I/O (Sterndrive) Conversion to Outboards

Scott Danforth

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will look on a model of an aluminum pod for the rigging tubes. may be tomorrow by the time I get the info

deck plate. how big is your arm near your shoulder. Armstrong has their own (doesnt use a mounting ring) and the ones with a mounting ring have a smaller opening.

fiberglassing the inside - gravity is your friend. I suggest fiberglass the low flat surface wrapping a bit up each side, cure, turn the assembly 90 degrees, rinse and repeat I would do a good 1/4" or more on the inside (thicker at the joints)

openings in the bulkheads help with access.
 

alldodge

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Diameter of tubes, size of Bat cables, control cables and others. Haven't measured mine but think they are 2.5 ID, look to be 3 OD
 

flashback

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Since your turning the transom in to a bulkhead, will you put watertight doors on the inside, might not be a bad idea. :)
 

tpenfield

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Since your turning the transom in to a bulkhead, will you put watertight doors on the inside, might not be a bad idea. :)
Like the Titanic had ? :ROFLMAO:

Yes, . . . as a matter of fact, the CY 338 OB version actually has 'covers' over the openings to the bracket. Not sure how water tight they are, but they look to be OK for a rapid flood event.
 

tpenfield

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Check point on the weight . . . The Coosa actually used (not what was bought) comes in at about 140 lbs.

I'll probably cut some web holes for accessibility . . . weight savings would be minimal (20 lbs +/-).

I did see that the rigging conduits come in 2" and 2.5" . . . So I'll plan on the 2.5".
 

tpenfield

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I got the transom pieces cut . . . they are loosely attached for now, as are the planing surface pieces. It sort of looks like the 3D model ? :unsure:

IMG_8840-2.JPG
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I have to box in the chine strakes. In the 3D model I had them with no reverse chine. As built, I gave them a bit of lift. (arrows)
IMG_8844.JPG
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Here is a glimpse of the internals with the transom in place (w/o splash wells). I am figuring out some cross bracing.
IMG_8849.JPG
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I'm still working on the paint removal of the boat's transom. Who knew that 10-year old paint remover is not that effective? :unsure: I just put some brandy new stuff on and it seems to be working much faster. . . . :ROFLMAO:
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IMG_8843.JPG
 
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tpenfield

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Back on topic . . .

I've been toying with the idea of web holes in the 3 girder-like stringers in the extension pod.

This is what I came up with . . .
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Ext-Pod-Web-hole-1.png
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There is the one 'center stringer' and two 'engine aligned' stringers (one either side of the center stringer).

Since these stringers are somewhat thin and tall, I am adding stiffeners as shown. The stiffeners will strengthen them and resist any tendency for buckling.
 

harringtondav

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Probably covered somewhere in the previous 514 threads, but how will you get this fully enclosed pod secured to the original transom?
 

tpenfield

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I cut the web holes . . . I need to get something for the stiffeners.
IMG_8852.JPG
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There are quite a few corners that I should probably add the rounded fillets . . . Anyone got tips/tricks for making fillets.
 

Pmt133

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I rounded a body filler spreader over. That worked reasonably well. Small plastic spoons on the small ones. Towards the end I just started laying up on the wet filet which worked well too and rounded it with the roller. I don't know if that is a no no but I only did it on non critical areas. I suppose you could undersaturate the area or thickened resin by having it migrate into the glass.
 
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