Installing a heater (Updated with pics)

[Challenger84]

AllDodge. Thank you for the confirmation.
I'll report back once my mission is accomplished and how it's running.
Appreciate all the help.

 

[Challenger84]

So I was able to install the heater!
Works great!
It's like driving a convertible with thetop down and heat on high.
I wish I would have installed this sooner.
Thank you for all the help everyone

 

[alldodge]

Glad it worked out. Just had a thought, once the weather warms back up you might want to cut the hot water going into it. Could do that with a ball valve on the feed side.

happy holidays

 

[thumpar]

I don't know if it gets cold enough there but if you have to winterize for temps make sure you get those lines drained when you do the rest.

 

[Challenger84]

Glad it worked out. Just had a thought, once the weather warms back up you might want to cut the hot water going into it. Could do that with a ball valve on the feed side.

happy holidays

I did install a ball valve on the inlet and out line lines so i can shut it off completley from the system.

I had trouble at first since the heater core was empty and had just air in the system..
I ran it with the outlet side open until hot water came out to "prime" it and everything worked perfectly after that..
It was getting dark so i didnt have a cance to take the completedd install pictures, But i'll def post some up once i get a chance.

I don't know if it gets cold enough there but if you have to winterize for temps make sure you get those lines drained when you do the rest.

It doesnt get that cold here and i dont have to winterize the boat but great advice for other people looking into do this project.

 

[Challenger84]

Hi guys,

So I've taken the boat out a few more times and noticed it takes quite some time to get the heat up even when engines at running temp..
I wanted to know if maybe I have installed the feeder hose in the side of the thermostat?
I have a picture attached if someone can help me..
Is the water pressure stronger on the other side?

 

[alldodge]

Something that may cause some flow issue is the hose coming from the intake goes up and then back down. Since water is only being moved by the circulation pump it may have more difficulty over coming the additional lift. They may be more flow on the other side but don't think there should be much difference. Maybe a 90 degree fitting will help

Another option would be to do it like Formula does. Formula removes the port side block drain plug and fitting, then installs a pipe to barb hose fitting.

 

[rallyart]

I think the best location for the source water to the heater is just before the thermostat. The warm water is evenly mixed and the restriction before the thermostat gives you the highest relative pressure. The heater won't need too much flow. The hose running up and then down from that fitting should not be a problem as it is full of water on both sides of the high spot and the water on the downside will pull as hard as the water on the upside so it should not take more force. Mine does exactly what yours does. I've added foam pipe insulation on my heater lines to keep more heat in the rubber. I don't know if that makes a difference but it's not expensive.
The most significant difference for the heat level is the RPM that the engine is turning. The water circulation pump on the front of the engine is an impeller design and the flow it can put up goes up dramatically with speed. When you slow the engine to idle there is not enough flow to move water through the heater. On my boat I get lots of heat from 1500 RPM and up. I get nothing below that, except the heat from water already in the heater core. It might be a bit higher RPM with a different setup. If you don't get enough heat at cruise speeds perhaps there is too much restriction in some part of the system. Maybe a kink in a hose or a blockage at the core.

 

[JoLin]

Challenger, I noticed that you used brass valves and (I presume) brass pipe-to-hose fittings. Do you boat in fresh water or salt? If salt, you should replace anything brass, with bronze. Brass and seawater don't go together. Good article here...

http://www.proboat.com/beware-the-brass.html

My .02

 

[Bondo]

So I've taken the boat out a few more times and noticed it takes quite some time to get the heat up even when engines at running temp..
I wanted to know if maybe I have installed the feeder hose in the side of the thermostat?

Ayuh,..... I think rallyart has yer answer,... Run up the rpms, 'n you'll get more heat/ water flow,....

Both the pipe plug by yer finger, 'n the one with the hose, see the exact same water, 'n exact same heat, just before the t-stat,....

Ya got it plumbed right, 'n proper at that point,....

 

[Challenger84]

Thanks for the tips guys..
Just wondering is there a better place for the "exhaust" hose to go besides the water circulation pump?
I did noticed that I get water coming out of both hoses. I've never req'ed the engine while testing it tho.

Challenger, I noticed that you used brass valves and (I presume) brass pipe-to-hose fittings. Do you boat in fresh water or salt? If salt, you should replace anything brass, with bronze. Brass and seawater don't go together. Good article here...

http://www.proboat.com/beware-the-brass.html

My .02

Thanks for the heads up.. I boat in both fresh and salt water. I trailer my boat so when ever I do boat in salt I do a flush everytime to get all the salt out..
I flush the engine for atleast 15-20 to make sure it's all out.