Leaking boat

[tadams55]

I have a 1986 Tide Craft bass boat and I am having problems with too much water getting in the bottom between the floor and hull. All the plumbing seems to be connected and the live wells seems to be ok. I have checked for holes and damage to the hull and it doesn’t have any leaks. I am attaching a picture of the back of the boat for you to see. This is the only area that has ports beneath the water level. Can you give me your opinion on this I cannot find a owner’s manual on the boat. With it taking on the water I can’t get the boat to plane and run right the engine is struggling and it has a 90 hp Evinrude on it. On the back of the boat you will see the drain plug, two ports for live wells and the two black vents what I have no idea what they are for. It would much help if I had a manual but I can’t find one. Please help!!!!
I have looked all over the internet and your site is the most friendliest and easy to use, if you can give me any ideas I would appreciate. I am just about to the point of removing the two ports in the back and filling my live wells manually and then draining in the bottom when I remove from fishing and drain thru the drain plug, at least that way I would only have what water is in the well and not constantly putting water in the bottom the whole time I am fishing. The only way I can keep it out now is to turn on the bilge pump and pump it out. This driving me crazy and I can’t get the performance out of the boat the way I should.
I have filled the live wells manually and can’t find a leak I have ran water in the two ports and it goes to the live wells and will drain back out the same way and again like I say if I had a manual on the boat it might help. I really like this boat and I hope you can help me, if you think I could remove the two ports and fiberglass and seal this area on the back I can do that and leave the plumbing inside the hull to drain the live wells if this would eliminate leaking it might be worth my while.
Again Please help me with this problem after screening your site I know you are knowledgeable of these things.
The last time I ran the boat i bet i drained out 15 gal. of water when i loaded it on the trailer, this is making it run bad and will get on plane.
I have added a picture i am sure the two white ports are drain and i figure the two black is for my live wells.

 

[Campylobacter]

Re: Leaking boat

Your picture is not attached and/or showing up.

Edit: and Welcome Aboard!

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: Leaking boat

Welcome to iboats.

Absolutely check ALL the fittings, drains and inlets on the boat. Livewells and the associated plumbing often are tight but might be leaking along the line someplace and not the fitting. Use 3m5200 to make sure you have a good seal on fittings and replace lines as needed.

The other two places where water leaks in is under the rubrail while you are under power and another common leak come from the lower mounting bolts on the motor which are normally underwater while you are stopped.

I would also check for damage under the hull and look for crack along the chines.

That sounds like allot of water. Those "black" fittings are your livewell intakes.

Take a look at this thread which will give you an idea of what is below the deck and what "might" lie within http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...craft-wildfire-restore-all-rotted-521033.html

 

[Home Cookin']

Re: Leaking boat

If you are accumulating 15 gallons of water, you need to re-engineer your bilge pump.

If 15 gallons of water (90 pounds) is affecting your performance, well, that's not what's affecting your performance. I tested it by running a similar boat with my 8 year nephew across the lake then throwing him overboard for the run home. Seriously, though, you probably have waterlogged foam adding substantial weight and also impeding the draining. Here's the real test: how does it run when you first leave the ramp before it takes on water? How does it sit at the dock before and after? Does it have an unnatural water line from the previous owner?

Your bow eye can be a source of water. Also a disconnected speedo tube.

Don't drain live wells and fish boxes into the hull and out the plug hole. Yuck.

 

[Watermann]

Re: Leaking boat

You should have one through the hull fitting for the livewell pump. If you have 2 livewells then there will be 2 through the hull fittings for the overflow and drain. Don't plug those, they have hoses on them and it the only way for the livewells to circulate fresh water into the wells. The intake for the pump is below the waterline and the other 2 drains are usually right at the waterline or slightly above.

You can test the wells plumbing for leaks by taking an old garden hose with the fitting cut off and push it into the intake, turn the water on and then the pump. Open everything up and reach in running your hand along all of the fittings and hoses to feel for water leaks.

If the plumbing is good, be sure all of the through the hull fittings are not cracked and tight with marine silicone sealer. As said previously if all that is good start suspecting a hull breach or through the transom bolts. Check the keel for wear from the bow being beached.

I agree with the water logged foam being a problem with added weight more so that just raw water in the bilge. The age of your boat with a water leak or the boat being left uncovered in the weather could cause the flotation foam to become saturated.

 

[tadams55]

Re: Leaking boat

I am off this friday and will check all the areas that have been sent to me. I appreciate all the help and will keep posted as of my finds and maybe it will help someone else.

 

[Home Cookin']

Re: Leaking boat

and welcome to iboats--sorry you had top start off with a leaker but thats' why we're here!

 

[explorer 542]

Re: Leaking boat

do you not have shutoff valves on your live wells that you can close to see if the boat leaks with them in the closed position.

 

[flycaster]

Re: Leaking boat

Before you launch your boat, make sure that the bilge is dry. Before backing the boat to the water, insert the PLUG, back your trailer to the waters edge, open your access cover to the bilge and sprinkle some talc powder all around the bottom of the bilge area. Have a second person on the boat and observing the bilge area as you back the boat and trailer into the water. GO SLOW. The water, when entering the bilge area should show up as traces thru the dusted talc powder. This should give you an idea into which area of the bilge you need to look for the water intrusion.

 

[tadams55]

Re: Leaking boat

I have aireator pumps and bilge pump they seem to be working fine.

 

[tadams55]

Re: Leaking boat

I am not sorry for the price i think did very well, so if i have to work on it until fishing season next year that will be fine. It is a nice looking boat and I am a patient person so i will get it with all the help i can get from you guys.

 

[tadams55]

Re: Leaking boat

and welcome to iboats--sorry you had top start off with a leaker but thats' why we're here!

I am not sorry for the price i think did very well, so if i have to work on it until fishing season next year that will be fine. It is a nice looking boat and I am a patient person so i will get it with all the help i can get from you guys.

 

[Watermann]

Re: Leaking boat

If all else fails, just add water. If you have a leak in the hull, sometimes the best way to find it if to add water and crawl under to see where it's dripping out.

 

[tadams55]

Re: Leaking boat

i have already filled the bottom of the boat with water and checked all underneath it and i can't find a leak in the hull. this is why a figured it might have something to do with the live wells. I will check the live wells and the back of the boat where the motor is bolted on and make sure i don't have a leat in any of these areas.

 

[MAC ATTACK]

Re: Leaking boat

I had the same issue with an older bass boat. Never could find the culprit using several of the above tricks. Got tired of it and ended up taking every thru-hull/transom plug/transducer off (one at a time), cleaning with acetone and re-sealed with 5200. Once everything was resealed and cured it stopped with a small exception. I then plugged my livewell and aerator holes (one at a time) and found the small leak on a aerator line. Bilge and hull were dry as a bone after that. The piece of mind was worth the effort, especially if you leave your boat in the water for any length of time.

Good Luck!

 

[Volphin]

Re: Leaking boat

Our 86 Winner has a small leak from some portion of the 2 live wells. This appears to be fairly common.

 

[tadams55]

Re: Leaking boat

I am sure by next spring i will get it all figured out with all the help i have been getting. It is nice to have experinced people out to help with these problems.

 

[tadams55]

Re: Leaking boat

Good afternoon all, I went out today and got my water hose, I filled the front live well all the way to top and plug the live well. I checked the back plug for any water leaking and could not see any. I then filled the back live well and plug it checking it the same way. To my surprize I didn't have any leaks there either. I checked the fitting at the back of the transom and everyone of them have been sealed with what looks clear silicone, all fittings and the engine brackets where it bolts on. I cannot find a leak in the plumbing anywhere, so I guess my next step would be to check the transom to see if it has any damage. I have filled the bottom of the boat with water and cannot find any leaks. All can figure out is when the boat is sitting in water it is taking water on around fittings and the bottome two bolts that hold the engine on. Has anyone have any idea what is the best way to check for damages and what is the best way to fix the leaks if the transom is not rotten.

 

[MAC ATTACK]

Re: Leaking boat

First thing, filling the live well with water will only find a sizeable leak. There is a lot more pressure on the fittings/lines etc. when the boat is in the water. I have tried this both ways, and found a leak only by having the boat in the water.

Second, are you sure your front live-well fills and drains from the rear? My forward live-well had thru-hull fittings on the front of the hull.

Third, if you are seeing clear silicone on "ANY" fitting below the waterline, remove it, clean thoroughly with acetone (unless hull is painted, acetone will remove paint) and re-seal with 3M 5200.

The lower bolts on the engine should be resealed. They are large and through the transom.

I recommend removing the lower engine bolts and thru-hull fittings/transducer on the transom. Put a block under the front jack to raise the front of the boat for draining. Check the holes for damp/discolored wood. If you find damp wood, let the transom dry, use a blower/fan/heater etc. to help. Do not re-seal until moisture is gone. It might not dry completely depending on how much time you have but give it time. Then re-seal everything with 5200.

One tip on 5200. It is very thin and will run on you. Thin is good for getting into small crevices, but sometimes a challenge to build up. If you need the 5200 to build up, let it sit (cap on) for a couple of days to start hardening. 5200 starts curing right away, but takes 7 days to fully cure. Once it gets to a desired consistency, use it. Do not let it sit too long as the more it hardens the less adhering ability it has.

 

[crabby captain john]

Re: Leaking boat

First thing, filling the live well with water will only find a sizeable leak. There is a lot more pressure on the fittings/lines etc. when the boat is in the water. I have tried this both ways, and found a leak only by having the boat in the water.

Second, are you sure your front live-well fills and drains from the rear? My forward live-well had thru-hull fittings on the front of the hull.

Third, if you are seeing clear silicone on "ANY" fitting below the waterline, remove it, clean thoroughly with acetone (unless hull is painted, acetone will remove paint) and re-seal with 3M 5200.

The lower bolts on the engine should be resealed. They are large and through the transom.

I recommend removing the lower engine bolts and thru-hull fittings/transducer on the transom. Put a block under the front jack to raise the front of the boat for draining. Check the holes for damp/discolored wood. If you find damp wood, let the transom dry, use a blower/fan/heater etc. to help. Do not re-seal until moisture is gone. It might not dry completely depending on how much time you have but give it time. Then re-seal everything with 5200.

One tip on 5200. It is very thin and will run on you. Thin is good for getting into small crevices, but sometimes a challenge to build up. If you need the 5200 to build up, let it sit (cap on) for a couple of days to start hardening. 5200 starts curing right away, but takes 7 days to fully cure. Once it gets to a desired consistency, use it. Do not let it sit too long as the more it hardens the less adhering ability it has.

Fill all but the last 1/4 inch with SIX10 and top with 5200 after 24 hours.