedges against the inner side of the prop edge. Must be a better way ? Also it’s never right square with the specified torque. Either just too much or too little.

 

[harringtondav]

All the above aside...I recently became familiar with mercury new type prop locking tab. Not sure I’m all in favour. Anyone came up with an easy less crude way of moving the tabs into place to lock the flat of the nut ? Must be a better way ? Also it’s never right square with the specified torque. Either just too much or too little.

I mentioned above my 'knee' torque limit that relies on the lock tab's ability to do the job. And it never quite lines up with the lock collar notches. So I give it an extra push to line things up. A small touch over spec torque shouldn't hurt a thing. A properly matched thrust washer, hub and lock collar will just squeeze the hub's splined brass sleeve a bit more.

I know I run a bit under specified nut torque. Risky since prop rotation is counter to lock nut self tightening. But I've owned and repacked enough 'non-driven axle' 2WD auto bearings where the tab washer keeps the self loosening nut solid. The risk I see with my prop is the inertia spike when clunking into FWD. ....tab washer hasn't failed me yet.

 

[QBhoy]

I mentioned above my 'knee' torque limit that relies on the lock tab's ability to do the job. And it never quite lines up with the lock collar notches. So I give it an extra push to line things up. A small touch over spec torque shouldn't hurt a thing. A properly matched thrust washer, hub and lock collar will just squeeze the hub's splined brass sleeve a bit more.

I know I run a bit under specified nut torque. Risky since prop rotation is counter to lock nut self tightening. But I've owned and repacked enough 'non-driven axle' 2WD auto bearings where the tab washer keeps the self loosening nut solid. The risk I see with my prop is the inertia spike when clunking into FWD. ....tab washer hasn't failed me yet.

Agree. I do the same. Go a little over to line them up.
also run enertia props on Two of the boats. Great things.

 

[dingbat]

I know I run a bit under specified nut torque. Risky since prop rotation is counter to lock nut self tightening. But I've owned and repacked enough 'non-driven axle' 2WD auto bearings where the tab washer keeps the self loosening nut solid. The risk I see with my prop is the inertia spike when clunking into FWD. ....tab washer hasn't failed me yet.

The specified torque values are designed to distort the threads, making them for the most part self locking.

You also risk damaging the splines on the prop shaft if not torqued properly.

My Enertia rattled badly using the Merc Flo-torque hub. The noise drove me crazy when trolling.

Swapped the Flo-torque for a Rubex hub and never looked back.

New hub and 55 foot pounds of torque the problem went away.

Evinrude doesn’t use tabbed washers. Properly torquing the lock nut is an essential component in the installation of a prop.