Some people use several different methods of re-assembling the con-rod and rollers with success but I like to put the rollers back one at a time.
The con rod will want to "walk" on the wrist pin and it will be difficult to get between the crank cheeks.. At any rate, you can look up some past posts (not mine) about how to guide the big end. After getting the big end around the crankpin, I like to grease the bearing cages and work them around the crankpin. Then, I grease each roller individually and inset into the bearing cage individually, counting all 16 so I know none are missing. Then I work the rod cap through the reed opening in the correct orientation--you DID not the direction the cap fits on the rod, didn't you? Finally I gently snug--not even tight, just take out the slop--the rod bolts and rotate the crank a couple of times. This will true the rod cap. Finally, with a pencil point or scribe I check the ground flats for trueness and tighten the cap bolts to 190 INCH pounds.
It IS slow going, you need patience, and sometimes they fight you but then again, sometimes they cooperate and go in without a fuss.
By the way: retrieving rollers with a magnet is a bad idea: They are dead hard and will instantly be magnetized to some degree. THEN, If any steel enters the bearing area, they will attract it instead of letting oil flush it out, accelerating roller and crankpin wear. Better to retrieve them with a greased rod. It is not all gloom and doom because most times no steel will get into the bearing area but if you have another set of rollers lying about, use them. I mention this so others will not make the same mistake.
