I/O (Sterndrive) Conversion to Outboards

tpenfield

tpenfield

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Quick Update . . .

I had a feeling that the underside of the swim deck was fairly substantial in its construction . . .
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It certainly is . . .
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IMG_9410.JPG
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IMG_9409.JPG
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1.05" total thickness

0.33" Fiberglass
0.50" Balsa
0.22" Fiberglass

It has a wee bit more fiberglass than the transom :oops:
 
Scott Danforth

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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tpenfield said:
Quick Update . . .

I had a feeling that the underside of the swim deck was fairly substantial in its construction . . .

1.05" total thickness

0.33" Fiberglass
0.50" Balsa
0.22" Fiberglass

It has a wee bit more fiberglass than the transom :oops:
Click to expand...
similar over-build as my Rogue
 
tpenfield

tpenfield

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redneck joe said:
Shouldn't you be using metric as an engineer
Click to expand...
I still use imperial units of measure . . .

According to Google . . .
"While the U.S. has a policy to adopt the metric system (Metric Conversion Act of 1975) and federal agencies are required to use it, imperial units (customary units) persist in specific industries like civil construction and older infrastructure maintenance. Electrical engineering is almost entirely metric, while structural or automotive engineering in the U.S. may still use imperial units."

I do have a 'meter stick' (metric version of a yard stick) . . . All my tape measures are in feet/inches. FWIW - I use metric in my boat upholstery business.
 
Scott Danforth

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Unlike the Mars rover design team. most engineers use about 3 or 4 units of measure depending on the customer. And get the conversions correct.

I personally like furlongs per fortnight for velocity and cubits for length when in conversation just to throw people off. We also know that a parsec is a measure of distance, not time.

@tpenfield, one of the things I recommend where you cut the access holes in the deck and have exposed balsa is to cut the balsa back about 3/8" (or 10mm) and dress the edge with some fairing compound. it will keep the balsa from soaking up moisture and mold spores from the air and causing problems about 3-4 years down the road.

one of the things I have done is chuck up a 3mm / 1/8" allen key into the drill with the short leg cut down and sharpened on the grinder. a trim router with a top bearing works too.
 
flashback

flashback

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I've also used the allen wrench trick when mounting hardware on a balsa core deck on my old sailboat, it works well.
 
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