I quit! What carb do I have??? 9.9 or 15???

BlackoutBill21

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yeah so its def a 15 hp carb. And ive read the 3000 rpm thread 1 million times lmao. The model number of the motor is E10RLCCD nut the carb is clearly off another motor. Acording to brp parts website, 50 is for the carb that is suposed to be on this motor, 55 is for the 15 and 54 is for the yahttwin. 50 is for the 9.9

problem is I have no idea what motor this magic carb came from lol

someone wanted me to check how the motor runs when i pull the plug wires off. test was normal. engine kept running ok.

I had a thought. Im gunna check the actual rpms on the water next time i go out. is it possible i'm going full speed and my boat just needs 18hp to reach plane? its a 14 ft deep V hull starcraft.

aside from the motor wanting to stall if i give it full throttle too fast, it did hit 5000 rpm in the barrel
 
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Tim Frank

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My point was that you cannot assume anything.

The HS orifices are specific to both model AND carb. You cannot just put in the orifice that is spec'd for your model if it is not the carb spec'd for that model and be assured it will work.

As MTboatguy stated, you need to determine what carb you have first. You might try tracking the float chamber number to the OEM carb it was spec'd for. There is a "reverse lookup" app somewhere....can't remember the website. Maybe someone can weigh in. You could try working back from the float bowl part number and assembling a list of models....then do the same for the upper plastic cover. See if there are any common models.
There is also the good chance that it is a "Frankencarb" assembled from stuff that fits. Just because it bolts up doesn't mean it will work properly.

The orifices also are not interchangeable....as far as i know.
You can get a #50 in 8-32 external thread.....or 1/4-20....C and D type....and 5/16-24. It depends on the float chamber.
That is why the orifice can change a few times for the same HP over a few years...even though the basic design doesn't....the carb does, and all bets are off.
So you absolutely need to use a part number....NOT a "#50" designation. That just indicates the ID in thousand of an inch....not compatibility.

I have a fairly complete chart of OMC orifices....the part number spec'd for your motor is a 323708....its size is 8-32 x 0.050.

Bottom line, unless you can find what that carb was intended for and if it was used on a 9.9 you might be able to use the orifice spec'd for that year.....but maybe not.

I also do not think that 5000 in a barrel is a good benchmark....if you can do that on a boat, then you may be getting max performance already. Only option beyond that would be re-propping.
 

interalian

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Leroy has some good info on this in article 25.
 

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BlackoutBill21

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Wow frank! Understood. I know I was looking originally at part numbers to determine what carb I had and was disappointed to end up nowhere...

I will start with the float bowl as you said and see if I can get the bottom( no pun intended) of what carb I got.

Any my thoughts as to just buying a 9.9 carb and seeing what that does?

Interalien: I’ve read the Leroy article back and forth up and down 1 million times lol but I will again cause I always seem to descover something new every read

ive marked the prop too to make sure she’s not spun... next time out on the water I’ll check rpms and check to see if my marks line up.
 

interalian

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Any my thoughts as to just buying a 9.9 carb and seeing what that does?


ive marked the prop too to make sure she’s not spun... next time out on the water I’ll check rpms and check to see if my marks line up.

This.

I was working on a 9.9 for a neighbor. He bought it without a test run and it was a basket case. The prop was shimmed with a big fat O-ring to hide a spun prop, but that was the least of the problems I found.
 

Tim Frank

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Bumped into that app on a different engine part retailer's website.
It looks like that float bowl started being used as OEM in 1996 on a bunch of models....8HP / 20 / 25 / 35 hp etc.
HJ20CRLEDA.
It spec'd a HS orifice #44 ... 0.044" ID x 8-32....PN 325827.
If you are running a #50 or #55 in your carb configuration, it seems logical that you will be getting a lot more fuel than needed for just a 9.9 HP.
But there are a lot of other design factors that are beyond my understanding. An 8 HP from that year comes with a #50 jet....so while the logic of that escapes me, my guess at this point is that the jet size is not as big a factor as the mish-mash of parts that are not necessarily a functional unit.

Maybe try one of the marine scrap yards for the right carb ....hopefully at an affordable $$....and start from there.
 

BlackoutBill21

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yes tim... My thoughts exactly... i'm starting to think that in addition to the carb not being original to this motor... its a total mismatch of parts.. i'm on the hunt for a carburetor as we speak lol i mean at least it will give me a reference point.

I also ordered a new prop... F@#K it. Might as well go balls to the wall. I need this motor for its long shaft and its hp for the reservoir i go to only allows up to 10 hp
 

oldboat1

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I went in search of a 9.9 carb about a year ago -- found they are out there (NOS and $$$). Everybody was putting 15 carbs on their 9.9s.
 

Tim Frank

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Speaking only for myself of course.... what I would love to know is where the original carb went...and why. :)
 
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