Mercruiser 3.0 ddis headache

DEWBAD

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Jun 24, 2018
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Got a mercruiser 3.0 with ddis trying to test ignition coil with ohm meter. The primary coil resistance reads 3.0 on the terminals a to b & a to c . The resistance range says it needs to be between 1.9 to 2.5 does that mean it’s bad?. The high voltage towers readings are 13.7 ohms and that’s is within the resistance range it says it should be within 11.3 - 15.5 ohms . Thanks
 

alldodge

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Got a mercruiser 3.0 with ddis trying to test ignition coil with ohm meter. The primary coil resistance reads 3.0 on the terminals a to b & a to c . The resistance range says it needs to be between 1.9 to 2.5 does that mean it’s bad?. The high voltage towers readings are 13.7 ohms and that’s is within the resistance range it says it should be within 11.3 - 15.5 ohms . Thanks

I would say the 3.0 compared to the 2.9 can be within the accuracy of the meter. So right not I would accept the reads as good.

Is pin (a) to ground 10 meg ohms or more?
What are the voltage readings at pin (a) on both ends with key ON, and is it within 1/2 volt of battery voltage?
 

DEWBAD

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and i test this with all the spark plug wires put back in place on coil ?
 

alldodge

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Slide2.JPGSlide3.JPGSlide4.JPGSlide5.JPG Resistance is without plug wires, and voltages does not matter
 

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DEWBAD

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ok i tested the amplifier i don't get a reading! no voltage at all. but i can still start the motor what gives. when i take the boat out on the water it's a real dog. yes i have all those specs. thanks
 

alldodge

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ok i tested the amplifier i don't get a reading! no voltage at all.

Then testing is not being accomplished correctly.
If it runs its not electrical, acting like a dog is either, incorrect timing, incorrect advance carburetor or compression

Assuming timing has been checked, and your idle is good so not over fueling, if it was over fueling I would expect to see a comment about that. The DDIS is not a great system, but all else would have me checkin advance or compression.

Did this just start or has it slowly gotten worst?
 

DEWBAD

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Jun 24, 2018
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It just started. I will check compression . Just rebuild carb. Changed fuel filters ect.
 

DEWBAD

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I am totally New to this Whole thing , I doing my best to learn and need all the help I can get..
 

achris

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How to compression test.​

What you need to do is the following. These are the correct and complete procedures for checking compressions. All steps are important and there for a reason. Each must be followed completely, and in the order below. Missing any step or doing them out of order will render the whole test as useless. Read through all the steps below (a few times) before doing ANYTHING, so you are familiar with what you will be doing.

Before you start, make sure you have the following. A fully charged battery (of the right size for the engine), a compression tester, a spark plug wrench and either a remote starter switch or another person with you and some light engine oil (2 stoke oil is good for this) and a way of getting a small amount of it into each cylinder. You also need to know the cylinder numbering of the engine. Not all engines number the same way!

  1. Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached. VERY important! And remember to put water on the muffs/flushers while running the engine...
  2. Remove all spark plugs. It’s a good idea to keep the plugs in the order they came out, so you can ‘read’ them and know which cylinder had what plug. It’s also a good idea to double check they are the correct plugs for that engine at this point.
  3. Set the throttle to wide open, and leave it there until ALL checks are complete.
  4. Remove the centre lead from the distributor cap and put it on the engine block, securely. This is so you don’t have any sparks flying around while you are testing.
  5. Using either a ‘remote starter switch’ hooked to the low current side of the starter solenoid or another person operating the ignition switch, turn the engine over a good half dozen times to clear any residual fuel from the cylinders and intake manifold.
  6. Put the compression tester in one of the spark plug holes. Turn the engine over until the reading on the gauge is steady (usually about 5 or 6 compressions).
  7. Record the cylinder compression reading for that cylinder in the ‘dry’ column.
  8. Repeat step 6 and 7 for the rest of the cylinders.
  9. Once all readings are done, squirt a small amount (around a teaspoon) of oil into each cylinder. Replace the spark plugs (but only finger tight is needed) and turn the engine over another half dozen times on the starter (throttle still fully open and the distributor lead still grounded).
  10. Remove all the spark plugs and start checking the cylinder compression pressures again, like in step 6.
  11. Record the cylinders compression reading for that cylinder in the ‘wet’ column.
  12. Repeat step 10 and 11 for the rest of the cylinders.
  13. When all tests are complete, move the throttle back to closed, clean the oil from the spark plugs, check their gap and refit them to the cylinders. Reconnect the centre distributor lead.



You should finish with a table that looks like this...
Cylinder #DryWet
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
 
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