"Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

I need help if any one can... I about to burn the damn thing to the ground all because the stringers don't want to cooperate. I know It can not be as hard as I am making it, but for what ever reason I can not get them right.

So heres the deal. I have a total of 6 stingers in the middle of the boat. I know that the floor lays on the outside of the hull on both sides. So I did the ol pen and stick method to get the line of the boat on the bottom. I cut the stringer bottoms layed them in there they all fit great. they matched the lines awesome. So then I went to get the height of the stringers. I know that the bulkheads match where the floor should go. I believe they are 100% on. I put a level on them and the are completly level.

So I snap a chalk line from one bulkhead to the other.Thinking that will give me perfect height. Here is what that looked like.



You can see that both sides fit flush to the side. As I move the board further to the front of the boat the more and more it becomes further and further off the side of the hull.







and in this one it will only match on the outside. There will be little pieces of wood that will close the gap on the ends.

So long story short. Is there a proper way to measure stringer height? Because I am not doing it correctly.

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Yesterday was my last day off, I got some boat work done but got no where near what I wanted to get done. Partly cause of the stringers that I cut 4 times. More about that later lets start with the good stuff first cause its positive.

First the drain hole. We talked about its horrible location, and discussed moving so I did that. I filled all 3 holes then drilled a bigger hole in the middle and a little lower. Now this did cause some issues. First the middle stringer. It went all the back so I trimmed that and I put the two blocks of plywood on the sides so I had to trim that. Heres the completed project.










I thought that turned out pretty good nearly level and now I can glass and direct the water where wanted.

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

So then I fought with all the stringers in the middle section and posted above. I could get them level on both ends but never in the middle. So After making the post above, I just slowed down. I took a measurement every inch and then made a pattern. Cut it and walah. That took way to much time and the stringers them self cost me over $100 in wasted wood. That really hurt. But I rushed and paid the price. The pics are above that are close to what they look like now they just dip a little in the middle so no new pics.

Then I made the final grind over the entire boat. Mothernature was nice enough to go overcast just as I put my sweatshirt on in 85 degree weather. Cleaned everything scuffed it and now is ready to PB all stringers in, I was only able to get the very back ones , the back bulkhead completely done. I started on the inside two in front, got most way done but they need fillets. So I have to finish those, do the middle two and outside ones completely.

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Ok so couple questions, how long do I have before I have to rough up the areas that just got PB? Can I put braces in the middle of the two inside stringer now to help when I push the middle stringers up against the strake? I guess to add to that question should I wait until there is glass on them first?

This is what I am talking about. This is preglass mock up.



Now I know I am talking about inside and middle stringers please remember that the outside stringers are not pictured (not sure why)

So there is my update, kinda disappointed cause I wanted to flip the boat this weekend and got no where close to that. I also only have a half bucket left of resin. So I am going to run out when glassing. Im not sure how much I will need But I would have to assume that its more then I have. Should I do my 2 layers of 1708 at the same time to get the wet on wet and do as much as I can with what I have? Or do everything in 1708 once and then go back and do the second layer as resin permits? I want to do what ever method requires the least amount of grinding. Like thats a big surprise right. Im going hull/up/over/down/hull all in one piece. Kinda like friscos hero move. If you have watched his Carlson stringer video you know what im talking about.
I am hoping to get all stringers completely PB this weekend and as much glassed as possible. Then flip that bad boy and get it ready for paint.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Gotta run to work and then go to school tonight, so I am not going to have time to get all caught up with what you have been up to, but if no one has chimed in by tomorrow morning, I'll get you some answers...
To answer one question about how long do you have with PB...short answer, If it gets "Sticky/Tacky when you wipe it down with Acetone, usually good to go...if not, re-grind...

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Weekend update...

Ran out of cabosil after making 1 batch of PB. Got 1 stringer partly glued in. Nothing else to report will be a while until supplies can be ordered.

I was hoping to get all the stringers in so I could flip it to sand. But no such luck.....

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

So during the wait Im trying to figure out how much more resin I need to get. I believe I have more then enough fiberglass I have nearly all of what I ordered (25yds) of 1.5 CSm left and about 4 yards of 1708 left. I have cut 14 yards of 1708 for the stringers and bulkheads.

14sq yards should need about 4 gallons of resin for just the 1708, is that Correct? I have about 2.5 gallons of resin.

So I want to get:
1 gallon of glass bubbles
4 gallons of cabosil
and 2 buckets of resin

How to do this cost effective? I can buy it a gallon at a time at the BOX stores for 35 a gallon. and not pay shipping or buy it all at one time and pay shipping of $150 plus the supplies.

I come up with damn near the same price either way I do it. I have to be worried about how long the resin has been on the shelf. Also is it sufficient enough to do my layups. I will get a picture Of the resin at lunch,if I could get some recommendations to what you think.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Box store resin has WAX in it. USC resin does not. If you do all your layups "Wet on Wet" then you won't have any issues with the waxed resin. For the SAME price I'd go with USC. Where are you Located? There may be a Distributor closer to you so you could save on shipping. A gallon of resin wets out approx. 4 yards of mat and or 1708 cloth IF you don't overdo it with the resin. You also have to consider what you'll use for PB. Bedding in and Filleting stringers, Transoms, and decks can take 3 gallons of resin easily. I'd get 5 gallons of Cabosil and only 1/2 of the Glass bubbles. You only need them for Fairing material which hopefully you won't need all that much.

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

I'm in Kansas, land locked just like you. I used GT1M supplier last time, they were great the only problem is that I am paying for huge shipping cost with frieght. And I have to wait for it to get here. At least with the box stores there is 15 gallons available to me.

So lets say I go the box store route, and I planned on doing wet on wet. What issues are going to arise? I should neary be done with all my fillets. I need to lay the 2 outmost stringers, and fillet the 2 most inner stringers. and fillet the floor around the gunwhales when that time comes. Should I just not risk it and just by 10 gallons eat the shipping?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

I just sent you a PM

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Thanks for the PM... I called the guy, I think I talked to him before when I bought from FL last time. My biggest problem is paying $160 when I paid $77 the first time. All because of being landed locked Oh well I may just go ahead and do it so I don't have to wait on shipping. My wife is going to the Ozarks this weekend and she drives right past there, so I may just have her pick it up on the way back.

Im got some questions on painting my boat if your still on here!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Shipping from Missouri is $160 to Kansas for 10 gals of Resin?

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

So I started grinding on the Cap yesterday while Im waiting for my supplies to get here. Question is should I grind all the way down to the glass or just rough it up. Its not flaking off but it is dull. I plan on changing the color completely so what is the best recommendation?

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

No, no his price is $160, compared to the $77 I originally bought for. I have no idea what shipping is. Since the wife was headed that way this weekend I didn't even ask.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

PM Sent

 

[Bomber Goober]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

I took mine all the way down to the glass on my cap, but i had really bad flaking. Are you going to paint it or gelcoat it? IMO you could paint over it once it is ruffed up. If gel coating I would take it down to glass or very close due to the thickness of gelcoat you will need to apply.

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Thanks for the PM WOG!

Im really not sure on Gel Coating or paint. I really want to go the cheaper route. IF I can just rough everything up and then paint it I may go that route. I want to try and come up with a good color combo though. I think Im gonna go black on the bottom for sure. Just not sure on everything else.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

With the Tractor Paint you can just about get any color combination you want. If the Flake is not poking through the surface and you can get a smooth surface after sanding with 120 grit then you should be good to go. I recommend using 2 coats of a High Build Primer to make certain you get a good base over the flake. SEM makes a good Aerosol High Build Primer that I used on the Blue Flamingo. Worked really well.

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

What if I want to add flake to my new paint job is that possible?

 

[GT1000000]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

What if I want to add flake to my new paint job is that possible?

Unless you have experience, the right kind of base color and clearcoat, a spray booth and the right spraying equipment...you may not be happy with the results...Metalflake paints are specially formulated in a semi-transparent base that won't obscure the flake, other flakes are incorporated in clear coats...the experience part comes from knowing how to spray it perfectly even to avoid "zebra" striping, streaking and/or a splotchy looking surface...
You should also be shooting it in a controlled environment like a spray booth while wearing the proper PPE, because most of the stuff is toxic and you need to properly control temps and humidity while spraying...
Sorry...