Re: Impeller replacement and key pin 1984 7.5 Merc
Randy, one thing that'll help you is to take a Magic Marker and scribe a line on the driveshaft, above the water pump, to the centerline of the flat spot on the driveshaft. Make sure the impeller key is centered on the flat, and you'll know exactly where the key is when you're inserting the impeller into the pump.
Some folks like to take a couple of very small tie-wraps around the impeller, such that it'll just drop down into the pump cartridge without interference from the impeller vanes. Then just slice-off the tie-wraps afterwards.
Another method is to align the impeller keyway with the key, and turn both driveshaft and impeller clockwise at the same time you're pushing downwards on the impeller.
Such that the driveshaft and impeller stay aligned all the time you're pushing the impeller into the pump. Eventually the impeller keyway will engage the key; then give the driveshaft a bit of a "wiggle" while continuing to push downwards on the impeller. Should go right in!
Usually takes a few times to practice & get the feel for it, 'cause many times you'll get it just a wee bit out of line and push the key away. But when you get 'er just right, it'll go right down. Did 7.5 a few weeks ago and was pleased when it went right down the first time, instead of giving me a fight! Nice when they do that.
Once the impeller is fully into the pump body, spin the driveshaft clockwise (as viewed from the top) and make sure it drives the impeller. That way you'll be certain the key is properly engaged.
Slap 'er together and you're back on the water! Be sure to use some waterproof marine-grade grease on the gearcase mounting studs, that'll ensure the L/U will always drop right down instead of getting seized.
Don't forget to grease the driveshaft and shift shaft splines, but be sure to wipe off any grease that gets on the top of those shafts. A little grease on the copper water supply tube helps it to slide into the rubber pump cover grommet.
HTH.........ed