I see roving. Uggghh

[61mysteryboat]

I have a 1960s fiberglass boat that I am restoring. My problem is that I can see the woven roving through the finish. How do I go about covering it up. The amount of work doesn't matter. I just want it to look good at completion. It will be repainted.

 

[ondarvr]

The only option is a combination of filling and sanding, the amount of each can depend on the severity of the roving print. In the early days of boat building people didn't consider the print a defect, it was a sign of strength, seeing the roving print meant it wasn't a solid mat or chop layup, which are relatively weak.

 

[Woodonglass]

61, you really should keep all your posts regarding your project in one thread. It's kinda the forum policy. It makes it much easier for the members to follow along.

 

[61mysteryboat]

Sorry about that. Forum newbie. Thought I needed to start a new thread for each of my topics so it wouldn't wander too far from the initial post. Thanks again for all your input

 

[jbcurt00]

IF the topic is about rebuilding the boat, then yep, it often helps to keep it all in 1 topic where 1 thing ties into or relates to another part. Like what wood to use for stringers, what glass to use and what resin to use are sort of small parts of the whole, so all in 1 could be helpful.

Makes keeping track and offering the best possible advise easier, IMO.

 

[gm280]

Personally I would use proper filters and block sand until the pattern was nicely, but smoothly, covered. And then a good primer and top coat. But that is just my opinion.

 

[jbcurt00]

Are you talking about SEEING or FEELING the roving print thru? On the inside or the outside of the hull?

 

[61mysteryboat]

Both see and feel. Inside and out. Outside is much better but it's definitely there.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Then filling and sanding is what you need to do. There are high build primers you can use but this will depends on what finish you are going with. Are you planning to gelcoat or paint?

 

[61mysteryboat]

2 part paint.

 

[gm280]

2 part paint.

Sounds like a catalyzed paint and if so, then you can use high build primers and block sand to fill the roving. Easy to spray and easy to block sand. JMHO!

 

[61mysteryboat]

Will do. Thanks!

 

[old islander]

Stop by your local automotive paint store and ask for a product called "Feather fill". It is a very high solids, high build primer that is compatible with almost all automotive and marine paints. It is both a filler primer and a high build coating in one. It is also a proven product, being on the market some 40 years or so. Spray 2 good medium coats and block sand away. This will fill the nastiest roving bleed and give you a durable, flexible, lasting foundation for your 2 part top coat.:thumb:

 

[DeepBlue2010]

As I said before, the right choice of the high build primer will depends on you final finish. When you decide on the finishing system you will use, try your best to get the high build primer from the same company that produces the paint to avoid any compatibility issues. You can spray it or brush it, just follow preparation instruction. A dark color such as dark gray will reveal low spots much easier when sanding but if light color is all you can find, use a guide coat. A DA with 220 grit disks will do a really good job if you keep your hand going in overlapping horizontal passes followed by vertical ones. No need to block sand by hand unless you like saning.

 

[gm280]

The reason for block sanding isn't because folks like to hand sand. It is because block sanding eliminates waviness in the finish. Using just hand sanding or even a typical DA sanding technique, will never remove the highs and lows in any finish. A long block sanding effort smooths out all those problems. And used with guide coat ensures such a nice smooth finish. It is the way to go IF you want a really nice finished paint job. You can't simply feel the subtle valleys and high areas in a surface with your hand. But with guide coat, you will see them. JMHO!

 

[61mysteryboat]

I plan on making my own sanding and fairing board like the flexicat. That tool seems to do a great job and should save time. Shouldn't be too hard using an aluminum plate and several types of aluminum c channel. Just can't bring myself to drop a few hundred bucks on each of the ones I'll need. Nice winter project since I can't do any fiberglass work till spring. Just got 12" of snow here in central Michigan.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

The reason for block sanding isn't because folks like to hand sand. It is because block sanding eliminates waviness in the finish. Using just hand sanding or even a typical DA sanding technique, will never remove the highs and lows in any finish. A long block sanding effort smooths out all those problems. And used with guide coat ensures such a nice smooth finish. It is the way to go IF you want a really nice finished paint job. You can't simply feel the subtle valleys and high areas in a surface with your hand. But with guide coat, you will see them. JMHO!

I am very well aware of the benefits of block sanding and when it required and when it is not. In this specific situation, however, using it will yield no better results than a good DA can. High build primers are relatively much easier to sand. In any case, this is what I would do and to each his own.

 

[61mysteryboat]

I think the previous post was referring to the limited width of a da sander and its limited ability to level a large area. My DA sander is only 5" and as such will follow the contours of the imperfections in my hull. A larger sanding surface will level the variances easier. IMHO

 

[61mysteryboat]

Trust me. I always try to use power tools whenever possible but this is one situation where I will have to bust out the elbow grease.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Have at it my friend :joyous: and best of luck to you