Johnson 200HP no start.

[peacekeeper6]

Picked up a set of johnson outboards. I am trying to get them to run on the stand first before the boat. I hooked the harness up and cant seem to get the eengine to fire. I set up the gas to what i think is the input. But it could be some sort of over flow.It leaks and is plastic and looks cheaply made. Is there some sort of swtich i am over looking? there are two harness's but i asume one is for the trim and tilt.They are 1990 outboards.

what wire is this?

i assume this is the fuel inlet, but this seems to be leaking fuel. please let me know what the lower part of the pic is.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: Johnson 200HP no start.

I am unsure of your year and am unsure, but I believe you should have 2 fuel pumps, the fuel supply will split and go to each of them. Check the spark and compression first and let us know the results. There are many good threads in the FAQ about "Awakening a sleeping outboard " that you should read. A manual is also a must , especially with an unfamiliar engine, you didnt say the years, but check ebay or ken cook. Note: If the engine has spark with the spark plugs out but not with them installed, the timer base is likely weak or the engine is not spinning fast enough. See # 6 and #8.

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:

1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a fault, check the key switch, harness and shift switch.
2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier.

3. Check the stator resistance. You should read about 500 ohms from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire.
4. Check the DVA output from the stator. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire (while connected to the pack) on each bank.
5. Check the timer base’s resistance from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires. Reading should be 10-20 ohms (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics Blue Timer Bases).
6. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires (while connected to the pack) is needed to fire the pack.
7. Check the DVA voltage on the white wire to engine ground. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more (while connected to the pack). If the reading is low, disconnect the trigger wires from the pack and recheck the white terminal on the pack. If the voltage jumps up to an acceptable reading, the timer base may have a problem in the internal wiring (possibly a thin spot in the insulation on one wire).
8. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Johnson 200HP no start.

That motor has only one pump. It sure looks like you're pointing to the "oil in" nipple. There are 3 nipples on the bottom of the pump. The "oil in" nipple is for 5/16 hose. The "fuel in" nipple is in the middle. The pulse line is the other nipple. The top nipple is "fuel / oil out" (going to the carbs).

 

[peacekeeper6]

Re: Johnson 200HP no start.

wow how confusing. so that cheap pieice of plastic is the oil nipple, and th eother hose is the fuel... in the rear? PS they are 1990s. anyone know what that wire is?

 

[peacekeeper6]

Re: Johnson 200HP no start.

That motor has only one pump. It sure looks like you're pointing to the "oil in" nipple. There are 3 nipples on the bottom of the pump. The "oil in" nipple is for 5/16 hose. The "fuel in" nipple is in the middle. The pulse line is the other nipple. The top nipple is "fuel / oil out" (going to the carbs).

i looked there are only two nipples on teh bnottom, one is going to the innner part of the motor. the other is freee.

 

[peacekeeper6]

Re: Johnson 200HP no start.

this motor really has me stumped. I tried everything i could think of last night. Compression is an even 95-97 all the way accross. But i pulled a plug and grounded it out and am not receiving any spark. Maybe i am just missing something where would you guys start? Could there be something to do with the neutral switch? i putt he drive into neautral with my hand on the power head.also my testing battery is a car battery, would this be sufficient enough to produce the spark i need? when i hook the multimeter to the wires it produces .10V of spark. i assume that is weak spark vs. no spark.

 

[peacekeeper6]

Re: Johnson 200HP no start.

ttt

 

[red boat]

Re: Johnson 200HP no start.

Snake that wire you are holding goes under the ground lug. Is the safety lanyard attached? Check for spark by disconnecting the red barrel plug. With the plug disconnected you can turn it over by jumping between the red wire and the yellow wire on the solenoid.

 

[peacekeeper6]

Re: Johnson 200HP no start.

hey red thanx, where is the ground lug? i will try that thanx!

 

[peacekeeper6]

Re: Johnson 200HP no start.

how many kill wires are going to the cdi?

 

[peacekeeper6]

Re: Johnson 200HP no start.

ok, unblugged both sets of yelow blacks on top of the cdi, unplugged the red harness, tried gettign spark. nothing.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: Johnson 200HP no start.

Before we go any further, are you saying there is no spark on a particular cylinder , or on any of them at all? Have you spark tested all the cylinders? Is a complete bank of cylinders (port or starboard) not firing, or no fire on both banks? Do you have an inline spark tester to measure the jump? The spark should jump a good 7/16 of an inch on you motor with a strong blue ZAP!!!

 

[peacekeeper6]

Re: Johnson 200HP no start.

i tested both banks, 4 out of the 6 so far have no spark. does anyone have the coil abd cdi ohm procedure? i figure i can start testing things that are good and go from there.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: Johnson 200HP no start.

Just try switching the coil from a known good cylinder with spark. If the problem follows the coil, replace it.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: Johnson 200HP no start.

Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below for each bank:

Wire Color : Check to Wire Color : Resistance: DVA Reading

Brown wire: Brown/Yellow wire 900-1100 (35 amp) 150V or more Connected
Orange: Orange/Black: 93-103 OEM: 12-24V Connected
Orange Orange/Black :45-55 CDI: 12-24V Connected
White wire: Purple wire : (a) :0.6V or more Connected
White wire: Blue wire : (a) :0.6V or more Connected
White wire: Green wire : (a) :0.6V or more Connected
White wire: Purple wire 2nd connector : (a) : 0.6V or more Connected
White wire :Blue wire 2nd connector : (a) : 0.6V or more Connected
White wire :Green wire 2nd connector: (a) :0.6V or more Connected
White wire: Black/White wire 2nd connector: 215-225: Not Applicable

(a) Use a comparison reading as different brands of meters will give different readings. The typical range is 1M to 5M ohms. As long as you have approximately the same ohm reading on all six tests and the correct output with the DVA meter, the Timer-Base should be good. The exception would be if one of the scr?s inside the Timer-Base is breaking down while the engine is running. This can be found indexing the flywheel and checking the timing on all cylinders. If the readings are off, reverse the meter leads and retest to see if the readings are corrected.

 

[peacekeeper6]

Re: Johnson 200HP no start.

i am starting to think that my engines are after 91, both manuals i have say i should have 2 cdis, one for each bank. how accurate is this information? i only have one on top.

 

[peacekeeper6]

Re: Johnson 200HP no start.

Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below for each bank:

Wire Color : Check to Wire Color : Resistance: DVA Reading

Brown wire: Brown/Yellow wire 900-1100 (35 amp) 150V or more Connected
Orange: Orange/Black: 93-103 OEM: 12-24V Connected
Orange Orange/Black :45-55 CDI: 12-24V Connected
White wire: Purple wire : (a) :0.6V or more Connected
White wire: Blue wire : (a) :0.6V or more Connected
White wire: Green wire : (a) :0.6V or more Connected
White wire: Purple wire 2nd connector : (a) : 0.6V or more Connected
White wire :Blue wire 2nd connector : (a) : 0.6V or more Connected
White wire :Green wire 2nd connector: (a) :0.6V or more Connected
White wire: Black/White wire 2nd connector: 215-225: Not Applicable

(a) Use a comparison reading as different brands of meters will give different readings. The typical range is 1M to 5M ohms. As long as you have approximately the same ohm reading on all six tests and the correct output with the DVA meter, the Timer-Base should be good. The exception would be if one of the scr?s inside the Timer-Base is breaking down while the engine is running. This can be found indexing the flywheel and checking the timing on all cylinders. If the readings are off, reverse the meter leads and retest to see if the readings are corrected.

what is the OEM? where are the reisistances? i got my manual but i cant find all these wires. Like i said i am starting to think i have a different motor, where are the ID plates?

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Johnson 200HP no start.

The 3 liter open deck motors were all the same, including ignition, from 1988 to 1992. The only difference being some connectors on some wires. They all had the single power pack at the top of the block behind the flywheel.

 

[peacekeeper6]

Re: Johnson 200HP no start.

my seloc manual says that all motors had two CDIs, why is this?

 

[peacekeeper6]

Re: Johnson 200HP no start.

ok lets start this way, what things would cause no spark on all cylinders? i know the CDI, Stator, Trigger, Lanyard wires, anything else? i will just test every single one of the components that gives me no spark on all cylinders. Would using a car battery that is fully charged create my problem?