Re: Johnson carb vs ether
Pete..... I noticed that you have mentioned that the ether you used has "upper cylinder lubricant". Frankly I've never heard of that quality. The usual ether that the majority of us have come across has no lubricating qualitiies, and the use of it usually results in scored piston skirts etc. Hence, we avoid and do not recommend spraying anything into the carburetor throat except premixed (50/1) fuel.
That engine (I believe it is a 1999 6hp Johnson?) was manufactured some years after I retired so I'm really not familiar with the design of the carburetor excepting that I can say with confidence that it does have a fixed high speed jet which would be located at the bottom center portion of the float chamber. It may be within the float chamber OR it may simply be in the extended lower portion of the upper body.
The needle on the left side of the carburetor...... If it actually screws into the upper body and has a point of sorts on the end of it, then that would be the slow speed needle valve which would adjust the fuel flow at idle (low rpms). If on the other hand, it simply butts up against a stop bracket and its operation causes a lever to stop at a certain point, then it would simply increase or decrease the rpms to wherever one would want it set at a dead idle.
Exactly where that needle valve would be set if it regulates fuel flow is a unknown to me BUT the following pertains to previous models, say up to 1992 and these instructions may prove to be useful to you.
I'd suggest that you remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor using a complete carburetor kit. You may find the kit on this site, at your local dealership, or at NAPA.
(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)
Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.
Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.
Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.
Note: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.
When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
Good luck.
http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store
