Installing rebuilt Longblock - recommendations

rogerwa · Sep 25, 2008

I have a friend that had his 4.2l v6 on his F-150 crap out on him. I think he just overloaded it one too many times and didn't maintain it very well.

I am helping him find a rebuilt engine and somebody to install it for him. What I am looking for is what else he should have done at the same time. I have done this in the past but it was a long time ago on much simpler engines.

I am already planning on having a new waterpump and clutch installed. What would other things be that would make sense outside of things that are part of the rebuild. Sensors, injectors, ??

He is trying to minimize cost but would want to do things that make sense.

Thanks..

fishmen111 · Sep 25, 2008

Re: Installing rebuilt Longblock - recommendations

If it were me, staying on the cheap, I would make sure it has a new oil pump and timing chain and then bolt everything else back up. If it worked before, it should work now. Personally, I like to at least replace the fuel pump, water pump, alternator, the entire ignition system and check the heads, but then the prices start to add up. Do you know the current motor is not rebuildable? If not, since you are going to pay someone to install a new one anyway, you might want to get him to tear it down for a quick look/rebuild.

Bob_VT · Sep 26, 2008

Re: Installing rebuilt Longblock - recommendations

Check the local parts stores and dealers for remanufactured engines...... they usually come with a warranty too. I put a remanned I-6 in my Ford years ago and it was a top notch motor. It came with a new oil pump and I threw in a new water pump too. The price was reasonable too.

Pascal · Sep 26, 2008

Re: Installing rebuilt Longblock - recommendations

You didn't say how old the truck was or how many miles or much about how it was used.

A long block from a reputable rebuilder would include a new oil pump.

Back when the fuel pump was a diaphram type on the side of the block, replacement was a requirement to validate many warrenties. Now, with most pumps being electric and in the tank, that is not as critical.

The injectors would be replaced on an individual basis. Just make sure that your guy checks them and the fuel filter.

New plug's are a definite must.

I agree with your intention to replace the water pump. At the same time have a look at the tensioner and Idler pulley bearings.

If you don't want to go for all new rad hoses, have the closest look at the lower rad hose. It is the hardest to change after everything is back together.

Check the rad. What did the old antifreeze look like? Are the fins all still attached to the tubes? Clean out the overflow tank so you can see the level of the NEW antifreeze. A new thermostat is also a must.

Most shops just throw the old starter back on after an engine replacement but what better time to evaluate the starters condition with respect to brushes, bushings and solenoid. Better to replace now, if needed, when it is out, rather than in a few days/months with all the inconvenience associated in a future failure.

A new engine may increase the load on the old starters operation as well with the tighter clearances, etc.

All this is, of course, up to the owner but those are the concerns that I would explain to them.

moreham · Sep 26, 2008

Re: Installing rebuilt Longblock - recommendations

engine manufactures require a new thermostat, a replaced water pump, a new or verified radiator, if you do not replace it must be tested by a rad shop, all this must be done and recorded for warranty on the engine if something were to happen to the engine under warranty you will need proof that these were replaced at the time of the install.

I would replace ALL hoses, belt/s, radiator, water pump, spark plugs and wires, and air filter. That's about all that will be necessary for a reliable engine swap.

rogerwa · Sep 26, 2008

Re: Installing rebuilt Longblock - recommendations

Good point on the starter, that is the kind of thing that would be a good catch.

I will also validate the radiator scenario.

The one thing I worry about is that I do not know what caused the lockup in the first place. I am guessing that he just abused (low oil or something) it and it just gave way. I think I may pull the codes that are there just to see if there are any clues. I am not engine forensic scientist, but we don't want ot put something in that is just going to fail again.

I know he used to haul a full load of firewood in the bed and then a load in the trailer and it woud be dragging.

moreham · Sep 26, 2008

Re: Installing rebuilt Longblock - recommendations

how many miles were on the old engine?
normally with the 4.2 v6 ford if they have been taken care of will run around 200,000 miles, but they are great about sluging up if the oil has not been changed on a regular basis and that's the biggest problem with those engines.. sludge then they start knocking, that leads to a rod are seizing

rogerwa · Sep 26, 2008

Re: Installing rebuilt Longblock - recommendations

I would guess you are right on.. It was making a knocking sound shortly before it hatched. I would put the mileage in the 120K range but that is a guess.

Pascal · Sep 26, 2008

Re: Installing rebuilt Longblock - recommendations

you can find the engine rebuilders standards here.

http://www.aera.org/consumer.aspx

They list standards for overhaul, instalation and break-in.

Yes, there is a statement about replacing or verifying the rad condition. Each rebuilder will have their own warrenty stipulations.

There are lots of other usefull engine information tools on that site as well. Some you will need to pay for and some are free. Like this one......

Can anyone tell me what vehicle uses a cylinder head with casting #355719? It is findable!!!

enjoy!!

moreham · Sep 26, 2008