Lake 'N Sea Caribbean restoration/restomod?

[chevymaher]

Yeah, that might be my only real option. Just seems a shame to put so much work into it and then have something so visible and simple look unfinished. Or like kcassells said, try rechroming them but I suspect that will be prohibitively expensive. I'll have to call around.

Take some 3000 sponge sandpaper to them get the haze off. Hold a buffer in a vice on medium speed. Use cutting buffing compound on the buffer pad. Just hold them against the buffer. I bet they shine up and look real good. Last pic of your boat I like it nice boat.

 

[TommyRocker]

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Double post

 

[TommyRocker]

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Got it off the trailer and onto a cradle today, and mostly ready to split. Tomorrow I've got to finish some hull supports on the cradle then I'll try to get it split. I haven't noticed the issue on the hull but the cap has a really terrible looking finish. I'm planning on painting it anyways, but as you can see in the pictures, it's really rough. What do you experts recommend to smooth it? I've got a bunch of poly resin on the way along with 1708 for the stringers and transom. I have some 3m filler as well. I've done stringers and such before but none of the finish work like painting and fairing.

 

[TommyRocker]

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I got the cap mostly split from the hull without too much damage. The last foot or so of each side of the flange was pretty badly cracked from apparent impact damage and will have to rebuilt with new glass, as well as about six inches where I damaged it before I figured out a good method to split it. The fins separated from the transom without much trouble but the center of the splashwell is still pretty well fused to the transom. I'm hoping to get that split and have the boat in halves this weekend. Tomorrow we're going to the northern Illinois airshow but if all goes well I'll start pulling the floor Sunday.

 

[TommyRocker]

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Got the cap off tonight, hopefully will get the floor out Sunday.

 

[kcassells]

Awe Heck... your moving along just fine. Keet at it. Let the grinding begin :joyous:

Try a trophy shop.
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...-restoration-restomod?p=10473232#post10473232

 

[TommyRocker]

Upon lifting the floor and seeing the stringers, they're definitely wet but in much better shape than I'd expected for a 60 year old boat. My issue is that they are a full 2 inches wide. I'm debating either replacing with 2 inch foam and building up the fiberglass to take the full load or replacing them with Arjays 6011. It's a small enough boat that either option is relatively affordable. That way there won't be any wood left to rot. Transom will be poured. I know properly done wood will last a very very long time but I also know that it I put it back together with wood I'll always be paranoid. I plan to keep this boat a very long time.

 

[TommyRocker]

I've got a question about painting. The cap is showing the fiberglass weave over most of its surface. It looks like tiny little cracks in the finish that make up the pattern of the fiberglass. How would I correct this to paint it?

 

[kcassells]

you would probably ;' A or B
-Sand it smooth and recoat with a filler sand a bunch more times and coat it with gelcoat or paint.
-Putty the voids and sand the hey out of it and paint/gelcoat.

 

[TommyRocker]

Any particular material you'd recommend?

 

[Woodonglass]

There's a neat trick of wiping and scrubbing it really well with acetone and then using gelcoat thickened with Cabosil to the consistency of Mayonaise and then squeegeing it all over the cracked surface using a bondo spreader. This fills the cracks and after sanding makes for a great paintable surface. It's no guarantee that the cracked gelcoat won't continue to deteriorate and the cracks reappearing but some have had good luck with this method. The Only sure method is to sand down to fresh glass and either re-gelcoat or paint it.

 

[Guest]

TommyRock - Be aware that that 67 V-4 is heavier than the Johnson 60. Plan on keeping at least 2 six gallon tanks of gas aboard your boat too. That motor has a veracious appetite for fuel. Those old belt driven distributor V-4's are solid and strong though.

 

[TommyRocker]

Thanks for the heads up. I'm replacing the transom plywood with corelite board which they claim is 27 percent lighter, so I'm hoping that will help a bit with the engine weight gain. If the numbers I found are right, the Evinrude is less than 30 pounds heavier than the Johnson I took off. They both feel stupid heavy to me. I'm hoping to have the new stringers and transom glassed in Saturday.

 

[TommyRocker]

Haven't updated in a while. Was too cold to do glass work most of the winter and then we bought a house and moved and had all that craziness going on. Finally started up again a couple weeks ago. Got the transom, stringers, floor all back in. Used Corelite for the transom and stringers, glassed in with 1708 and poly. Also just got the Evinrude running today, which I'm thrilled about. Next step is exterior repairs and prepping for painting and getting the cap back on. I've read multiple ways of attaching the cap, the 2 prominent ones seem to be peanut butter and a high strength adhesive like pl premium or 5200. Any thoughts on this? I'd love to use adhesive for the simplicity of it.

 

[Woodonglass]

How was the cap originally attached?

 

[TommyRocker]

I'm not sure. It's an extremely brittle gray materials, might be old adhesive or thickened resin, then stapled every couple inches, and the rub rail bolts every 6 inches

 

[TommyRocker]

It was hard and brittle and fell apart