Lucky guy gets a 1966 Evinrude 80 free!

[chestypuller]

now how do i wire it up to test start it?

 

[chestypuller]

i can get it to crank i just cant get spark. not sure if i need to hook a wire up or something.

 

[Chris1956]

Well, that looks to have magneto ignition. So remove the pulley cover and use a strip of a business card dipped in alcohol to clean the points. Be sure to get both sets of points. Now look to see if they are burnt or dirty. If so, clean them up. Gap them to .020" and see if spark returns. (You may want to remove the black, thin wire that connects to the side of the distributor, as that is the spark killer wire.) If no spark, you likely have condenser or coil or wiring issues.

BTW you will want to run that motor in a barrel of water to cool it.

 

[chestypuller]

Do you happen to know what the switch type device is that is rubbing on the top area of the magneto pully looks like maybe a yellow wire, one side doesnt have anything connected to it. i think it might be some kinda safety switch. so remove the black wire held on by a hex nut on a stud? is it supposed to be gounded to kill it and open to run?

 

[F_R]

That is a safety switch to keep from starting it at high throttle settings. Both of those wire tabs are the same thing, only one is used. It has absolutely nothing to do with spark.

 

[chestypuller]

well cleaned and gapped points, still nothing,

took magneto off engine and took bottom off, cleaned rotor/cap, and button still no spark.. this is turing with with a drill on the bench pretty fast.

so im guessing its the coil or magneto itself? anyone have any ohm specs for the coil and what kind of other testing can i do on this?


i spun it fast with multimeter on ac volts on the button with the cap off, and it read i believe 18v ac

 

[chestypuller]

No Title

Well pulled it back apart and found melted wire. I bet someone tried 12 v to the post. I will solder wire back in and re insulate and try again

 

[F_R]

When you get it back together, rig up a spark gap off the coil button to ground. That thing should jump a strong spark by just rotating the pulley as fast as you can turn it by hand (not "spinning" it, more like cranking speed)

 

[chestypuller]

Well soldered can get spark but small jump off button maybe 16th inch or so but brite blue maybe I should go back to adjust points again?

 

[Chris1956]

Blue is good. Make sure points are clean and gapped properly. See if it will fire a spark plug. Spinning by hand will easily be fast enough to fire a spark plug, if the magneto is good. Did the coil have any cracks? If so, replace it. Be prepared for sticker shock.

 

[chestypuller]

Could the condenser be a issue?

 

[Chris1956]

Normally a bad condenser would kill spark, and you have some spark. Of course they are cheap enough to replace, if in doubt.

 

[chestypuller]

Normally a bad condenser would kill spark, and you have some spark. Of course they are cheap enough to replace, if in doubt.

well if its not the condenser im Gonna modify the cap to accept a live 12v car coil and ditch the mag coil. Instead of facing sticker shock

 

[chestypuller]

Ohm'd the condenser and its no reading. Must be a broken circuit

 

[chestypuller]

No Title

Disassembled to see if it could be fixed. I thinkb its beyond my skill set

 

[chestypuller]

Tested button with dvm on acv turned with drill and got up to 111vac ! Wow. I bet with a Working condenser we might have a winner.. gonna head to checker automotive in a few hours

 

[chestypuller]

Just got a working one off ebay for 40$ entire unit! We will see when it gets here...

 

[F_R]

If it wasn't bad, it is now.

 

[chestypuller]

Hats max rpm to make it go bad? 4000rpm?

 

[Chris1956]

I presume you mean max RPM for running motor? Probably it is 4500 - 5000.

BTW - the correct procedure for checking a condenser is to use a multimeter. Set the leads one way and use Rx1 Ohm scale to charge the condenser. Now quickly switch the leads and change the meter to read low DC voltage. Look for a spike on the meter for just a moment. That is a good condenser (or capacitor). Of course the test is tricky, and condensers are real cheap to replace.