MC1 Shifts into Reverse but no Forward

[Andy J]

Hey everyone, been a while since I posted as trying to fix stuff on my own instead of asking a bunch of Newbie questions....

Put the boat in the lake this morning, backed off the trailer fine then no forward. Gave up and brought back home to find not shifting into forward. Here is what I know...
- Control lever is stiff compared to before shifting into reverse or forward. I removed the shift cable from the arm at the transom and control level is easy to move. Assume it's in the Stern drive.
- With cable to stern drive removed I can shift by hand into reverse ( which locks prop), moving cable opposite direction into forward prop still free wheels.

If I could get some direction to start troubleshooting I would appreciate it, don't want to take a bunch of stuff apart not needed.

Appreciate any help,

Andy J

 

[Andy J]

Didn't get any direction so started disassembly today... Dropped lower unit and can shift into forward and reverse by turning the shift shaft by hand, think no problem in lower unit.
Next removed upper unit and shift cable seems to operate fine when operating remote control, still don't understand why stern drive wouldn't shift into forward, mechanically everything seems to work.

Guess tomorrow will troubleshoot more, if anyone has had this problem I would appreciate any advice. Just trying to get her back on the water.

TIA

 

[Bt Doctur]

would have been better of removing it as a unit to check the shift spool

 

[zellerj]

The same thing happened to me a few years ago. Replaced the lower shift cable and that fixed it. There is a good explanation of the shifting mechanism in the stickies. Briefly, when the lower shift cable is working correctly, the motor turns off for a split second and this takes the pressure off of the gear cogs so that it can shift into forward. If the cable has any friction or wear at all, the momentary engine kill does not happen and the lower unit will not shift. Make sure to watch some YouTube videos on how to do the replacement. The mistake I made was pulling out the old cable too soon in the process so that when the new cable arrived from the store I had no guide for feeding the new one back through the transom. Don't make that mistake. Took about 4 hours to get it threaded through all of the "stuff" the way it was suppose to go to make its way onto the top of the engine. A tracer line or using the old able as a guide solves this. The job is not hard if you follow directions.

 

[Andy J]

Zellerj, appreciate the reply. My first boat so still learning..... Finding info is not so easy as you must know the technical terms for the components otherwise you don't get anything on a search.

I read the sticky on the interrupt switch today and makes sense as it works on force required to move the lower shift cable. When I had my boat out Sat it would shift into reverse fine but engine died and control was stiff when shifting into forward.

Took it home and disconnected the lower cable and shifted it by hand while my wife checked the propeller, would shift into reverse but not forward ( shifted the cable full stroke).

Removed stern drive and can turn the shaft shifting the lower end by hand to forward/reverse with little effort. Still a mystery why moving the cable by hand wouldn't shift it into forward. Ordered new lower cable today and will see what happens.

Thanks for your input

 

[Bt Doctur]

everything has to move freely including the shaft going thru the exaust cavity. assemble the drive and check to see if the brass shoe is in a straight line when in fwd.

 

[Andy J]

Everything moves freely independently, will see what happens when assembled. The brass shaft in the exhaust cavity has a bunch of radial motion, shaft doesn't look worn so I assume this is normal.

Been looking at Utube videos on lower cable installs so will give that a try when new cable comes in. With lower cable disconnected on both ends it feels a little rough, maybe liner or cable is damaged inside. Hopefully the cause of my problems.

 

[Bt Doctur]

if it does not feel baby bottom smooth replace it

 

[Bt Doctur]

this is full fwd, straight ahead

 

[Andy J]

I figured why it had to be straight during removal... problem was couldn't get into forward as something was jammed.

5 weeks into my first boat and still in steep learning mode..... Hard to find the correct info and parts for my MC-1 stern drive searching around, but learning.

On the splined shifting shaft in the lower unit I have a spring washer on the top, don't see that in any of the exploded views I can find. Maybe there to remove axial slop in the brass shaft???? Or could be source of my binding?

 

[Bt Doctur]

No, there is a flat SS washer that goes on the shaft .Look in here http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Servmanl/6/6covr3.pdf

 

[Andy J]

I'll go out to the shop and take a couple pict's for clarification... I have a SS washer on the brass shaft under the coterpin where the shaft comes out of the upper unit to connect to the lower.

I tried your link provided but only have the table of contents... maybe I'm doing something wrong as usual LOL

 

[Bt Doctur]

 

[Andy J]

This is how I found it during disassembly, according to your info it's incorrect.

This is how the Bellville or spring washer was installed, no rubber gasket underneath.



Brass shift shaft with thin washer placement



Thin washer took shape of Bellville, the cotter pin left dents, was in a bind possibly one cause of the shift problem.



I can't find a exploded view of the MC-1 that shows the rubber and washer you describe. Serial # of my MC-1 is 3418026, any reference material or directional appreciated.

 

[Bt Doctur]

 

[Andy J]

BT,

Thanks for the exploded view. After posting the last pict's I looked closer and there is a rubber washer I dug it out. I have the larger washer but not the smaller one #49, do you think I can survive without it?



Also the center of the lower water pump housing is melted and needs replaced along with the other parts. I purchased a Seloc manual covering my Stern Drive but doesn't really give good exploded views or part #'s. I looked at the exploded view on this site a has similar view than you sent except upper washer appears to have a larger ID.

Does the brass shaft rest on the top washer or pass through the upper washer and rest on the lower washer and rubber washer? Sorry for all the questions just wanting to do the job correctly and learn the proper way to repair.

Thanks for your patience and sticking with me on this.

 

[nola mike]

The shaft rests on top of the washer (keeps the shaft high enough to engage the shoe when you reinstall the drive). Check out the official merc manuals on boatinfo.no

 

[Bt Doctur]

No , you need a SS flat washer in there, thats all

 

[Andy J]

Thanks, I ordered the washers and rubber washer to certain I have the correct parts.

 

[Andy J]

Guys,

I removed the original lower cable from the gimbal threaded from the inside..... was a pain LOL. Problem is need to tap from the outside for the new cable as I have read on several post, post say to use 1/4- 18 tap but my original and new cable have 1/2 threads that appear to have a 18 pitch......
Anyone done this conversion? Any help appreciated