Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look for?

Bondo

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Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

What would be involved if I wanted to take on a project boat to repower? I found an interesting cabin cruiser with a fly bridge that has a "working" Ford 302 I think... It's a Mercruiser 188 at least. It could be a good project boat to put a Chevy 350 into... assuming it's possible. If I did that I'd want to budget the repower cost to around $2000-$4000.

View attachment 180831View attachment 180832

Ayuh,.... You'd end up replacin' Everything, from the Pulleys to the Prop...

Not only would ya be goin' from Ford to Chevy, you'd probably be goin' from Older to Newer...
 

cecho

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Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

Is that reasonable to do on a $3000 budget?
 

Bondo

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Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

Is that reasonable to do on a $3000 budget?

Ayuh,.... If you could buy the donor driveline for that...
 

cecho

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Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

Is there anything on the outdrive that would be reusable?
 

wrench 3

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Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

Huh, I had twin MC-1's before I switched to the alpha's 22 years ago and never had that problem but it could have been having had twins it never applied enough torque to snap the pin. I only had the drives for 2-3 years before I switched to the alpha's so I may have just been lucky too. How often did this happen to you?
I've seen two fail. One was a 165 and one was an 888. Plus I've heard of similar stories. They were both in the last ten years, so they had a lot of hours on them.
 

wrench 3

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Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

Ayuh,.... While there is abit of an issue there, I disagree with the diagnosis,...

The vertical shaft snaps at the O-ring groove...
That issue wasn't dealt with by Merc til the mid/ late 80s, when the O-ring groove was deleted...

The MC-1, is just as strong as Most of the Alpha 1s, up to nearly end end of the Alpha 1s...
'n if a 165hp snapped it, it'd probably been run aground, Before, 'n cracked it...

Mercruiser enlarged the diameter of lower end of the shaft when the brought out the Alpha One in '85/'86.
 

cecho

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Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

I just picked up a 79 20 foot Tiara 2000 Overniter with the MC-1 and 305 engine. The engine looks newer than the out drive and the Hobbs shows less than 600 hours (Don't remember exactly). It's currently winterized, but I'm planning on using it next month some time. I want to run and test the engine before I do. What would you recommend I do before I take it to the lake. Check and/or replace plugs, wires, distributor cap, hoses, impeller and batteries was my first guess.

The days are touching 70 degrees once in a a while but the nights are still in the mid 20's. If I use this boat several times before the last freeze what's the most economical way to keep the block from breaking?

It also has a retractable mount for a kicker on the back. That's something I'd eventually like to add for trolling and redundancy. Any idea what size motor I should look for?
 

Stevens520

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Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

What would be involved if I wanted to take on a project boat to repower? I found an interesting cabin cruiser with a fly bridge that has a "working" Ford 302 I think... It's a Mercruiser 188 at least. It could be a good project boat to put a Chevy 350 into... assuming it's possible. If I did that I'd want to budget the repower cost to around $2000-$4000.

View attachment 180831View attachment 180832
That's a 888 with a 4 barrel carb sitting on that (not factory). From the looks of the wood and leave sitting down in the bilge, the cost of a re-power would be the least of your worries. Redoing decks,stringers and transom could cost $$$. Being an old Bayliner,that could very well the case with that boat.
 

cecho

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Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

That's why I went with this one instead. :)

IMG_20130209_145149.jpg

It does have a broken skeg and damaged prop. I took a chance on it though. The boat end engine look to be in excellent condition. If I had to replace the out-drive I think it'd be worth it.
 

Stevens520

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Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

oooo Tiara.....good move! Much better boat.:encouragement:
 

cecho

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Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

Thanks, I read some really good things about the boat and really liked the layout... and the "Porta-Potti." :D

Here's the prop and skeg
image3.jpg

Here's the "Porta-Potti".
image.jpg


The "Porta-Potti" sold me. I've never seen one in a cuddy cabin like that.
 

Stevens520

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Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

The head was a requirement that the admiral set when we went boat shopping too. Would have loved to drag home a Tiara, but the budget was set lower. Starcraft tinnies are much easier to rebuild if needed.Your list of checks looks good, just be sure to give the bellows a good look too. With a kicker, I'd think a 9.9-15 hp would work well. The most efficient way to keep the block from cracking if you plan to run it before the freeze danger ends, would be to find heated storage and hope the power don't go out; or you could just make sure the block is good and drained.
 

wrench 3

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Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

I had a 5.5hp that we put on a 22' cuddy as a kicker. It surprised me how well it worked. Had no trouble steering into a good wind.
A prop shop that does casting repairs could probably repair that skeg without stripping the housing. The prop doesn't look too bad in the picture. If the basic shape is OK, any minor damage on the edges can be straightened with two hammers. small nicks will not have a major affect, but any rough edges should be filed smooth. On the other hand, it looks like it would make an OK spare. It's always a good idea to carry a spare prop and the tools to change it.
If your draining the block, don't forget to drain the exhaust manifolds, exhaust elbows, water circulation pump and the power steering cooler.
 
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cecho

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Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

Here are better images showing the prop damage.

IMG_20130210_085748.jpgIMG_20130210_085755.jpg
 

wrench 3

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Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

You would need heat to straighten that blade and it would still be iffy on the pitch. However, if you have heat it would still be good for a spare.
Did you read my edit on the last post re draining the engine?
 

cecho

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Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

I did not see the edit, thanks for pointing that out.
 

tazrig

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Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

That's why I went with this one instead. :)

View attachment 181412

It does have a broken skeg and damaged prop. I took a chance on it though. The boat end engine look to be in excellent condition. If I had to replace the out-drive I think it'd be worth it.

Excellent choice. Tiara is a good solid high end boat with a great reputation by anyone's standards! I would just replace or have the prop professionally refinished though rather than trying to fix it your self. They are cheap enough and you won't run the risk of having a prop that is out of balance which can potentially put stress on your shaft leading to premature bearing failure (not to mention annoying vibration, failure to reach WOT and less than optimum fuel efficiency) and water egress into the lower unit.
 
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cecho

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Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

Should I inspect and replace if needed or just replace the bellows and impeller any way? I don't believe the boat was used last year and was only used for a few hours the year before before being winterized. When I take the drive off the inspect the bellows what else should I look at and/or replace? What kind of grease should I use? Will marine grease be fine?

I believe the trim sending unit is bad, where can I find another one? What special tools will I need to do these jobs if any? I have two large Mercury Marine service manuals that came with the boat. Volume 1 and Volume II.

Two of the hoses (to the exhaust manifolds) on the engine are hard and should be replaced. Where is a good place to get those?

At what point should the anode be replaced?

How long should the drive hold a vacuum and pressure when I test the drive for leaks?

Does the alpha 1 require special tools to replace the seals? I did the upper and lower seals on a few OMC drives. I was able to use exhaust tube adapters to get the seals in.
 

tazrig

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Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

Should I inspect and replace if needed or just replace the bellows and impeller any way? I don't believe the boat was used last year and was only used for a few hours the year before before being winterized. When I take the drive off the inspect the bellows what else should I look at and/or replace? What kind of grease should I use? Will marine grease be fine?

I believe the trim sending unit is bad, where can I find another one? What special tools will I need to do these jobs if any? I have two large Mercury Marine service manuals that came with the boat. Volume 1 and Volume II.

Two of the hoses (to the exhaust manifolds) on the engine are hard and should be replaced. Where is a good place to get those?

At what point should the anode be replaced?

How long should the drive hold a vacuum and pressure when I test the drive for leaks?

Does the alpha 1 require special tools to replace the seals? I did the upper and lower seals on a few OMC drives. I was able to use exhaust tube adapters to get the seals in.

Check the bellows, if you see dry rot or cracks/holes then replace. The impeller should be replaces every 2 years just as a precaution whether used or not. They are cheap easy to replace and can cause such problems when they go it's just better to replace every 2 years and be safe. The trim sending units go bad all the time. even if you fix them (you don't really need them) they won't stay accurate for long. Just don't trim your engines way up when running.

If you are talking about the small water hoses going into the bottom of the mainfolds then, yes, replace. If you're talking about the big ones coming out of the top of them (exhaust) those are supposed to be hard and can last for decades. Usually only need to be replaced if they are leaking.

Here is a real useful link which should cover most of your other questions. (tools, manuals, tests, video's etc.)

http://forums.iboats.com/mercruiser...cellaneous-mercruiser-information-329915.html

If the oil in the drive is not milky (no water contamination) then a 10-15 minute pressure test while you apply soapy water on the drive looking for leaks should be fine. If is is milky then longer until you find the leak. Remember to replace the drain and fill hole gaskets with every oil change as they can leak in water if you don't and pressure test after you have changed them not before. Also change the oil level check gasket (same as the fill and drain) on the very top of the drive if your alpha has one. Most parts you can get here:

New and Used Boats, Boat Covers, Boat Parts, Propellers, Accessories from iboats.com

anodes should be replaced at the beginning of each season. Salt water eats them much faster than fresh but still, cheap parts, once a year and be safe. Some will say only after they have degraded 50% but up to you.

Again congrats! thats a great boat!
 

wrench 3

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Re: Looking for a used i/o boat, which outdrives should I avoid? Which should I look

The replacement trim sender for the Alphas has the wires molded into the sender, instead of screw terminals like the original equipment. These units seam to be quite reliable, but are a pain in the butt to install. You are supposed to remove the bell housing and the gimbel ring, but with a couple of 1/4 drive extensions, a universal and a lot of Patience the wiring can be installed. While you have the drive off, inspect and grease the universal joints. Standard marine grease will do for the "U" joints but a special grease is needed for the drive shaft splines.
With the Alpha drives you need special tools just to get at the seals.
The trim limit switch gives a lot of trouble on these units. I have mine bypassed and just watch the gauger carefully when trimming.
 
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