Lifter replacement all or one??

[gm280]

A few things come to mind reading this thread. If the lifter is suspect, then an adjustment should quiet it easily. It may come back but an initial adjustment should stop it for a short while. And if it is determined to be a single lifter, you can disassembly them and clean them to allow them to pump up again to remove the valve slash (clicking). That is if the oil pathways are allowing oil to get to the lifter. If could even be a bent valve, or even a rocker stud coming out. But all those things can be checked and eliminated as well. Also look for a bent pushrod. Once they start to bent, they continue even with a freshly adjusted lifter adjustment. It would be very subtle but bent if you rolled in on a true flat surface. JMHO!

 

[SHickey]

Thanks again

I never realized there were so many variables with these old motor valve systems. I thought I could replace a lifter or a whole set of lifters and be done with the whole ticking situation but nooooooooooooo. I had no idea lifters could be disassembled and cleaned.

When I get my motor running again this spring, I will use the stethoscope to determine if the ticking is in the shutter or again in the last two risers in the last cylinder in the back of the motor. I just got my outdrive back together so that will go back on the boat this weekend if it does not snow.

Thanks again for all of the input!!

 

[gm280]

Thanks again

I never realized there were so many variables with these old motor valve systems. I thought I could replace a lifter or a whole set of lifters and be done with the whole ticking situation but nooooooooooooo. I had no idea lifters could be disassembled and cleaned.

When I get my motor running again this spring, I will use the stethoscope to determine if the ticking is in the shutter or again in the last two risers in the last cylinder in the back of the motor. I just got my outdrive back together so that will go back on the boat this weekend if it does not snow.

Thanks again for all of the input!!

Yes Shickey lifers can be disassembled and cleaned. And if the bottom of the lifter is not mooned shaped yet, it will work again. You can take a known straight edge to verify the bottom of the lifter is flat. And when cleaning the lifter, if it comes to that, use a good cleaner like carb cleaner. The insides get carboned up and stops allowing oil to pump them up. Yes I have cleaned lifters before. JMHO!

 

[SHickey]

Thanks for the explanation.

I would imagine that cleaning up the lifter and returning it to the proper lifter cavity would be better than using a brand new one due to the wear pattern on the cam lobe. Do you also recommend using an engine oil change flush solvent when changing the oil to remove any gunk or residue that may clog up these valve lifters, push rods and risers??

There is nothing nicer to look at than a clean motor inside and out!

Thanks again!!

 

[fishrdan]

Shutters are not that difficult to replace, that's what I though was causing the noise when initially reading your thread. If the riser is easy to remove that's good news, drain the manifold/riser and pull the riser, then the exhaust rubber coupler, shutters are right below at the top of the down-pipe.

If you're lucky someone has already replaced the shutters before and the retainers are screw/nutted in, easy-peasy repair. If they haven't been replaced before the hardware is riveted into the down pipe...

If you do go in and replace lifter(s), they need to be broken in just like breaking in a new cam, fire up the engine and immediately go to 1500-2000RPM for 15-20 minutes. If you don't break in replacement lifters, they will wipe a cam lobe as mentioned earlier.

 

[SHickey]

Thanks again for the advice.

When I fire her back up, I will scope all of the riser points and the exhaust elbow to hopefully confirm the source of the tick. If it is indeed lifters and not the shutter then I will pull all of the lifters, number them all, clean and inspect each one and go from there.

The shutter would most likely be the easiest fix of all if that is the source.

Thanks again for the responses.

 

[GA_Boater]

With all the valve adjustments you've done. has the ticking ever gone away? Even for a short time?

 

[SHickey]

With all of the adjusting I have done last season I was never able to get rid if the tick even for a short time. It is very frustrating and annoying to me even though my passengers don't seem to hear it and my mechanic buddy tells me to stop worrying about it. I just know these motors are pretty easy to work on and this particular motor has been most dependable and strong for as long as I have had the boat.

If and when I get rid of the tick, my next upgrade would be a install an electronic ignition for the distributor. I have been told it is a nice upgrade for the old style points and condenser system I have now.

Thanks again for the input!!

 

[gm280]

SHickey, if worst comes to worst, you can always replace the cam and lifters as a set. But it I were going to do that, I would do a total top end rebuild with a complete head/valve job then. But that is just me. If you clean the one lifter that is not working correctly, just install it back in the same lifter hole and no problem. If you clean all the lifters, make sure they go back to their original positions as well.

As for using an engine flush, I wouldn't myself. Some times it creates leaks that were not leaking before. With the age and run time on the engine, you have no idea what is presently sealed. So don't make things get flushed away unless you have plans to rebuild the entire engine. And then it really doesn't matter anyway. JMHO!

 

[SHickey]

Thanks again for the advice.

I don't foresee doing a total top end rebuild on this motor because I would probably look at swapping it out for a 4.3 or a small V-8 if the motor failed or lost most of it's performance.

Thanks again for the advice!!

 

[GA_Boater]

With all of the adjusting I have done last season I was never able to get rid if the tick even for a short time. It is very frustrating and annoying to me even though my passengers don't seem to hear it and my mechanic buddy tells me to stop worrying about it. I just know these motors are pretty easy to work on and this particular motor has been most dependable and strong for as long as I have had the boat.

If and when I get rid of the tick, my next upgrade would be a install an electronic ignition for the distributor. I have been told it is a nice upgrade for the old style points and condenser system I have now.

Thanks again for the input!!

Since the ticking never went away when adjusting the valves, then you do not have a lifter problem.

Isn't the outdrive off right now? The bellows too, I assume. Put a mirror up the exhaust and shine light in to see what the shutter looks like. You might be able to put a smartphone in there to snap a pic.

 

[SHickey]

Thanks for responding.

The outdrive is in my garage ready to go back on to the boat. I replaced the shift shaft oil seal and no leaks so far.

This morning I took a chance and moved my boat from behind the shed and back into the driveway before the snow we are supposed to receive this weekend. With the boat in the driveway and backed up to the garage,it will be very easy for me to tinker with it before I put the outdrive back on. Without too much trouble, I will attempt to check out the shutter tomorrow if the weather holds.

There is nothing better than to look into the motor compartment after not viewing it for 6 months!!

Thanks for the responses!!

 

[SHickey]

Well as a light snow fell in upstate NY, I removed the winter cover, opened up the engine cover, removed the poison mouse baits, removed the riser and the exhaust bellow and much to my surprise I found what was left of the shutter. Just about NOTHING!! It was completely disintegrated except for a little melted plastic around the hinge.

The shutter bracket in my exhaust elbow assembly is riveted in so if I am to replace the shutter, I will need to drill out the rivets and remove the old shutter without dropping any of the pieces down into the elbow assembly. It would be much easier if I can just disconnect the exhaust elbow assembly but I may need to be a contortionist to get at it.

Any ideas on how to make the replacement any easier. And lastly, do I even need a shutter considering the whole system has been without one for the last 4 years??

All responses are greatly appreciated!!

 

[Bt Doctur]

If your carefull how you run the boat,probably not.

 

[SHickey]

When you say, how I run the boat?? I am not sure what you mean by that??

I am not really sure what the shutter does except to keep water from back flowing back up into the raiser?? But I would imagine if the motor is running, the exhaust gas pressure would keep the water out anyway??

and thanks for the response!!

 

[GA_Boater]

When you say, how I run the boat?? I am not sure what you mean by that??

I am not really sure what the shutter does except to keep water from back flowing back up into the raiser?? But I would imagine if the motor is running, the exhaust gas pressure would keep the water out anyway??

and thanks for the response!!

Not exactly. If you are on plane and chop the throttle to idle, there is a chance if all the stars are maligned. that water from the stern wave could be forced up the exhaust and drown the motor. To avoid that. simply reduce the throttle slowly when slowing the boat.

As far as drilling and dropping pieces down the elbow. isn't the drive still off? you can reach in and pull out the dropped pieces from the stern side of the exhaust.

 

[SHickey]

Thanks for the explanation, I do not suddenly down throttle at plane under any circumstances but I would imagine the possibility would exist if I needed to avoid a log or scuba diver. I do need to remove the old shutter to get rid if the ticking sound so I guess I will need to consider whether or not it would be worth the $40 to replace it and make the whole system right

I only wish removing the exhaust elbow could be a little easier, that way I could pull the elbow off, drill out the rivets and replace the shutter or reassemble the works without the shutter. Very difficult decisions to ponder.

Thank you for the responses!!

 

[Alumarine]

You don't have to drill it out.

You can use a dremel or grinder to grind off the rivets on one of the 2 clips that hold the flapper in. That allows you to remove the old flapper.

You can use the clip that's left there with one of the new clips.
It makes sense once you remove the flapper.

Then use stainless 10-32 machine screws to attach the new one.

• IMG_0027 (450 x 600).jpg (107.5 KB, 1 view)

 

[SHickey]

Yes, I can see how I can remove one of the clips to remove the shutter and get rid if the ticking sound.

More importantly, I was wondering it is even necessary to replace the shutter or should I run the system w/o the shutter and take my chances.

I would guess most of the forum posters would recommend replacing the shutter for $40 and not take a chance of flooding the motor with water if I make an emergency stop. Just makes sense. :stupid:

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... Launchin', 'n retrivin' the boat from the water is of major concern with backwash too,.....