Lone Star Medallion questions

[shimanok2]

Hi all, Just purchased a lone star Medallion (according to tag, see pictures) for cheap. It's in need of a good cleaning, paint, decking, motor w/ controls, etc. I'm looking to restore it but had a few questions first.

1. What's the best option for decking? marine grade plywood w/ carpeting, composite decking?

2. I'm sure there is a trick to painting aluminum, especially since it has already been painted and is either in poor shape or coming off. Is this a simple process that can be done by myself or one left to a pro? It was recently bottom painted, so all it really needs is interior and items like the bow, fixtures, etc.

3. I can't seem to find what size motor this boat is rated for. I've checked the glass classics website but can't even find the medallion model on there. Any ideas?

Thanks a lot for any help and enjoy the pictures!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Lone Star Medallion questions

Welcome to iBoats!

I believe it's a 1963 and it's rated for 90 hp.
Page #10 in my "My Flamingo" resto thread will tell you all you need to know about painting your boat.
Ext. Grade Ply wood is used quite frequently here on the Forum, I like MDO plywood for decks, and of course Marine Grade is the Cadillac. Most of the TIN Boat guys like the Vinyl Decking to cover it with. Durabak seems to be the vinyl of choice. Lot's of guys use the seats from WalMart. I think they are made by WISE. Deck Hardware can be found frequently on Ebay. How's the transom in the Boat?

 

[shimanok2]

Re: Lone Star Medallion questions

Thanks for the help Woodonglass.

I'm assuming the Durabak is applied right to the ply? Would having smaller boards (of ply or composite decking) running bow to stern with a small gap between them let the moisture escape better. Seems like a lot of condensation would accumulate on the inside of the hull when it's humid out.

Speaking of composite decking, are there any reasonably priced option available?

Would you happen to know if it's possible to remove the glass from the window frames to clean/replace and redo the weatherstripping?

Oh, The Transom seems to be very solid from what I can tell. It looks like a 2 x 8 or 2 x 10 in front of the aluminum. seems ok though.

I plan on putting the boat into a local lake to see if it leaks at all. No point in redoing everything if it has more holes than a strainer...

Any other problems I should look out for?

Again, thanks for all the help!

 

[greenbush future]

Re: Lone Star Medallion questions

Lone Star motor rating, my 61 Fleetwood ?sport? is 16.5 feet long, and close to your style, it?s rated for 90 hp, but I have twin 35?s hanging on her See my picture in my profile. With a 90 hp, that thing will scream. The comment about a 2 x 8 at the transom seems odd, you should have an alum. cap that covers the transom, and the wood core under that cap is what you want to look at, and ensure it is solid everywhere. You can drill core samples from the inside and check the drill shavings for any wet or dark rotted wood. Be sure to drill several places, especially down by the drain plug, or around any through holes in your transom. Mine was rotted bad and had to be replaced, which isn?t that hard to do.
Join Yahoo groups "lone Star boat", they have tons of original literature to define your boat and everything about it.

Welcome to the best boat website around,

Dan AKA "the bush"

 

[shimanok2]

Re: Lone Star Medallion questions

Thanks "The Bush"

It seems like a 90 might be overkill. I'm thinking a 60 or 70 would do it just fine.

The transom is aluminum with a wood core. I just described it incorrectly in the previous post. I've attached a close(r) up photo of the transom for your inspection.

You mentioned drilling samples to check for wet/rotted wood. The wood does not go down to the drain plug, but stops where the decking would be, and even has a little aluminum lip on it to floor over. Is this not right?

 

[greenbush future]

Re: Lone Star Medallion questions

Based on the picture, the transom is behind the wood you were talking about, you should see tell-tale marks from where the motor sat (maybe even bolt holes through it). It looks like it?s all covered with the fiberglass cap of the boat (mine was too) but under that, should be a wood core that you want to inspect and take core samples from. I am by no means an expert, but my transom was rotted and I?ll bet you lunch, yours could be too. Boat is over 50 years old; I would at least check it out while you have no motor on the back.

On my boat I had a small alum cap that was over the top of the transom that was easy to pop off and view from the top, and mine was rotted right there under the cap, and when I dug deeper I found other areas of bad and good wood. It had to be replaced and it isnt that hard of a project if you have some basic tools and abilities.
That?s a great looking boat, have fun

 

[shimanok2]

Re: Lone Star Medallion questions

Hi all, I plan to start working on the Medallion this upcoming spring. While I am in no rush to finish this year, I wouldn't mind picking up some much needed items like an engine, controls, steering, seats, etc even if they don't get installed this year. I am seeing a lot of good deals right now, so why not buy.

With that said, what size engine would be appropriate for this size/style of boat for my use (cruising and fishing with 2-3 people)? I know it's rated for a 90, but what exactly will that get me? Could It pull a skier out of the water with ease? Any estimate of the top speed? 2 or 4 stroke (both used) for my use?

I have seen on this and other sites where the owner has installed the gas tank(s) under custom wood (and then carpeted) boxes with the seats then installed on top. I like the idea of getting the tanks away from the stern and can see how everything can go together and come apart for repairs, but am wondering if there are any large disadvantages to this?

Thanks in advance for all the help.