Johnson QD15 extremely hard to pull start

[cajuncook1]

Re: Johnson QD15 extremely hard to pull start

If, the flywheel was damage, then you can get another for a decent price. One of us can point you in the right direction to outboard scrap yard or used parts supplier.

But, get those pictures posted and the guys can help determine if you have a problem or not.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: Johnson QD15 extremely hard to pull start

May not be able to see any damage at all. I have had a flywheel that looked fine, but when you torqued it down, it locked up the mag plate as the taper was spread and it was droppin too low. Took me a while to figure that one out, lol.

 

[Kpowell3]

Re: Johnson QD15 extremely hard to pull start

Hey guys,
Sorry I have been smashingly busy at work so I have just been able to get back with you. I figured out that one of the coil wires was the culprit and in turn causing the very hard starting condition, it also managed to peel the "new" coil's wire back enough to have it short out. I lightly wrapped the wire with electric tap and then put shrink wrap tubing over it and it seems to look good and i'm getting bright blue spark. I fired the engine up yesterday night and noticed no water shooting out of the exhaust and the engine was not staying running for more than a few seconds so I shut it down and tore the lower unit off and discovered the pin the was in the shaft to turn the impeller was no where to be found so I made up a new one and put it in there and am going to go pull her over again to see if water pumps. Do you think the heat did some damage?(no thermostat on this old thing) Do you think the heat is why it shut down so quickly? Thanks again guys for helping me fix my mistakes,

Kpowell

 

[HighTrim]

Re: Johnson QD15 extremely hard to pull start

It would not overheat in a few seconds.

Still sounds like there may be an ignition gremlin.

I would get an inline spark tester so you can watch the spark while the motor runs to see if it is failing, or an inductive timing light.

 

[cajuncook1]

Re: Johnson QD15 extremely hard to pull start

I would get a stainless steal pin and put it in the drive shaft hole. The pins that come with the impeller are made of stainless steal. It needs to strong and hard, because if it bends and gives while you are running and you don't notice, the impeller will not be able to force water up the water tube to the power head. Then you will get a severe over heat situation, power head seize, and thus damaging the pistons, cylinder walls and piston rings.

I doubt seriously the motor over heated with it running a less than few seconds. Make sure you have you have water in the barrel above the water pump area of the lower unit. About 2 to 3 inches above the water pump area and below the exhaust relief hole in the exhaust housing.

If, you are using that old impeller that you got with the motor, I would seriously get a new one with a pin. Using an old impeller that may fail on your out on the water is just asking for trouble and a waste of a motor and your hard spent time and money.


As for as why it keep cutting out is probably a fuel delivery issue.

IF, this motor has not been converted over to a fuel pump system, then your motor runs off a pressure tank system

- make sure you have replaced the fuel lines going from the exhaust manifold nipple and the carburetor bowl to the male fuel connector. Any auto parts store will have fuel hoses 3/16 ID. Get out about 2 ft. It will be more that what is needed for the job, but it is always good to have extra in case of screw ups. The fuel hoses should be ethanol resistant and please don't use the vacuum hoses.
(Make sure the exhaust manifold nipple from the crank case is connected to the air portion of the male connector and the hose coming from the carburetor is going to fuel labelled portion of the male fuel connector.)

- You will need to clean the fuel filter in glass carburetor bowl. Chances are it is clogged up with old oil and varnish from sitting. This can certainly cause a fuel delivery issue. The filter is made of a porous stone material. Soak it in a cup of 1/2 strength PineSol and water. Let it sit for a hour or so and rinse it off. If you have access to a air compressor, blow it out with compressed air. You will see the water and junk that comes out of that filter.

- While you are at the auto parts store, get a small sheet of rubberized cork gasket material. You will need that to make a replacement gasket for the glass carburetor bowl. Use the old gasket as a stencil or if the old gaslet breaks up because it is hard and brittle then use the glass carb bowl to make the outer diameter circle for the gasket and place the filter in the middle the circle and trace with a marker to make the inner cut out circle. It is easy and you may have to make some slight adjustments to get the right fit.

- inspect the hose going from the tank to female fuel connector. If it is really stiff and has some cracks it will need to be replaced. You can replace it with Sierra or OMC double fuel line( at about to 2 or 3 dollars a foot) or just get 10 to 12 feet of plain old 3/16 or 1/4 ID fuel line that is alcohol resistant. Just half of the length of tubing to make both the air line and fuel line. Make sure that each tubing is connected correctly to the air line of the fuel connect to the air nipple on the fuel tanks. Same directions for the fuel side.
( You can use some sort of tape or shrink tubing at different points to keep the tubing together and manageable.)

- Once you have pumped up fuel using the primer button and you see fuel in the carburetor bowl, then start up the motor and see how she runs. Starting the motor should pressurized the tank. You will also want to take a rich soapy wet cloth or sponge and squeeze over the tank's metal bracket that covers the diaphragm and gasket to see if there is leakage. Kind of like checking for air leaking from a tire. It will bubble up from where it is leaking. Only do the outer diameter of the metal bracket. If it is leaking then you will have replace the tank gasket and diaphragm.

OMC Johnson Evinrude Mile Master 2 Line Pressure Gas Tank Gasket Kit | eBay



- You should probably change the o-rings in the female fuel connect. Chances are they are hardened and will allow air leakage and or fuel leakage, thus causing fuel delivery issues.

1950's OMC 2 Line Pressure Gas Tank Connector O Rings 301824 | eBay

 

[cajuncook1]

Re: Johnson QD15 extremely hard to pull start

[highlight]Make sure these are your beginning carburetor settings:[/highlight]

These are going to be the initial settings for the carburetor for starting purposes. Your will later fine tune the settings.

Facing the carburetor you will notice (top) slow speed/idle knob and the (bottom) high speed needle and knob

- Top needle is your slow idle needle. You will gently turn in (clockwise) until the needle is gently seated..please don't force. Once seated, you will turn out (counter clockwise) the slow idle needle 1 1/2 turns. Leave it there for the time being.

- Bottom needle is your high speed needle. You will gently turn in (clockwise) until the needle is gently seated..please don't force. Once seated, you will turn out (counter clockwise) the slow idle needle 3/4 to 1 turn. Leave it there for the time being. [/size]

(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves) ****This quote was modified for better understanding and some clarification for a novice****

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently (turn needle clockwise), then open 1 turn out(counter clockwise). Top slow speed = seat gently(turn needle clockwise), then open 1-1/2 turns out (counter clockwise.

Once you have adjusted the idle/slow speed needle and the high speed needles, then snug up/ tighten (packing nuts) part numbers 77 and 84 with 7/16 open in wrench enough to feel resistance when you turn the needles, but not too much where it makes it very difficult to turn the needles by hand.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

[highlight]NOTE: These settings should be done a large test barrel or on the boat in the water/lake!! It best to do these adjustment on the boat in the lake or on commercial size test tank. (You can damage your motor running it wide open in a small test barrel.)
[/highlight]

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn in (clockwise), waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out (counter clockwise) the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turn in (clockwise), start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn (counter clockwise). Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

This is for 1955 QD16 10hp Johnson, but represents the same configuration:

 

[Kpowell3]

Re: Johnson QD15 extremely hard to pull start

Thanks for all the useful information, you guys are great
The impeller is now installed and pumping water, but i'm not sure if my pumping issues are solved. At the top of the lower unit where the unit physically bolts to the exhaust housing a lot of water is spraying out. I was thinking that perhaps the top of the lower unit is not surfaced perfectly. Could I make a gasket to put here? would that be smart? I would ensure the gasket does not enter the water hole and would be heat resistant. Should I try to resurface the face of the lower unit? after I make sure the engine runs with no heating issues(darn no thermostat!) I will set the carb up according to these specs listed here! thanks guys! can't wait to start on the paint after I get the engine running right,
Thanks!

Kpowell

 

[HighTrim]

Re: Johnson QD15 extremely hard to pull start

That will be under the water anyways. It is just spent cooling water, no worries.