Inboard vs. I/O vs. outboard

[jam39vw995]

I've read many related posts on the subject.<br /><br />I haven't bought a boat yet but I'm reading and learning everything I can.<br /><br />I'd like to hear some of the pros and cons of inboards, I/O and outboards from those of you with more experience with each.<br /><br />I'm really leaning towards an inboard. The main use for the boat will be skiing, tubing, wake boarding and cruising. I'd also like to use it in the ocean for cruising and fishing.<br />I've looked at a number of boats like Mastercraft, Correct Craft (my favourite) and the ski series and there is a lot of room in these 18-22 footers and some are very well priced.<br /><br />I'm interested in hearing any and all comments.<br /><br />thanks

 

[tylerin]

Re: Inboard vs. I/O vs. outboard

Mastercraft and correct craft are competition ski boats and don't have much wake. They're good for skiing not so good for wakeboarding. They're pretty flat on the bottom. I wouldn't recommend going in the ocean w/ one of these. The boats you like are real single purpose boats. I would strongly recommend something a little more universal

 

[andrewgroup]

Re: Inboard vs. I/O vs. outboard

Certainly a variety of uses. skiing, tubing, wake boarding, cruising and fishing. Can you narrow these down by percentage of usage. My 1969 19' 225hp Tom Sawyer, (DEEEEEEEP VVVVVV) really does well on rough choppy water on ocean like waters. Does great pulling a Skier, doesn't make the best wake for boarders though, Sucks as a Fishing boat.<br />My 1990 Mariah 18' Open Bow shallow draft V makes a OK fish boat with the open bow and the swim platform and cruises well. I Porpoisely leave it on the trailer anytime choppy water is around.

 

[jam39vw995]

Re: Inboard vs. I/O vs. outboard

Thanks for the replies so far.<br />ok, I'll have to evaluate how much I will use it for each thing.<br />It seems to be very hard to find a boat that's good for everything. Our Silverline was good for fishing, wake, tubing and cruising but had a big wake so skiing was a drag.<br /><br />I never thought this would be so hard.

 

[salty87]

Re: Inboard vs. I/O vs. outboard

you'll probably end up looking at more i/o's than anything else. the inboards won't do well with any kind of wave size, unless you're looking to go with the 23' range. they weren't really made for salt water, either. fishing from an inboard isn't too much fun, too. but, the swim platfrom is very handy and can be fished from. obviously, nothing is going to beat an inboard for skiing purposes although an i/o will work fine.<br /><br />i/o's will offer better rough water handling, can pull skiers, and might be better for fishing depending on which ones you look at. some are built more for luxury that versatility. i/o's and outboards are more difficult to climb back into after skiing than inboards, though.<br /><br />maintenance issues also come into play, inboards are fairly easy to work on whereas i/o's are a bit more difficult with outdrives and harder to reach areas.<br /><br />outboards obviously fish well, you can ski but you've got a big motor and prop to deal with when you're getting in and out. in my opinion, outboards do great as long as you stay in the boat, when you start jumping in/climbing out/running a bridle for the ski rope, they aren't as convenient. i've never tried to work on one.

 

[salty87]

Re: Inboard vs. I/O vs. outboard

oh yeah, the competition ski boat makers all have wakeboard specific models now. some of these can handle rough water much better with higher freeboards and deeper v's, not to mention bigger wakes. most of them have internal ballast tanks so you can suck up lake water for a bigger wake and dump it for smaller wakes.<br /><br />mastercraft has a 28' version, even has a head! a twin i/o, of course that'll cost you at least $80k.

 

[KM2]

Re: Inboard vs. I/O vs. outboard

I agree with Salty87 on this one. The I/O is the best compromise if you looking for a boat to do a little of everything. The correct crafts are very nice but I would only consider if you are going to be serious about the sking/wakeboarding.

 

[jam39vw995]

Re: Inboard vs. I/O vs. outboard

Thanks for the feedback. I definately want it to be sea worthy, everyone knows how fast the weather can change whether your on a lake or the ocean and I do like being out in rough water "IF" the boat can take it.<br /><br />Ok, I can narrow down what will work for me. I saw a 1991, 20' Mariah 200zx bowrider for $4995 US, that has a 5.0l merc in it or a 1993, 22' Mariah cuddy mx22c that's $6995US with a 5L merc as well.<br />Something like this is probably what I'll end up with, not this make specifically but I'll find something.

 

[tylerin]

Re: Inboard vs. I/O vs. outboard

Mariah is a good boat but for the size your looking at (20-22)<br /> I would go with a 5.7. Start thinking about what you're pulling her with as well. You're looking at a 3500# boat

 

[airman]

Re: Inboard vs. I/O vs. outboard

You need to consider the whole package, and I think you will likely end up with an I/O because it will be in a good package for you. But you asked about the engines.<br />Inboards: Pro- Cheap. Adapted from truck engines usually, they borrow the technology.<br /> Cheap parts.<br /> Reliable.<br /> Corrosion is fairly easy to control.<br /> Con - Difficult handling at slow speeds and in reverse.<br />Almost all workboats use inboards. They are comparatively cheap and reliable, and nothing complicated hangs overboard to catch stuff. A log strike or a rope will still cause problems, but they are more robust than a leg hanging in the water. Servicing csn be very easy, depending on the installation. Seawater won't leak past the seals into your oil. Transmissions last for a long time and you are unlikely to ever wear one out.<br />Outboards: Pro - Good handling.<br /> Best power to weight (2-stroke).<br /> Can tilt completely out of the water for beaching and mooring.<br /> Although packaging is tight, access to the engine is easy if the boat is out of the water and it is very easy to remove the entire engine for major work.<br /> Take up very little space in the boat.<br /> Con - Expensive.<br /> More vulnerable to damage if you hit the junk that is in our water.<br /> Always raw water cooled.<br /> Prop is closer to swimmers/skiers.<br />I think that if outboards could be bought for a comparable price to inboards and I/O's, they would be all you would see. But you can't buy a 300hp diesel O/B, even 200hp 4-strokes are pretty new.<br />I/O's: Pro - Handles like an outboard.<br /> Doesn't cost much more than an I/B.<br /> Available in high power, 4 stroke, and diesel.<br /> Con - Some installations can make servicing very difficult.<br /> You have an expensive, complicated leg hanging in the chuck all the time. <br /> Log strikes are very expensive.<br /> A seal will eventually fail, allowing seawater to get into the oil.<br /> If the rubber bellows fail, the only things keeping you off the bottom are your bilge pump and the boats floatation. To be fair, the leak usually starts slow but I've made a trip home using the kicker motor and a hand bilge pump. The boat would have sunk if I didn't have a manual pump and the gimbal bearing died too so the main motor couldn't get me home.<br /> If the rubber bellows fail you will be buying new u-joints and a gimbal bearing.<br /><br />Despite all their weaknesses, you will likely end up with an I/O. Store with the leg down, especially in the salt chuck. Tilting the leg up in the water not only hurts the bellows, it puts the zinc out of the water, allowing the leg to corrode. Check the bellows frequently and change them if you see the smallest sign of cracking. Change them every couple of years even if they look good. As stated, the Correct Craft and Master Craft are good ski boats, but lousy cruisers. Georgia Straight is rarely calm enough to enjoy in a flat bottomed boat. The best compromise is a nice 80' yacht with a Mastercraft for a tender. Coal Harbour Marina has a couple you might check out. Or talk to Jimmy Pattison and see if you can borrow the Nova Spirit. It's a pretty good compromise and he's got some jet skis on board too.

 

[jam39vw995]

Re: Inboard vs. I/O vs. outboard

Thanks,<br /><br />I'll be pulling it with our '74 International Series 200 Camper Special. 3/4 ton with 345 v8. This is a "real" truck, not cheap tin you get now a days. <br /><br />With all this talk of power, boat size etc. ie. Boatcephus' thread I thought the 5L would be a bit small for the 22 cuddy. I thought it would be ok for a lighter 20' bowrider, however.

 

[jam39vw995]

Re: Inboard vs. I/O vs. outboard

Airman,<br /><br />Great information, thank you.<br /><br />Ya, I think I'll give Jimmy a call.

 

[biloxiriver]

Re: Inboard vs. I/O vs. outboard

Hey jam39vw995, don't know if you have tired of input yet, but here is one more. I have ran all three, OBs, I/Os, and an IB, and the latter is what I run now and it is my favorite. Yes, there was a "learning curve" when I first got it, particularly backing down and close maneuvering, but I have been very satisfied and have even had it in 5' seas and some pretty rough chops. I prefer older boats though because they tend to be heavier than new ones; have never owned one newer than a 1973 model, and the one I have now is a 1970/71 21' center consol, deep vee, with a 302 IB tunnel drive. The particular model is a Bengal Offshore, made by TigerCraft (no longer in production). It pulls a skier well, makes a great wake (my boats name is "WakZone" because of the wake size)so I assume would do well for a boarder, and is very roomy for fishing. Having experienced the I/Os as well I can only say one thing "money pit". If it wasn't spinning couplings, it was overheating for one reason or another, took constant vigilance to keep operational. Now don't get me wrong, the I/O can also be a very strong runner, and I know many people who run and love them, and even when mine was not giving me grief it was great to operate, they are just a bit more maintenance intensive in my opinion. Whatever you do, do your maintenance, but in the long run, I believe the IB will be a better buy.

 

[jam39vw995]

Re: Inboard vs. I/O vs. outboard

biloxiriver,<br /><br />I like as much input as possible.<br /><br />Thanks

 

[cobra 3.0]

Re: Inboard vs. I/O vs. outboard

Although I agree with biloxiriver's comments as to I/O's being more expensive to maintain, look at the age of the boats he is driving! No kidding the I/O's are exepensive to maintain. Most of I/O's life is behind it at that point...especially in areas where cold winters are short or non-existant(boats get over twice the use)<br /><br />However, you can't argue with the longevity of the inboards and their simpler less expensive designs. The advantages seem more pronounced if saltwater use comes into play. I'd say drive one and compare it to a typical I/O of similar size. If you enjoy the way the inboard handles, go for it.

 

[snapperbait]

Re: Inboard vs. I/O vs. outboard

I see what Jam is looking for... One particular boat comes to mind...<br /><br /> 20' Bertram moppie with a straight inboard which is very similar to Correct craft and mastercraft with the exception of being a deep V and it's as seaworthy as a 20 footer can be...... <br /><br /> Plenty of room, not overly fancy but still nice... The down side is that they are few and far between.. If you did happen to find one, be prepaired to pay dearly... Well worth every penny..

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Inboard vs. I/O vs. outboard

hello<br /> my advice on boat buying is buy a popular model, run it 3-4 years,do the maint and sell it. the depreciation on a new boat is a killer and after 6 years old they are a beast to sell unless you give it away and at the 6 year mark or so, most the expensive stuff crops up. ie rusted timing covers, manifolds, risers and oil pans. and outboards at the 6 year mark start having corrosion degrading of the head gaskets and cooling systems as well as oiling systems. mixing oil in 100 gallon and larger tanks is a foolish game. anyway that is just an opinion<br /> now its time to go fish in my 72 thunderbird with my old 85 120 OMC.<br /> good luck and keep posting

 

[Lou C]

Re: Inboard vs. I/O vs. outboard

Rodbolt--<br />Sounds like you are running an OMC Stringer??<br />I have an 88 Cobra, so far it has not been to bad, just an occasional problem with not wanting to go easily into neutral. <br />I know it is hard to resell boats with OMC drives, are the Cobras really that bad, I have heard they are OK if set up right.<br />As far as straight inboard fishing style boats, I'd love to have a Shamrock, built solid, simple inboard V-8, if you have closed cooling you can run it a good long time. The are REALLY expensive new, and even one as old as my 88 FW runs for around 15K or so. Still I'd love to make one of those my next one.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Inboard vs. I/O vs. outboard

hello LouC<br /> no but I have owened a stringer unit. two if you will consider its my first and last. my 120 is a jonny rude. the salty dawg marina in Manteo has a couple shamrocks for sale. one is a killer deal. low hours fresh water cooling and all the maint records from the time it was new. always kept in a lift or inside.mans wife got cancer and they no longer come to the outerbanks to vacation.<br /> my boat buying/selling reccomendation is based on the average person who wants to keep a warrenty doesnt mind making a few years of payments and realizezs a boat is a lousy investment but a whale of a lot of fun. fun costs. like speed. speed costs money. how fast ya wanna go?<br />that is why I reccomend a popular model for your area. 3-4 years and unload it.<br /> if you dont then you either need to have deep pockets or the ability and facilities to repair it<br />good luck and keep posting

 

[Lou C]

Re: Inboard vs. I/O vs. outboard

Thanx rodbolt, they are really nice boats, a guy here (North Shore Long Island NY) has one at the local boatyard, a nice 20' pilothouse. Prob is they are so much $$ new, and they do hold their value well. The wife will not go for a 15 year old boat that is 15 grand for sure!!<br />I am thinking for my next one another FW but new, like a Freedom 180 outboard, you can get it with the Johnson 150 carb still, since I leave it in the salt on a mooring, I don't really want another sterndrive. <br />BTW, I saw on another board that you can replace a Cobra with a Volvo SX drive with a conversion kit (chang the pivot housing, and add the engine water pump+ volvo cables), I may do that if I can't get Cobra parts anymore and wifey vetos new boat idea!!!!!!