INDMAR Corvette overheating problem, please help

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mjsnow

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Hello
New to the forum, hoping to find someone with some knowledge to help me fix an issue i am having with my boats motor. Apologies for the long post, but for those who like a problem, i am sure you will enjoy!

Details as follows: INDMAR LT1 V8 Corvette motor - 1997 make, 500 running hours. Inboard ski boat, Mid mount.

SYMPTOMS:
- Once the engine has been operating for at least 20 minutes, when brought up to cruising speed from a standing start (such as pulling up a skier) when the engine is under load, the engine temp rises rapidly from 150F (normal operating temp) to ~200F when the management takes over and shuts down the motor.
- The temp can be brought back to normal (equally as rapidly - nearly instantaneously! which i know is not good for anything) by a quick "blip" of the throttle, which appears to restart the cooling.
- The problem does not happen at any speed if the engine is not put under excessive load, ie, i can run it at WOT with no problem so long as i take it there slowly.

WHAT IT IS NOT! I have been over the cooling system and checked / replaced the following parts, none of these have fixed the problem.
- Raw water impeller, replaced (was due anyway), not the problem, good water flow
- Raw water thermostat, replaced also ran without, not the problem
- Cooling circuit, does not appear to have any blockages
- Engine side thermostat, replaced, not the problem, Ran without, NOT OVERHEATING but runs too cold, as expected (~110F), and the EFI management stays in cold start calibration
- Water pump, replaced, was squeaking, thought it could be sucking air through the bearing (cam driven not belt), did not fix the problem although the engine doesn't squeak anymore! (have to take the good with the bad!)

WHAT I THINK THE PROBLEM MAY BE I think i may have done a head gasket. But i am open to other suggestions from anyone who may have a bit more knowledge on the engines. I figure water is pouring into the exhaust (or exhaust into the water) when the engine is under load, creating a hot air pocket under the engine side thermostat which is preventing it from opening and causing the problem. Potentially it is only when under load that this seal is "blowing out", which is why i can run all day so long as i take her to speed slowly. There are no other leaks, could the cooling circuit be sucking air from anywhere else?

CAN YOU HELP?? (PLEASE!) Before heading down the track of tearing the engine apart, i am hoping that i could get some comment on my "diagnosis" and any other potential problems i may have missed. Also keen for some advice on the following:
- Is there any way to confirm this (given that it is an intermittent) prior to pulling the engine apart? Especially with relation to which cylinder bank has the problem.
- Although i do know the common sense answer to this question, am i likely to do the engine any harm running without a thermostat (other than running a bit rich on cool start calibration) to keep the engine cool and not putting it under load. For various reasons, ideally i need to get a few hours out of the engine before i can get this maintenance done.

Apologies agian for the long post. This problem has stumped at least half a dozen marine mechs over here (Australia) and i am keen for resolution.

Cheers Michael S
 

Bondo

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Re: INDMAR Corvette overheating problem, please help

Ayuh,...

Having Never seen your motor,...

If the raw water is getting into the heat exchanger alright,...
Is it being allowed to Leave the system unimpeded,..?? No restrictions on that side,..?? Right,..??

As for the Headgasket,.... Pressurize the closed side of the cooling system,+ Find the Leak that way,...
If there is 1...
 

JustJason

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Re: INDMAR Corvette overheating problem, please help

Sooo.... is this engine all raw water cooled... or is it closed cooling? I didn't quite catch which system you have.
If it is closed cooling.... are you losing antifreeze and adding some as you go along the way?
It does sound like your getting the engine airbound. Wether it's a leak on the intake side of the raw water pump or a head gasket... still sounds like it's airbound.

If you have closed cooling you can get this tool,
http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/head_gasket_or_combustion_leak_test.htm

and it will tell you if you have a head gasket problem or not. I do in fact have the napa version and it works well (other than needing to go out and buy juice, because I never seem to have any)
 

mjsnow

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Re: INDMAR Corvette overheating problem, please help

Thanks for your replies.
Should have clarified the engine is raw water cooled (fresh water only boat), there is no closed loop heat exchanger which makes the diagnosis all that much harder (in this configuration it is very difficult to pressure leak test the cooling circuit)
I think when the thermostat is closed, air is getting into the system somehow and gathering under the thermostat which is the high point in the circuit. this vapour lock is causing the thermostat to stay closed under load and heating the engine rapidly as there is no water in the coolant circuit.
Is there any way to properly diagnose this without ripping off the heads? Could the cause of this vapour lock be from another source?
Cheers
Michael
 

chiefalen

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3,598
Re: INDMAR Corvette overheating problem, please help

You have a riser on the car motor. What mods where done to it for it to in the boat.

Is it a custom manifold??

Ive seen this post somewhere before, where was it ?????
 

JustJason

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Re: INDMAR Corvette overheating problem, please help

You have a riser on the car motor.

Hah???? What makes you say that chief???? The Corvette is the boat (and they do look like little vettes) Has nothing to do with the engine.

The engine is just a GM engine, like every other engine out there, that is marinized by Indmar.
 

Don S

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Re: INDMAR Corvette overheating problem, please help

You can pressure test the engines cooling system by blocking off the hoses that go into the manifolds and risers (if they do, I'm not familiar with those engines) then adapt a fitting to the water intake from the pump. Then pressure test it up to around 15psi.
Did you try the clear hose tests or anything in that overheat diagnosis link I posted earlier?
 

superpop

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869
Re: INDMAR Corvette overheating problem, please help

It is not a corvette boat, he indicated that it is a ski boat. I think he was refering to the fact that the LT1 motor in his boat is the same motor as the Corvette autos of that vintage. The manifold question is valid.
 

chiefalen

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Re: INDMAR Corvette overheating problem, please help

Jason take it easy ok. You quick to jump me and i don't recall every being anything but nice to you, but that can change.

This post i have seen before, where was it original poster, have you posed this question here before.

And to the manifold and riser what are they custom or what ?

You ever pull them?
 

QC

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Re: INDMAR Corvette overheating problem, please help

The Indmar LT1 was indeed an option in Mastercraft's and Malibu's in the late '90s . . .
 

abj87

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Re: INDMAR Corvette overheating problem, please help

Have you verified the overheat condition with an IR gun? Air pocket near the temp sender?
 

chiefalen

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Re: INDMAR Corvette overheating problem, please help

ABJ is right with the gun to check if it indeed running hot, good catch.

But with the t-stat out it's not running hot ?

What is this seal you mention that you keep blowing ?

Not for nothing but was always a dog that corvette lt1 motor.

Friend had it and got rid of the car.
 

QC

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Re: INDMAR Corvette overheating problem, please help

Excellent thread find there Chief :cool:
 

chiefalen

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Re: INDMAR Corvette overheating problem, please help

Thank QC you don't know how much it means, coming from you.

I knew i read about this problem, and it was in the back of my mind, and the solution. Filed it away but i just could not remember where it was.

Good luck man from down under hope it solves it for you !
 

Jeepster04

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Re: INDMAR Corvette overheating problem, please help

Yea, I saw one of those LT1's in a boat this summer. Didnt know as much as I do know or I would of checked it out a bit more.

Bunch of drunk guys got off of it and wanted to check out our boat. Not sure how they made it in to the dock without hitting anything. :rolleyes:
 

chiefalen

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Re: INDMAR Corvette overheating problem, please help

Naa not interested, rather drool over twin diesels or something like that.
 

80MC19Skier

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Re: INDMAR Corvette overheating problem, please help

Greetings, MJSnow,

I couldn't resist replying to your messages regarding your cooling problem, and actually signed up for the iboats.com forum to do so.

As some of the other guys stated, the LT1 is a reverse-cooling flow engine. Since the first automobiles, coolant typically was designed to flow UP through the engine and DOWN through the radiator, so as to use natural convection (many early engines didn't even need water pumps!) Chevrolet introduced the LT1 in 1992 based on the theory of running the cooling backward through the engine, so it went to the heads first, and then circulated downward through the block, and then returned to the radiator. That way, the heads/combustion chambers receive the cooling first, improving cooling efficiency and allowing higher compression ratios. The heads also represented a breakthrough (at the time) in combustion chamber design and efficiency. The 350 cubic inch/5.7 L LT4, an LT1 variant, reached 330 HP (SAE net) in 1996, late in the production.

In the aftermarket, LT1 combustion chamber development has progressed to the extent some of the LT1-family engines are now pushing 500 HP on pump gas. I have two LT1 engines, in stroker form. One, at 383 cubic inches/6.3L, was dyno tested at 479 HP. The other, 396 cubic inches/6.5L, will probably test about 450 HP with its milder cam. I'll admit having an inherent distaste for old-tech pushrod engines (my other cars are Mercedes) but it's difficult to argue with the pushrod performance statistics in recent years.

Enough of all that. A potential problem with reverse-cooling is the formation of steam pockets in the upper parts of the heads/manifolds. Looking at a conventionally-cooled engine again, for a moment: When operating at higher engine speed and loads, the coolant (water) often boils in most engines, but it doesn't matter and goes unnoticed, since the steam is rapidly replaced by cooler water which maintains the temperature near the boiling point, or even below. Visualize a pot on the stove at a gentle boil, in which the steam rapidly returns to a liquid state. Now, in reverse cooling, recall the coolant is flowing downward in the engine, so that flow can be blocked by upwardly-rising steam pockets which grow large and don't dissipate. That's why an essential part of the cooling system is the presence of "bleeder lines" which allow the steam to vent from the upper part of the cooling system, preventing the formation of those steam pockets. In automotive applications, the LT1 bleeder lines feed back into the coolant returning to the radiator. In boat engines, I don't know their exact destination, but it's likely in the exhaust manifolds, where the steam is bled into the discharge water. The lines are actually quite small--about 1/4 inch (6.4 mm)--but that's enough to achieve the necessary result.

Based on the symptoms you described, I expect you'll find blockages in the bleeder lines, possibly bits of the rubber impeller from the raw water pump or some other debris. In my older (non-LT1) ski boat, I must replace the raw water pump once every two years, regardless of operating hours; otherwise, rubber bits off the corners of the impeller are lost into the cooling system, as I discovered when I let it go too long one time. I personally never suffered any ill effects in engine cooling by doing so, but I suspect one/some of those bits might very well be the right size to clog one of the LT1 bleeder lines.

What is the history of your boat, prior to your purchase? Have the heads ever been off, or has a mechanic ever tinkered with the engine? An unaware mechanic might mistakenly consider the bleeder lines to be unnecessary emissions controls or accessories, and take them off and replace them with brass plugs. On the other hand, the overheating might simply represent a clogging issue instead.

Good luck with your diagnosis, and let me know the result.

Cheers,
Jim in Windermere, Florida USA
 
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