I wd not throw away the old setup - learn how to swap it out in a pinch. also - the ignitor 1 series are compatible with standard coils, the 2 isnt - so you will need 2 sets in an emergency if you go ignitor 2.
As for the resistor wire, very few (iirc) used that, ooooold fords in the 60s and 70s perhaps - ither way, some coils DO care if you "throw" 12v at it or not, thats why they print on most coils (use an external ballast resistor" right on the front!
Be mindful of what im saying. Points can last you years and years.
it goes like this: you want around 3-3.5 TOTAL ohms while running for a points setup. SO a coil with a primary (the one stated on the specs) resistance of say 2 wd be perfect with a resistor of anywhere from 1.2 to 1.8.
Now the Bosch "blue" coils with 3 or 3.3 have no resistor.
Whats the difference? well the bosch cant use the resistor, which means you cant wire in the slave solenoid "i" terminal to bypass the ballast resistor for a boost while starting - THIS MAKES ALL THE DIFFERENCE. My points setups ALL start at the turn of a key. 99% of ppl have no clue about the basics.
** Being able to bypass the external resistor during cranking is what will make your motor start the 1st swing vs not starting for 5-25 seconds or at all. The slave solenoid i mentioned comes with a special "i" terminal to do this. You CANNOT wire the starter wire to this as you starter will continually be engaged once its running. That is why you a: make sure you have the correct coil type, b: mount the coil vertical or 45 degrees max, c: have an inline ballast resistor d: wire in a slave solenoid with the "i" terminal going to the coil + sign.
Listen to what im saying - write it in stone. I swapped out 4 setups last week on ppls boats-
So your options are:
Ignitor one (compatible with points - benefit: easier to intermix with existing setup, can burn out when key left on/not running)
Ignitor 2 (incompatible with points coil, but you get the variable dwell AND it wont burn out if you accidentally leave the key in on while not running)
If you are not comfortable swapping out base plates etc, then I HIGHLY recommend keeping a preset coil as a backup (mark the plug wires and coil cap, and after timing has been set, make a scribe on backup distributor AND engine block so you can literally bolt it in and keep going) + with a basic diagram to pop in if ur in trouble somewhere out there. Shipping lanes arent user friendly when you coil has popped and ur on anchor.
Also - the pertronix units run on 12V CONSTANT, i bet u a six pack you do not have a resistor wire - IF you do be very carefull and bypass this for pertronix hook up.
If anything wire a separate wire for pertronix that goes "on" when the key is on - that reads 12v+. this is where probably 99.9% of failed units fail, from incorrect installation.
yes electronic is a gr8 upgrade but dont think its the best thing since sliced bread, familiarize yourself in the event of an emergency. Yes - maybe u might learn it could save lives.
hth
