Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look for?

[cecho]

Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

Thanks for the info. If it is an MC-1, are parts readily available for it? Does it require any special tools to work on it? Are the parts reasonably priced?

 

[Don S]

Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

It is a MC-1 drive, and it is a model 233 Ford 351 engine. Merc only used the Ford engines from 75 to 77, so don't get excited if you can't find oem Merc accessory parts for the engine.

Yes, most parts are available for the drive, and yes, they require special tools to work on. But it depends on the job you are doing what tools you would need.

 

[cecho]

Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

Thanks! Now assuming a quick prop strike caused a gear in the top end to strip out, what might I be looking at in the way of parts to fix it? I'm trying to find how much the cost of the repairs will be to find out if it's worth buying the boat or not.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

Thanks! Now assuming a quick prop strike caused a gear in the top end to strip out, what might I be looking at in the way of parts to fix it? I'm trying to find how much the cost of the repairs will be to find out if it's worth buying the boat or not.

Ayuh,.... 'bout $1,500.00 for an SEI replacement drive....

You'll also need to re-prop, as the gears used with the 351(1.32:1) are NLA,...

The 1.5:1 will work, with a bigger prop...

 

[cecho]

Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

Ayuh,.... 'bout $1,500.00 for an SEI replacement drive....

You'll also need to re-prop, as the gears used with the 351(1.32:1) are NLA,...

The 1.5:1 will work, with a bigger prop...

Is it not worth trying to repair what's there before going to a new drive?

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

Is it not worth trying to repair what's there before going to a new drive?

Howdy,

No. A complete Mercruiser rebuild will likely cost more than a new SEI (with 3 yr warranty) drive.

Also, consider that the main wear items (manifolds, risers, coupler, ignition, fuel pump etc) for an older Ford marine engine will likely cost more than similar parts for a current GM engine.

Take the absolute lowest price you think you can buy this boat, add $1500 for a new drive + cost for Ford-marine manifolds/risers, + cost for tune-up parts (dist cap/rotor/wires/plugs), carb kit, AND fuel pump and take the total you get and see if you can find a newer boat that is Mercruiser or Volvo Penta powered with a newer GM V-6 or V-8.

You might be surprised and if you go for the alternative, you'll have a more supportable boat if you have future problems.


Just another choice out of many..........


Good Luck!


Rick

 

[cecho]

Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

Howdy,

No. A complete Mercruiser rebuild will likely cost more than a new SEI (with 3 yr warranty) drive.

Also, consider that the main wear items (manifolds, risers, coupler, ignition, fuel pump etc) for an older Ford marine engine will likely cost more than similar parts for a current GM engine.

Take the absolute lowest price you think you can buy this boat, add $1500 for a new drive + cost for Ford-marine manifolds/risers, + cost for tune-up parts (dist cap/rotor/wires/plugs), carb kit, AND fuel pump and take the total you get and see if you can find a newer boat that is Mercruiser or Volvo Penta powered with a newer GM V-6 or V-8.

You might be surprised and if you go for the alternative, you'll have a more supportable boat if you have future problems.


Just another choice out of many..........


Good Luck!


Rick

Thanks Rick, that's superb advice.

 

[Don S]

Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

If you blow the upper gears, it's cheaper to buy the SEI upper than to buy new gears, bearings, seal kits, and special tools.

The 2 upper gears for the 1.32 are still available, or available again because they were gone for a while are PN 43-66773A3 and the list price from Merc is $683. You still need the tools, bearings, and seals. The new SEI upper with 3 year warranty (should you be lucky enough the lower is still ok) costs $650.

 

[cecho]

Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

Hmm, looking at the costs of newer cuddy cabins it may actually be worth rebuilding an older one. I don't really see the point of getting a newer boat. The old boats seem to work just as well as the new ones. I don't think the technology in the engines or out drives is all that different... save fuel injection.

Is there a good way to know if the low end is bad? If I take the gamble and get this boat will parting the upper from the lower give me any good information?

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

Is there a good way to know if the low end is bad? If I take the gamble and get this boat will parting the upper from the lower give me any good information?

Not really unless there's obvious damage.

But understand that the "upper" and "lower" share the same oil supply and oil does circulate. If there was gradual damage in the upper and it caused oil contamination (which usually happens) , the "lower" will have to be disassembled and inspected/repaired too....... requiring the same exotic tools and labor to reassemble. If you have to buy new parts and pay someone to do it it could approach the cost of a new SEI.

Also, I don't remember you saying where you are. If the boat lived someplace where it was exposed to freezing temps, you should pressure-check the engine block. Never believe the original owner claiming to have "Winterized" the engine. (Trust, but verify!!)

The coup-de-gras after rebuilding/replacing the drive would be discovering a freeze-cracked block!

Also, I would suggest removing the manifolds and separating the risers from them so you can inspect the manifolds, risers and manifold-riser gaskets. If there's a leak, and /or the gaskets are bad, you'll want to find it before running it.

By the way, you can find manifolds and risers etc right here on iBoats. There's also other sources all over the internet. I am told It's a good idea to convert to center-rise manifolds over the older ("log") style if you have to replace them.

 

[cecho]

Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

I'm looking at another boat with a 898 mercruiser. What should I know about this engine and out drive? I believe it's a Chevy 305.

 

[tazrig]

Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

The outdrive is an MC-1. It's an older style drive, was around just before the Alpha series came out but still pretty reliable (an appropriate choice for a 305 engine) and the 305 and 350 mercs are real good work horse engines assuming they were taken care of previously. Unlike the merc 470 that is known for overheating and some faulty designs, I don't know of any specific issues with the 305. You see a lot of older 305's and 350's that run just fine for years. As with any marine engine do a pressure and leak down test to help determine how much life is left in it. Check for any cracks in the block (incase it wasn't winterized correctly) Also expect to replace the exhaust elbows and possibly the manifolds sometime soon if the boat was used in saltwater as this motor is raw water cooled. The obvious annual stuff such as plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filters, oil and filter (engine) and oil (drive) etc. and semi annual water pump check, impeller change and pressure test of lower drive. Remember to replace the little oil fill and drain screw gaskets when changing the gear case oil.

 

[wrench 3]

Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

Those MC-1 drives had a habit of of snapping the pinion gear off of the vertical shaft in the lower unit. the shaft diameter was too small, even for a 165. Not a real expensive repair if your doing the work your self, but darn annoying if your left in the middle of the lake.

 

[tazrig]

Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

Those MC-1 drives had a habit of of snapping the pinion gear off of the vertical shaft in the lower unit. the shaft diameter was too small, even for a 165. Not a real expensive repair if your doing the work your self, but darn annoying if your left in the middle of the lake.

Huh, I had twin MC-1's before I switched to the alpha's 22 years ago and never had that problem but it could have been having had twins it never applied enough torque to snap the pin. I only had the drives for 2-3 years before I switched to the alpha's so I may have just been lucky too. How often did this happen to you?

 

[cecho]

Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

Why did you switch to the alphas? New boat or out-drive replacement?

 

[MolsonCanadian]

Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

Where are you and what is your budget?

 

[cecho]

Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

Mid Kansas, budget is open, but I do NOT want a new boat at new boat prices and am looking to stay under $5,000 for an older small cabin cruiser or a cuddy cabin with twin or single inboard/outboard engines. I'd be willing to drive around 500 miles MAX to get exactly what I'm looking for, but am wary of doing so since I can't inspect the boat before driving to get it.

I'd absolutely love a walk around with a small cabin or something with a flybridge, but they really don't exist in Kansas. A cuddy cabin or cabin cruiser will work well enough for me this year. I also want to make sure the boat weighs in at 6,000 lbs or less sitting on the trailer.

 

[tazrig]

Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

Why did you switch to the alphas? New boat or out-drive replacement?

Complete new power package. Alpha 1 gen 2 drives and 5.7 L Mercrusier motors. The MC-1's never gave me any trouble but I had a friend in the business so I got a deal for the whole package I couldn't pass up. + the person he dealt with took the old motors, transom assemblies and drives in trade.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

Those MC-1 drives had a habit of of snapping the pinion gear off of the vertical shaft in the lower unit. the shaft diameter was too small, even for a 165. Not a real expensive repair if your doing the work your self, but darn annoying if your left in the middle of the lake.

Ayuh,.... While there is abit of an issue there, I disagree with the diagnosis,...

The vertical shaft snaps at the O-ring groove...
That issue wasn't dealt with by Merc til the mid/ late 80s, when the O-ring groove was deleted...

The MC-1, is just as strong as Most of the Alpha 1s, up to nearly end end of the Alpha 1s...
'n if a 165hp snapped it, it'd probably been run aground, Before, 'n cracked it...

 

[cecho]

Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

What would be involved if I wanted to take on a project boat to repower? I found an interesting cabin cruiser with a fly bridge that has a "working" Ford 302 I think... It's a Mercruiser 188 at least. It could be a good project boat to put a Chevy 350 into... assuming it's possible. If I did that I'd want to budget the repower cost to around $2000-$4000.