Impeller maintenance specific question

[keith2k455]

I've read the stickies, manual and threads and am getting ready to change my impeller when I winterize.

This is on my '03 crownline, 5.0 thunderbolt with alpha 1 Gen 2. I plan on just changing the impeller, so I'm dropping the lower unit and not the entire out drive.

I plan to make a stand to help me, but what I need to know is:

Do I need some adhesive for the gaskets and the plate?

Do I need an alignment tool to get this back together?

I think my answer is yes to both, but need help making sure I get the right stuff for this job.

 

[thumpar]

Why not just pull the drive? It will make the job easier. You would have to pull the drive to check the alignment anyway.

 

[keith2k455]

My intent was to save money. I want to replace bellows after next season. My company is doing a major reduction in workforce and it will be a few weeks until I know if I'm lucky or not. I'm keeping opyimistic, but 200 for bellows and gaskets is not something I want to spend right now. I did want to replace the impeller while I'm changing drive oil and I don't want to wait that long to winterize, even in the heated garage.

Are you saying I can't replace the impeller correctly without removing the whole drive? I could have misread something. Honestly, I'm good with engines, fuel systems, etc but thus is my first dive into the drive.

 

[Rick Stephens]

I see more people have/cause problems trying to reinstall the lower to the upper with the upper still installed... Typical one is torn seal on the output side of the upper. It can be done.

Items needed to remove the whole leg and inspect the Ujoints and Gimbal bearing properly are an alignment tool and a $10 gasket set. Alignment tool is between $50 and $150 depending on shipping costs and other tools included with the alignment bar itself. Worth the savings to do it yourself.

Rick

 

[Lukelona]

I did mine by myself, with drive still installed. Separate the two halves by unbolting mounting boltst lower leg. Don't forget the hidden bolts under trim anode.
Don't drop it on your foot! Lol it's pretty heavy, but manageable. I found it easier with it trimmed up, so when breaking it lose it didn't just drop straight down. I had time to pull it out of upper drive.
Hardest part is lining shift arm back up correctly.

Took me 15 mins to pull it, and about 40 mins to replace impeller, inspect everything and 're-install.

 

[JASinIL2006]

My intent was to save money. I want to replace bellows after next season. My company is doing a major reduction in workforce and it will be a few weeks until I know if I'm lucky or not. I'm keeping opyimistic, but 200 for bellows and gaskets is not something I want to spend right now. I did want to replace the impeller while I'm changing drive oil and I don't want to wait that long to winterize, even in the heated garage.

Are you saying I can't replace the impeller correctly without removing the whole drive? I could have misread something. Honestly, I'm good with engines, fuel systems, etc but thus is my first dive into the drive.

You can replace the impeller without removing the whole drive, but it is not hard to remove the drive. You will have to replace the gaskets ? that will be a $10 kit. You do not have to replace the Bellows just because you have pulled the drive.

 

[Fun Times]

It's best to buy a water pump kit so you get all new gaskets as the gaskets and O-rings sometimes can get distorted....Just installing new impellers alone wasn't/isn't always the best idea even though they sell just the impeller separately.

The impeller kit number without buying a new stainless steel housing is OEM part number 47-43026Q06 that will be superseding to 47-8M0100526 when the original number is depleted from inventory. http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-MerCruis...VV1eEN&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...26Q06&_sacat=0

Unless you're experiencing unusual hard to find overheating/water flow issues, adding Merc / Quicksilver Perfect Seal or equivalent Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket found in local auto stores to the base gaskets isn't completely necessary but it can aid in keeping hot exhaust gasses from entering the cooling system. That mentioned, if you just install a new impeller only then it would be in your best interest to use Q.S sealant to avoid potential issues such as this member went through for example, http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...-kit-817275q05
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...n-part-numbers

The impeller kit I recommended without the housing will save you a good $50.00 +. Just hope you don't need a new S.S housing due to running through debris, etc..

Search EBay mercruiser alignment bars as you can find aftermarket ones in the $30.00 range. If that's all you really want to do is replace the impeller and not worry about inspecting the U-joints, bellows, gimbal bearing, greasing the engine coupler while checking engine/gimbal bearing alignment and a host of other small inspections like you should be doing every year or two... then personally I do find it easier to just drop the lower half of the stern drive to change out the impeller for reasons like Lukelona mentions.

Be sure to go into full forward gear no matter how you remove the drive to avoid damage and to make it easier upon re-installation.

Hope you get to keep your job so you can afford to keep doing things the correct way, good luck with everything coming you way.

 

[stonyloam]

Back to the original question: no adhesive and no alignment tool.

 

[keith2k455]

Thanks guys. The boat cools fine and has no problems, but it is 12 yo and I'm sure replacing the impeller is not a bad thing. I do plan on pulling the drive next year, mine has zerk fittings to grease everything, so from the grease standpoint I should be fine. I just didn't plan on buying this tool and waiting for shipping. I also don't want to wait until December to winterize.

I also thought about laying it up without changing the drive oil until spring, but I can see that ending with no maintenance being done for the year. I plan to make a holder that fits over my floor jack, so that should help with removal and install. Then next year when I pull the drive I'll have it.

 

[thumpar]

You can't grease the ujoint zerks without removing the drive. Removing the drive is a 10 minute process and the tool is only $30. It is a lot cheaper than pulling the engine to replace a coupler.

 

[keith2k455]

Hmmm...I actually hadn't given the u joint any consideration because the book said the perma lube u joint doesn't require grease. I thought it was like a sealed wheel bearing.

 

[thumpar]

The ujoints could be permalube but you won't know until you pull the drive. You still should be checking the alignment every other year at least. I change my impeller at the same time and always have a spare on the boat. The bellows don't need to be changed just because you pull the drive. It is 6 bolts on the upper and remove the pin for the trim. Make sure it is in forward. When I had an Alpha I did it multiple times by my self. They are not that heavy.

 

[Scott Danforth]

After 12 years I would change the bellows, impeller, and inspect the gimble bearing

 

[keith2k455]

Really, the two options as I see them this winter are: change impeller and winterize or just winterize and do nothing more. I do want to change the bellows and inspect the gimbal but between parts and the alignment tool I'm not in a position to make that purchase before the winter freeze sets in. I assume to change the impeller and winterize is better than just winterizing.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Winterize motor, pull drive and store in basement to work on over winter