Kill Swith Acting Up (Maybe)

[Mkpaulk]

Thanks for the add. I'm posting here as I'm stumped right now. Here is the condition. I recently purchased a 1996 CS with a 1996 Evinrude 88 SPL model E88TSLEDR. It did not have a kill switch but just a key switch. I purchased an inline kill switch and added it. The switch worked fine. We launched the boat and it would turn over but not fire. Went back home and after fiddling around with no luck I hooked everything back up and the engine fired and ran fine. I then purchased an ignition switch with integrated kill switch and everything worked fine. Went to the lake and it fired and ran fine. Launched the boat this weekend and the engine would not fire. After taking the switch out of the console and looking at everything, quiet by accident I tried the switch with the lanyard removed and the engine fired off and ran. Put the lanyard back in and it would not fire. We ran it for several hours with the lanyard removed. Get the boat back home and going to flush the motor and it will not fire until I reinstall the lanyard for the kill. Two kill switches, same problem. Am I chasing a ground issue? Any advise on where to start appreciated.

 

[racerone]

The " kill switch " closes the circuit to stop the motor.-------It is very important to trouble shoot this recent purchase.-----What are the compression numbers.----Do that step if only for future reference.-----These motors must crank FAST in order for ignition to work.----So I usually suggest getting battery load tested.----Take starter apart for inspection and ohm test.----All easy to do and no money spent.

 

[Mkpaulk]

The " kill switch " closes the circuit to stop the motor.-------It is very important to trouble shoot this recent purchase.-----What are the compression numbers.----Do that step if only for future reference.-----These motors must crank FAST in order for ignition to work.----So I usually suggest getting battery load tested.----Take starter apart for inspection and ohm test.----All easy to do and no money spent.

All that has been tested. Compression is good and battery new.
The problem is the motor WILL RUN with the kill switch activated (on occasion) and then at times it will kill motor (as designed). I'm sure it is a sporadic electrical problem but unsure why the two activated kill switches will allow a motor to run. If I loose ground at the motor, can the motor run, even if the kill switch is activated?

 

[racerone]

Well if the kill wires were NOT GROUNDED the motor will run.----This motor will start and run with a totally dead battery.------You would pull it over with a rope and it will start and run with a dead battery.

 

[Mkpaulk]

Well if the kill wires were NOT GROUNDED the motor will run.----This motor will start and run with a totally dead battery.------You would pull it over with a rope and it will start and run with a dead battery.

I think I'm going to remove the wiring and check continuity before I look further.

Well if the kill wires were NOT GROUNDED the motor will run.----This motor will start and run with a totally dead battery.------You would pull it over with a rope and it will start and run with a dead battery.

Here's where I am. I removed the new switch and tested continuity between M terminals.
1) Switch off-continuity
2) Switch on with lanyard attached - no continuity
3) Switch on without lanyard attached - no continuity

I assume I should have continuity with the # 3 switch on without lanyard attached? If that is right, I guess I have a bad new switch. Can someone confirm my assumptions?

 

[racerone]

The lanyard OPENS the kill circuit to allow spark

 

[judavis126]

I think I'm going to remove the wiring and check continuity before I look further.

Here's where I am. I removed the new switch and tested continuity between M terminals.
1) Switch off-continuity
2) Switch on with lanyard attached - no continuity
3) Switch on without lanyard attached - no continuity

I assume I should have continuity with the # 3 switch on without lanyard attached? If that is right, I guess I have a bad new switch. Can someone confirm my assumptions?

I have a new to me boat with the same ignition system you described above. This boat starts and runs without the emergency kill lanyard installed. With the fairly new laws requiring the kill switch and for obvious safety reasons it needs to work. I have performed the same test as you mention above trying to figure out why and it’s had me stumped. I have even bought a new ignition switch with the exact same results regarding the continuity test. I’m starting to wonder if that’s not how this ignition switch was designed to work? Reason being, take notice to when the emergency kill lanyard is pulled, it automatically turns the key to the OFF position. Also in the Johnson service manual it makes no mention of ensuring the lanyard is in place during the “key switch test”. I’m thinking I’ve been chasing my tail and it has been working all along, in a way that I didn’t realize. What have you figured out?

 

[judavis126]

So in short I’m thinking the kill switch on this particular ignition switch is mechanical and not electrical.

 

[Mkpaulk]

I have a new to me boat with the same ignition system you described above. This boat starts and runs without the emergency kill lanyard installed. With the fairly new laws requiring the kill switch and for obvious safety reasons it needs to work. I have performed the same test as you mention above trying to figure out why and it’s had me stumped. I have even bought a new ignition switch with the exact same results regarding the continuity test. I’m starting to wonder if that’s not how this ignition switch was designed to work? Reason being, take notice to when the emergency kill lanyard is pulled, it automatically turns the key to the OFF position. Also in the Johnson service manual it makes no mention of ensuring the lanyard is in place during the “key switch test”. I’m thinking I’ve been chasing my tail and it has been working all along, in a way that I didn’t realize. What have you figured out?

View attachment 327586

Same thing. The lanyard kicks the key back and I suppose it is by design so someone can restart the boat but I'm not happy with that. I want the motor to ground out because most of the time I'll be by myself and don't trust the key kicking over. I re-installed the original switch and also installed a separate kill switch to the kill wires. It seems to do what I need.

https://www.amazon.com/Sea-Dog-420488-1-Switch-Lanyard/dp/B00DH3QHBI