Initial Reman Startup

[Twainer]

I am trying to get this newly remanufactured engine up & running. I first tried the trim/tilt so I could change oil in the outdrive before firing it up. Nothing... then went ahead to try & turn it over nothing. The only switch that did anything was bilge pump. So far I have checked all fuses in the dash & a couple in the rear of the boat. All have been good. Have 12V at the dash fuse block, one side of starter solenoid, one side of trim solenoid. I know I have a lot more tracing to do. Anyone know where I should be focusing?

 

[alldodge]

Can you tell us a bit more about the boat before the decision was made to rebuild the motor? Was the boat running but just not that well or something else?

Reason for the question, is we could look at it that the boat was fine until one day something happened, or it could be this is a new to you boat and there could be lots of other areas we need to look at.

 

[MRS]

Did you check the 50 amp. Fuse in the motor compartment?

 

[Scott Danforth]

a few questions in addition to AllDodge's post:

what motor are we working on?
points or electronic ignition?
did you run the motor on a pallet outside the boat prior to installing in the boat?
did the boat motor ever run?
did you clean all the battery cable connections shiney enough to eat off of prior to installing?

 

[Twainer]

Can you tell us a bit more about the boat before the decision was made to rebuild the motor? Was the boat running but just not that well or something else?

Reason for the question, is we could look at it that the boat was fine until one day something happened, or it could be this is a new to you boat and there could be lots of other areas we need to look at.

Boat sat for several years & water got into heads & number 8 cyl. I feel pretty confident wiring back by the engine is correct as I labeled them as I removed them & most of them would only reach & fit back to certain areas. I am less confident with some of the dash wiring as it has been obviously been hacked into over the years.

 

[Twainer]

Did you check the 50 amp. Fuse in the motor compartment?

Yes checked that one 32V 50amp. It is still working but I am ordering another one as it looks like it has had moisture in it over the years & could go at any time.

 

[Twainer]

a few questions in addition to AllDodge's post:

what motor are we working on?
points or electronic ignition?
did you run the motor on a pallet outside the boat prior to installing in the boat?
did the boat motor ever run?
did you clean all the battery cable connections shiney enough to eat off of prior to installing?

1977 351W in a 1978 Mark Twain 18' OMC Bowrider
Prior to sitting for years it was switched over to elc. ignition.
I did not run motor outside the boat. (Engine was purchased as a long block from marineengines4less)
Yes I seen the old motor run years ago.
Brand new battery & yes cables are very clean. As I said in first post I am getting 12V several places in the boat.

Lots more tracing a head of me. May not to get to do anymore until next weekend due to weather & heavy work schedule this week.

 

[Scott Danforth]

rule out the boat. hot-wire 12 volts to the coil + terminal, put the muffs on, and jumper the S and B terminals on the starter. motor will crank and run assuming the dizzy was stabbed in correctly. to shut off, pull the wire you ran to the coil

back trace the ignition wire (purple). make sure your getting 12 volts. from the motor, there is a red wire (+ 12 volts) that goes up to the ignition. the ignition power (purple) comes back to the motor. there are no less than 3-4 conenctions along the way. wire colors are standard. yellow with red stripe is your start signal

 

[CV16]

Before you try to start it change the impeller. Also I would really check all wire connections again. If the only thing that works is the bilge pump, I'd suspect the wiring.

 

[Twainer]

rule out the boat. hot-wire 12 volts to the coil + terminal, put the muffs on, and jumper the S and B terminals on the starter. motor will crank and run assuming the dizzy was stabbed in correctly. to shut off, pull the wire you ran to the coil

back trace the ignition wire (purple). make sure your getting 12 volts. from the motor, there is a red wire (+ 12 volts) that goes up to the ignition. the ignition power (purple) comes back to the motor. there are no less than 3-4 conenctions along the way. wire colors are standard. yellow with red stripe is your start signal

This was kind of my next plan. Do a little more wire tracing & if I come up empty start bypassing & jumping. I am not over confident I do have the dist. stabbed correctly. No.1 cyl. is at the top but not sure on what stroke. It is at the top & timing marks are lined up & rotor is pointing to no. 1 wire. Still could be 180 out?

 

[vasy]

Your motor is not cranking as in the starter is not working or not firing?
Did you set the distributor?
I used the method suggested by few instruction videos by placing a thumb over #1 cylinder plug hole with the other plugs out and spinning the engine by hand (2 people job) and when you feel the thumb being pushed out by the air, it is at TDC on the compression stroke.
Worked really well and easy.

 

[alldodge]

Being a 1977 I would see it as having the below wiring configuration

 

[MRS]

Behind the dash make sure and clean all ground connections, can make a big difference.