jonhson 75 stinger, and powershift 2 controls

[vergil]

got some ?s on the wiring the powershift 2, i have written everything down and made a diagram, but is there an actual diagram to make sure i dont screw it up when i put it back together. i dont have the manual for it. (planning to get 1 soon) this would be for the wiring harness to the ig. switch, choke etc.. also what is the round green thing in the box for? it had 2 wires hooked to it, a purple wire and brown, thanks

 

[joey nathan]

Re: jonhson 75 stinger, and powershift 2 controls

Vergil,
I have cousin to this engine, a '75 70HP Evinrude. What you're looking at is the overtemp alarm. It is simply a small buzzer that is designed to sound when engine temp exceeds 140 degrees F. Grounding the tan wire should cause it to sound if it still works...

 

[boobie]

Re: jonhson 75 stinger, and powershift 2 controls

When you get a manual, get the OEM factory service manual. The rest of them are junk.

 

[jtexas]

Re: jonhson 75 stinger, and powershift 2 controls

Click on the "top secret file" at the top of this forum, then click on "Ignition wiring diagrams". The third image shows your engine wiring harness.

 

[vergil]

Re: jonhson 75 stinger, and powershift 2 controls

as far as the over heat alarm where would that be located? where would the brown wire be hooked up to, another? where is the water pump? and should this motor have a **** hole?

 

[jtexas]

Re: jonhson 75 stinger, and powershift 2 controls

Your manual will show the placement of the warning horn in the control box, also which terminal to hook up to brown, and which to purple. I believe polarity matters (purple is +, brown is -). The other end of the brown wire is attached to the temp switch, located high on the cylinder head.

The water pump sits on top of the gearbox, you access it by dropping the lower unit. 1978 and later models have a telltale.

Lower unit removal:
1. disconnect shift linkage under the bottom carb.
2. remove the trim tab (scribe a mark across the edge so you can get it back like it was).
3. remove the retaining bolt from the trim tab cavity.
4. remove the other retaining bolt from the bottom side of the antiventilation plate.
5. remove the four retaining bolts from the perimeter, just above the antiventilation plate.

pull the lower unit off. The water pump housing is secured to the top with four hex head screws.

the shift rod height is adjusted by screwing it in or out, so don't twist it or else it won't fit when you put it back.

on reassembly:
1. put molly lube on the drive shaft splines (but not on top, there's not enough clearance).
2. the rubber o-ring just below the drive shaft splines -- you need that.
3. put omc gasket sealant (or some kind of anti-sieze) on the retaining bolts -- or else corrosion will set in & it'll be a ***** next time.
4. Use 3m #847 or permatex #2 on the joint between midsection & lower unit.

Replace the impeller every two-three years as preventive maintenance.

 

[vergil]

Re: jonhson 75 stinger, and powershift 2 controls

this is very helpful, as looking at the diagrams kinda throws me off, is the brown wire in the wire harness? i ask as there was a mysterious orange wire coming out of the box that wasnt hooked to anything on the motor. (is this maybe a tilt or trim wire? if so where would the trim switch be on the lever box)
another ? is the link age rods that go to the throttle, from the lever box, to the motor (the 2 of them) the place where i plan to run them would be out of the right side of the pontoons with the steering cable,. my concern is it seems they could bind if we turn the motor to the left?

and my last ? is how would i check to make sure that water pump is circulating water through it while on the lake? i would see it circulate if it had the muffs on right?

 

[jtexas]

Re: jonhson 75 stinger, and powershift 2 controls

Tilt/trim wiring is typically blue (up) and green (down). What year motor we talkin bout?

If it has factory tilt/trim with a switch on the control box it's probably a rocker switch at the top of the shift/throttle control handle.

Older models might have aftermarket or dealer-installed OEM tilt/trim with the switch on the dash in which case the tilt/trim wiring is in a separate harness.

A previous owner might have replaced one of the original wires with orange.

Or, it could be a faded red wire that appears orange.

On routing the throttle & shift cables, you mean "starboard side" --now you're a boater, learn the terminology -- on my boat, they run through the starboard gunwale, make a 90? bend at the splashwell, pass in front of the motor then make a complete 360? turn to enter the front of the cowling. Don't worry they won't bind. Any case, impossible for us to tell without seeing your setup -- post some pics, we'll take a look.

If your motor has a telltale, you should get a pretty good pee stream any time the motor's running. Were it mine, I'd rebuild the water pump now -- that way, you'll know how strong it pees with a brand new impeller. If it doesn't have a telltale, you know it's working when because the overtemp horn isn't sounding a constant tone. When that alarm sounds, it means "shut 'er down like right now!"

 

[vergil]

Re: jonhson 75 stinger, and powershift 2 controls

its a 1977 75 hp stinger, i havent got it set up yet,

 

[jtexas]

Re: jonhson 75 stinger, and powershift 2 controls

do you have the grommet for the remote control cables? you'll need one a those.

Looks like a fun project, be sure to post pics when it's done.

here's what I mean about routing the cables -- they actually run down the starboard side of the boat then curl around (sorry about the low quality, it's the best pic I have on hand that shows the cables entering the motor)...

 

[vergil]

Re: jonhson 75 stinger, and powershift 2 controls

yea i have the garmet i want to run the cables in the starboard side pontoon braceing. like in the pic. of the port side, pontoon braceing, notice the hole for the steering on the port side going out the back ,

 

[vergil]

Re: jonhson 75 stinger, and powershift 2 controls

ok sorry for the double post but have to see my pics so i dont confuse any one, the first pic is of the port side pontoon braceing thats where i want to run the cables in just on the starboard side but gives you an idea, the 2nd pic is of the boat as we got it, all the alum in great shape, no dents, bends bumps etc.. great starting point for a restore, the 3rd pic is of the transom but look at the red wire to see the hole i plan to run the cables out of. ( top of pic) the 4th pic would kinda give ya an idea on how tight the bends would be.

 

[vergil]

Re: jonhson 75 stinger, and powershift 2 controls

so would the tight bends be a problem, or try to route them to become a little more strait

 

[jtexas]

Re: jonhson 75 stinger, and powershift 2 controls

I may be looking at it wrong -- see below...the routing I have drawn in red, I'm pretty sure it would bind. The yellow would work. There are probably other possibilities. Are you putting the console on the starboard side, or in the center?

You have plenty time to think about this, but just a heads-up: the stinger has a low gear ratio, about 1.8 to 1 (compared to 2.4:1 on the "regular" 3-cyl) so it's built for speed, not so much for torque -- unless yours came off a pontoon, I'm guessing you're going to end up needing a lower pitched propeller. Plenty of good info about prop pitch on the web -- here's a good place to start: http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=158083

 

[jtexas]

Re: jonhson 75 stinger, and powershift 2 controls

oops

 

[vergil]

Re: jonhson 75 stinger, and powershift 2 controls

I may be looking at it wrong -- see below...the routing I have drawn in red, I'm pretty sure it would bind. The yellow would work. There are probably other possibilities. Are you putting the console on the starboard side, or in the center?

You have plenty time to think about this, but just a heads-up: the stinger has a low gear ratio, about 1.8 to 1 (compared to 2.4:1 on the "regular" 3-cyl) so it's built for speed, not so much for torque -- unless yours came off a pontoon, I'm guessing you're going to end up needing a lower pitched propeller. Plenty of good info about prop pitch on the web -- here's a good place to start: http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=158083

that is too cool, yes i was planning to go with your red lines, what about letting it curve like the yellow w/ no loop, could that work, and the console will be tucked to the starboard side, its in the middle now and it kills all sorts of space, cant really get to crazy with cable routing as they seem a little short for the full yellow routing w the loop, (it doesnt have to be tucked in to the pontoon theres routing holes through the braces for the cables, that run in the middle of the boat, but the controls will be mounted to the handrail and was thinking it would be better for everything to route together)

as far as the prop /the motor was on the boat when i bought it.
heres what i know about it,
its a 77 75 johnson stinger
has 130 psi in all clinders
and starts and runs great (or did till i unhooked everything)
and what you just taught me (racing engine etc..)
if i passed you a better pic of the prop could you tell me if need to change it out for a better pitched prop?

 

[jtexas]

Re: jonhson 75 stinger, and powershift 2 controls

on the routing, the loop gives it the slack it needs to let the motor turn lock to lock -- with a little experimentation I bet you can get 'r done.

can't eyeball prop size -- only way to know if you should change props is RPM at WOT with a normal load, should be at the top of the max RPM range, (pretty sure for that motor it's 5500 or maybe 6000, check your manual to be sure). Higher pitch restricts RPMs by putting a heavier load on the motor & vice versa.