Mercruiser 140 3.0 Makeover

[chevymaher]

You go goldie. I am just still following you from the hull section. I am taking my engine apart now see what it needs. Since it is winter and zero degrees and there isn't much hull glassing right now.

Myself i would grumble but go with it. There is plenty of gasket under there.

 

[Goldie627]

You go goldie. I am just still following you from the hull section. I am taking my engine apart now see what it needs. Since it is winter and zero degrees and there isn't much hull glassing right now.

Myself i would grumble but go with it. There is plenty of gasket under there.

thanks chevy, your very kind, and grumbling i am indeed! :rant: :sour::facepalm:

like frisco boater said "you lean how to do something after you get done with it" :joyous:

 

[Goldie627]

Any tips on preventing the kork gasket side rails from pooping out? Don't torque it to spec? Let the side rails completely cure on the pan before installation? Attempt to tighten to spec, then stop if it starts to poop out?

 

[chevymaher]

That is the way. Ultra black it to the pan, Put the bolts in snugly. Wait till it cures then tighten.

 

[Rick Stephens]

If you use a rubber cement type of sealant to anchor the rail gaskets on one side, it will set up. I use Coppercoat - always have. Let it dry to not tacky on both the cork and the rail before sticking the two together. Then, especially in your case, barely snug the bolts and let the RTV cure, for a week if you want, before tightening. It only needs to pull down snug on the gasket, not crush tight.

 

[fishrdan]

Yep, didn't let the high-tack sealant cure, before sticking the gasket to the pan.... The reason the gasket slipped is there was slippery stuff top/bottom of the gasket, and it's a thick pliable gasket.. Better to use no sealant on the gasket, than slippery stuff on both sides. Actually, the gasket can be put on dry, with RTV at the very end(s). But most of us use sealant to make sure the gasket doesn't spring a leak in the future.

I hate to say it, but I'd start over with the pan gasket. It's a headache, but better now than when it's in the boat, or a year from now.

Reason to use the "roll" of tape is, it's a uniform thickness, you won't get that wrapping electrical tape around the crank since some areas the tape will stretch...

 

[Goldie627]

Thanks guys, I just ordered a new gasket, will be here 2maro, im on my way to remove the oil pan. I plan to pout the whole time while cleaning up the surfaces :facepalm::nod::biggrin1:

Whats odd is that i called felpro and they recommend cork rails and rubber end pieces all dry except for on the block in the corners where the 90 degree bends are and anywhere the rubber and cork overlap. They say a small amount of rtv in those areas. This is odd because i haven't found hardly anybody who installs with the manufacturer's recommendations. The overwhelming majority uses something or a combination of sealants / adhesive to get no leaks. I even noticed a few guys using vaseline on one side of cork rails!

2nd time around is the charm!!!

1. make sure oil pan sides are FLAT, make sure bolt holes in oil pan are FLAT
2. clean surfaces, wipe down with acetone or break cleaner
3. apply a THIN layer of high tack gasket sealant to cork rails, allow it to get tacky but "NOT" stick to your finger
4. apply cork rails to oil pan
5. apply a THIN layer of rtv on the block, NOT a fat goey bead :facepalm:
6. apply a THIN layer of rtv to the timing cover and main bearing cap areas that will meet the oil pan
7. install the two rubber end gaskets
8. apply a thin to medium layer of rtv to the tops of the rubber gaskets
9. in the corners where the gaskets meet add a lil extra rtv (under, between and above overlaps)
10. install the oil pan
11. tighten to spec, however, STOP if the gasket starts to press out
12. wait a day or two then try to tighten to spec again stopping immediately if the gasket starts to press out
13. don't be caught up on torque spec, judge by the gasket, if it tries to move??? STOP

how does this sound? am i missing anything? should i do the rubber gaskets dry (except for the corners of course)?

 

[Rick Stephens]

I wouldn't tighten to spec until after cure. Just use a socket driver with appropriate socket and tighten enough to take out any gaps. Walk away until cured.

 

[fishrdan]

Agree with Rick, tighten until the gaskets have even squish, let cure, then torque. Biggest thing, avoid air gaps/pockets...

 

[Goldie627]

In my mercuiser service manual #10, there are 2 sections for cooling, seawater and contained. I'm water cooled. It talks about a water heater and says to use perfect seal on the bolt threads but makes no mention of the circulation pump gasket going on dry or with some kind of sealant.

is there a better manual than the mercuiser service manual #10? Maybe one that doesnt assume you know certain things and possibly more noob friendly?

any suggestions on the circulation water pump installation?

 

[Rick Stephens]

In my mercuiser service manual #10, there are 2 sections for cooling, seawater and contained. I'm water cooled. It talks about a water heater and says to use perfect seal on the bolt threads but makes no mention of the circulation pump gasket going on dry or with some kind of sealant.

is there a better manual than the mercuiser service manual #10? Maybe one that doesnt assume you know certain things and possibly more noob friendly?

any suggestions on the circulation water pump installation?

I installed my water pump using my favorite Coppercoat. Same as a automotive install, I didn't even think to look at the manual. It really wouldn't matter, Perfect Seal, RTV, pretty much anything will take care of a circ pump.

RIck

 

[fishrdan]

Same as Rick, installed like an automotive water pump, but I used Permatex #3. I also put some of that sealant on the bolt threads, to keep them from rusting in the block (same as head bolts).

Mercruiser manual is the best you'll find.