Intrepid Question

[SS MAYFLOAT]

Wifes 97 Intrepid started overheating. I changed the stat. Seemed to be fine. On her way home from school, the temp shot up. She pulled off (like I told her to) and it cooled down. She then went about another 1/2 mile and she had to pull over again. I went to her rescue. Let off the pressure at the resivoir since the radiator has not cap.<br /><br />Water and steam bubbled out like crazy. But hey, it was hot. I had her start the engine and added water. I took it like it was out. I bled the air out of the stat housing until I got a good stream of water.<br /><br />I drove it home. Went about 2 mile in-town traffic of starting and stopping. Last light before my house, the temp went from running at half to immediately up to almost the red zone. Light turned green and I nailed the gas. Within about 200 feet, the temp guage dropped back to half. House is about half mile from the light. Pulled into the drive and let it idle. Stayed at half on the guage.<br /><br />Had ms mayfloat take it to the radiator shop today. They did a CO test and it showed it having exhaust gases in the coolant. Yep,,,,blowed head gasket.<br /><br />Now this thing is going to be a pain. Its a 3.5 twin overhead cam. I need the special tool that locks down the cams so they won't be out of time. <br /><br />Does anyone know where to get special tools. I tried everyone but the dealer and NAPA. They were closed by the time I was able to make calls.<br /><br />I may end up making my own. They look like to pieces of bar stock 3/8 x 1 x 4. There is two dowels that stick out that align into two holes in the cam. Then on each end of the piece is a hole to bolt it to the back of the head. Looks simple to make. Just an extra thing to take up time in making. Still would rather buy them.<br /><br />Has anyone else heard about these engines having problems of blowing head gaskets? And how does one figure out which head has the bad gasket? The car runs great, no missing, no sputtering, and idles quietly. It figures that this would happen. We just made the final payment a couple of weeks ago I'm and wife is

 

[dolluper]

Re: Intrepid Question

Do a compression check,do you have a angle grinder wheel lock tightener,or ac clutch tool<br />intakes yes,headgaskets rare

 

[SS MAYFLOAT]

Re: Intrepid Question

dolluper, I've got one for the angle grinder. Will those pins line up on the cam?<br /><br />I hate to go out and get another payment. Thinking about renting her a car for a week or two. Still be a lot cheaper than a car. I might start to tear it down tomorrow after work.<br /><br />My shop manual shows the pieces that lock the cam in place. They don't look too hard to make. If I can't find any locally tomorrow, I'll probably make my own. I will use a marker to mark the belt on all the pulleys also to make sure everything is where it should be. Sorta back up plan.<br /><br />Hopefully the compression tester will show the weak cylinder. With it running so smooth, it makes me wonder if I will find a difference. And if not, is there any other way? Maybe use an air fitting that is adapted for the spark plug hole. Pump air into the cylinder and see if I get air bubbling out the resivoir? Whada ya think?<br />Thanks

 

[rwise]

Re: Intrepid Question

sounds like what my x-wifes LHS was doing. it was a bad fan and a blown fuse! just a thought!

 

[dolluper]

Re: Intrepid Question

You only need 1 pin in and bolted cam won't move,drill the handle for the bolt,Rwise brings a good point up is your cooling fan working,relays are a weak point,you can jump the fan with a wire from pos ++++ post of battery,leave connector on fan and touch pos lead on fan to see if fan works<br />Can you remember hearing it run.The compression test should show a break in the gasket,if good compression check intake gaskets closly,or water pump leech hole,you have to find the cause of coolant loss if not gaskets

 

[SS MAYFLOAT]

Re: Intrepid Question

Water pump was replaced 3 years ago ($550) with the timing belt. The radiator shop checked the coolant with a chemical and it showed it had combustion gases in it. After it runs so long, the excess pressure vents out the overflow on the resivoir causing the leak.<br /><br />All fans work as advertised. I have always had a leak even before the water pump was changed. That is why I had it changed and it still leaked. I've been told that there is an "O" ring on the intake that is notorious for leakage. It only leaked after the engine cooled down. In the winter it would leak more. But this time it shows carbon monoxide in the coolant. Not good. I've asked other mechanics about that test and they all said it points ot a blowed head gasket, warped head, and or a cracked head.<br /><br />I'm going to do a compression check tonight on it after work. I just stopped in to let the dog out for his mid morning dump.<br /><br />Thanks for info, I'll keep you posted what I find.<br /><br />BTW, I was thinking that only one pin should hold it. Do you know if I have to remove the rockers to remove the head? Hopefully I don't have to.

 

[dolluper]

Re: Intrepid Question

Try this site click on engine<br /> http://www.allpar.com/

 

[SS MAYFLOAT]

Re: Intrepid Question

Well,,,the compression check shows one cylinder down a bit.<br /><br />Looking at the front:<br />Left side #1 is 140 #2 is 150 #3 150<br />Right side #1 is 150 #2 is 150 #3 150<br /><br />I only measured with 2 compression strokes.<br /><br />So I would guess the one with the 140 is my culprit.. It still sucks....

 

[dolluper]

Re: Intrepid Question

Was the plug in that cylinder a bit white coated' or super clean or did it look like the rest tan or greyish How did it compare to the rest is the question

 

[SS MAYFLOAT]

Re: Intrepid Question

dolluper, that plug looked just like the others. The middle cylinder on the left bank, that plug looked a little different than the others. I know I have never changed the plugs in it since we got it 5 years ago. Going to change them out and put on some new wires.<br /><br />Got the intake off and found that one of the intake gaskets around the front right bank water passage was deteriorated. So now I know where my slow leakage came from. I'm still going to pop off that left bank head. Top end gasket set is $125. <br /><br />Guess ms mayfloat has talked me into getting her a 2dr Explorer. There goes my 1 ton truck next spring I'm glad she only works about 4 miles away from the house. So gas won't be much of a problem.

 

[dolluper]

Re: Intrepid Question

Here's some help from the site above on "intakes"3.5 engine<br />The original gasket tends to crack and leak at about 50 to 75K miles. This creates a masive vacuum leak and the engine will run rough and skips . It only needs to be replaced when it leaks but it happens often. I wrote these instructions for a person who found me on the board so I wrote them like an article and figured you could use them.<br /><br />PartsIntake Manifold gaskets(lower)<br /><br />Air plenum gasket (upper intake) <br />2 - Fuel rail gaskets <br />Tube of RTV silicone <br />ProcessStart the engine and remove the fuel pump relay (while the engine is running) to relieve any fuel pressure from the system <br />Drain the cooling system by opening the drain 1 turn only <br />Remove the upper radiator hose <br />Remove the engine cover from the top of the intake plenum <br />Disconnect the AIS motor , TPS , and MAP sensors electrical connectors <br />Remove the two 15mm head bolts on either side of the intake plenum that attach it to the stiffening brackets <br />Disconnect the vacuum lines from both ends of the intake plenum and from the throttle body's <br />Remove the fresh air intake ducts from the throttle body's <br />Remove the PCV hose from the PCV valve <br />Remove the EGR tube mounting bolts that attach it to the intake plenum (you can leave the tube connected to the EGR valve) <br />Remove the center attaching bolts holding the air plenum to the lower intake manifold <br />Remove the air charge temperature sensor electrical connector and the MTV vacuum hose (both located towards the centerline of the air plenum) <br />While leaving the throttle cables connected you can lay the air plenum on the top of the drivers side fender (be sure to use a fender cover) <br />Disconnect the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator and remove the six 10mm head bolts that secure the fuel rails in place (Do Not remove the two 7mm head bolts from the fuel injector locking plates) . Look at the fuel lines at the rear of the fuel rails , you will see a bracket holding the lines together . Remove the 5/16 head bolt from the bracket and remove the single 10mm head bolt that holds the bracket to the rear water tube , now you can lift the fuel rail and swing it out of the way without disconnecting the fuel lines <br />Remove the two heater hoses from the rear water tube <br />Remove the eight 13mm head bolts from the lower intake manifold and lift the manifold <br />Now you will need to clean all the gasket surfaces Use a skin coat of RTV silicone on both sides of the water passage ports (outer most holes) and put the new lower intake gaskets into place <br />Hand tighten the 13mm head intake bolts and Torque the bolts , starting from the center and working your way out in a circular pattern <br />Torque these bolts in a few small increments until they have reached 250 inch pounds of torque <br />Note: Be careful when handling the fuel rail as not to put excessive force on it at any time<br /><br />Note: When installing the intake air plenum , be sure to catch the four center bolts and the two side bolts (stiffener brackets) before tightening , The center bolts should be torqued to 250 inch pounds .The fuel rail bolts should be torqued to 100 inch pounds .

 

[SS MAYFLOAT]

Re: Intrepid Question

Cool, Thanks dolluper. I got the intake removed last night. The gasket looked good, but then the engine ran great....just would over heat afte awhile.<br /><br />Going to go get the mrs another car tonight so I won't have time to work on it. Wished my garage wasn't full of stuff.<br /><br />Thanks again,,,,BTW that site has some cool info and history.

 

[dolluper]

Re: Intrepid Question

When you say right bank that's from the drivers seat,that would make it from the front left side where the comp was low right right?????If so I'm leaning to the cause of your overheating and comp loss as they are bad on intake gaskets,stock ones forsure,cost cutting measures or something.Some real sharpee's hang around that site good one to bookmark.If you do the head gasket atleast you will know your motor much better

 

[dolluper]

Re: Intrepid Question

I'm was the intake gasket bad or not,in one post it was in another it wasn't.You also said the waterpump leaks even after it was fixed now I'm really

 

[SS MAYFLOAT]

Re: Intrepid Question

Let me clear things up. When the car started leaking coolant, Pep boys changed the water pump because they said it was it that was leaking. It still didn't fix the problem. Then they wanted a ton of more money. The gasket on the intake on the drivers side was leaking from the water jacket to the outside, (found that out last night) not into the intake. All compression on the cyls. on the the drivers side all had 150 psi on the compression test. It was the passangers side front cyl that had the 140.<br /><br />The coolant system would pressurize after about 3 or 4 minuets of run time. A mechanic said that it shouldn't be pressurizing that fast for a cold engine. He also said it sounds like a bad head gasket or a crack. Thanks for the help, it is appreaciated very much.