Ignition Switch Replacement help needed.....PLZ SAVE MY CAMPING TRIP!!

[SuperYooper]

I am supposed to go camping with my boat tomorrow but can't for the life of me find the answer to this:

1971 Mercry 650 (65 HP)
Serial # 299821

The guy wouldn't give up the ignition switch with the motor so I went out and got:

Sierra MP41070-2 Push to Choke ignition switch

Wires coming from engine:
Black------------Ground
Red--------------Juice
Gray-------------Tach Signal
Pink (slamon?)----Fuel Sener to Gauge
White------------NO WHITE LISTED
Brown-----------Reference Electrode MerCathode System
Yellow----------Starter Solenoid to Starter Motor

(Labels found on maxrules.com)

Wires Coming From Switch:
Black/Green Stripe-------NOT LISTED
Black/Yellow Stripe-------Shorting or top Circuit
Purple-------------------Ignition Switch to 12V positive
Yellow/Red Stripe--------Start Switch to Start Solenoid to Neutral Start Switch
Red---------------------Juice
Black-------------------Ground

All of the sites I can find on this switch tell me the colors are the same as Mercury.

Here is my problem...I have no clue what goes where since Sierra was comfident enough in my ability that they did not include a diagram with the switch...Grrrrr!

The red goes to red and black to black I assume. I have the Yellow/Red Stripe connected to the yellow wire right now and the engine turns over...kind of...It does very weak. The engine was just totally redone and the battery reads full juice. I am scared to turn it over too many times because I am very unsure of the wiring.

If you have any ideas please let me know. A camping trip without fishing it no camping trip at all! Save my camping trip please!!!!!

 

[kahuna123]

Re: Ignition Switch Replacement help needed.....PLZ SAVE MY CAMPING TRIP!!

I am far from an expert on this motor but a few things to look for. The yellow-red is standard on boats for the starter. I had to buy 250ft one time because no one stocked it. The pink wire is not coming from the engine but probably in the same bundle as it is the sending wire from the tank. If the starter is engaging but tuning slowly I would look elsewhere besides your switch. It is giving voltage to the solenoid. Purple most of the time is a 12v feed from a switch probably to your gauges. It should go hot when the key is in the on post. According to the parts manual I looked on Crowley this model has an electric choke also, perhaps that is the white wire. I would follow back to the motor and see what color feeds that choke solenoid. Get a meter and see which of the "don't know" wires goes hot on the switch when you push to choke.

Once again I am no expert but if the starter solenoid is engaging then I don't think it is a switch issue. Also something has to turn that motor off. Maybe someone else will fill in the blanks here.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Ignition Switch Replacement help needed.....PLZ SAVE MY CAMPING TRIP!!

The switch terminals should be marked with a letter next to them. Those letters are as follows:

B = Battery (+12 volts from the battery via the engine harness)
A = Accessory (+12 volts when the key is ON. Feeds the instruments)
C = Choke/Primer (+12 volts to the choke or primer system when the key is pushed in while starting)
M = Magneto
M = Magneto (The two M terminals are shorted together when the key is turned OFF. Kills the engine). One of the terminals goes to ground -- the other to the ignition.)
S = Solenoid (+12 volts to the starter solenoid when the key is turned to start. Energizes the solenoid).

 

[SuperYooper]

Re: Ignition Switch Replacement help needed.....PLZ SAVE MY CAMPING TRIP!!

That is another problem I have Silver, I got the switch with the wires already in the switch so there are no labels on the back of the switch! I tried to find a site that has the switch labeled ut could not find one that is set up like mine. I have a suggestion Iam going to try now so fingers crossed!

 

[SuperYooper]

Re: Ignition Switch Replacement help needed.....PLZ SAVE MY CAMPING TRIP!!

I wired it the way that was suggested and the started engages, turns the motor once weakly and stops. Then I turn the key and it clicks. Bad starter? selenoid? Ignition still wrong? Time to stock up the dynamite in the bilge and light her up like the 4th of July??

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Ignition Switch Replacement help needed.....PLZ SAVE MY CAMPING TRIP!!

No -- it is not time for dynamite. It is time to start thinking! Start at the battery. Is it fully charged? PROVE IT! Are the battery cable terminals clean and tight -- ON BOTH ENDS. You have the common symptoms of a dead, dying, or weak battery or bad cables.

 

[SuperYooper]

Re: Ignition Switch Replacement help needed.....PLZ SAVE MY CAMPING TRIP!!

The battery reads 12.9 so that is good. The connectons at the battery are solid. On the other end it goes into a boot so I can't see how the connection is inside of that. The cables have been extended by connecting another cable to them and those connections look solid. I only see two cables on the starter. One hot and the other a ground. Is that right? There are two smaller bolts on the bottome of it with nothing going to them. Also when It engages andstops, it has a slight whine to it for a bit if I hold the key to start like (you said) a dying battery.

 

[SuperYooper]

Re: Ignition Switch Replacement help needed.....PLZ SAVE MY CAMPING TRIP!!

Off to the campground with no boat...boo!! I will be offline for a couple of days but any suggestions will be tried out when I get back Sunday! Thanks for those who have already helped. I hope the answer will be posted when I get back

 

[Utahboatnut]

Re: Ignition Switch Replacement help needed.....PLZ SAVE MY CAMPING TRIP!!

turn the key on and pull start it, its better than leaving it behind.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Ignition Switch Replacement help needed.....PLZ SAVE MY CAMPING TRIP!!

If youn measure the battery voltage with no load you have proved nothing. Have someone turn the key to START while you measure battery voltage at the same time. It is the load that stresses the battery. You pointed out that the battery cables were "extended" and that the connections "LOOKED" good. Looking is not a check. Disassembly, cleaning, and tightening is a check. The positive cable goes into the engine and attaches to the starter solenoid. Another cable from the solenoid goes to the starter. The starter has a ground cable. So you see, there are lots of points to verify. You can also bypass the entire starting system by using a pair of jumper cables. Connect the black jumper to the NEG terminal on the battery. Other end goes to the engine block. Red cable to the POS terminal on the battery. Touch the other end of the cable directly to the post on the starter. If it still doesn't spin. You need starter work. If it does work normally you need more wiring inspection or possibly a solenoid.

 

[Fireman431]

Re: Ignition Switch Replacement help needed.....PLZ SAVE MY CAMPING TRIP!!

 

[SuperYooper]

Re: Ignition Switch Replacement help needed.....PLZ SAVE MY CAMPING TRIP!!

Hello again,

The battery tests out in a range of 11-12 under load so it is good. I tried the test with the jumper cables and I got the same response as with the switch (which I picked up the actual facotry switch so now I know that is wired correctly). I took it to the local parts store and had it tested out. It didn't have enough power to keep the teeth pushed to the end of the rod so I assuming there is an issue with the starter. Does this make sense to you?

I am headed out to clean out the starter and see if that will work. Problem I am finding out is that this motor is a forgotten cause and parts for the most part are no avaliable. I have found a used one but that is it!

It actually does not have a rope to pull start it. This is the last "project" boat I am getting myself into

 

[SuperYooper]

Re: Ignition Switch Replacement help needed.....PLZ SAVE MY CAMPING TRIP!!

So i ripped open the starter and it was beyond filthy!! It took a can of brake cleaner and two cans of carb cleaner to get it remotely clean. Upon further investigation I noticed one of the bushings was so worn the wire was disconnected and it was hanging out of the bracket. The other 3 bushings are worn right down to the wire as well. I am thinking this is why the starter was not at full power when being engaged. If I am off track here please steer me in the right direction. I have a guy who has a similar starter in which I can use the bushings from. I will get everything put back together and see if I have a different result.


This also makes me think the wiring with the Sierra switch was ok and would work. I wil keep you updated if you want to hear it or not!

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Ignition Switch Replacement help needed.....PLZ SAVE MY CAMPING TRIP!!

You found the issue. Your local auto alternator/starter rebuilder may be able to provide a set of brushes. You might even try a NAPA store. These don't have to be exact copies. If they can be mounted securely and are the same size go for it. They are not expensive.

 

[Fireman431]

Re: Ignition Switch Replacement help needed.....PLZ SAVE MY CAMPING TRIP!!

Check the yellow pages under Auto Electrical for any place near you that does starters & alternators. The bushings should be available thru them if you can't find them retail.

 

[SuperYooper]

Re: Ignition Switch Replacement help needed.....PLZ SAVE MY CAMPING TRIP!!

I had my local auto electric order me a new starter for only $100. The engine turns over strong but now I have no spark. I am assuming that has nothing to do with the starter. I took the bottom cable off the distributer and got no spark from that. I have read there is a power pack and a coil pack. I guess I don't know the difference. There are two wires coming from the box the spark plus cable comes out of that goes to the distributer. How do I test that for power?