Mercruiser 3.0 No Spark issues

aidanmurphy

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Apr 2, 2022
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Just picked up a new to me 1991 Stingray with a Mercruiser 3.0. Boat ran great the first 5 times I took it out. Last time I was out boat was hard to start, then after I had stopped for a bit would not start back up. I went through the fuel system and it is all good. I hooked up inline spark tester between the ignition coil and distributor and can't find any spark there. I tried disconnecting the tach, and no start still. I have read about trying to disconnect the shift interrupt switch but not sure how. I tried disconnecting the one wire it has to ground on the terminal block but it still did not start / still on spark. PO had replaced the distributor so it is new. Boat ran great first 5 times. Now nothing. Any ideas?
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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27,468
Hello and welcome aboard.

Can you tell us which ignition system you have? (Points or EST)

Assuming points, did you check there was 12v at coil+? Did you look to see that the points were actually opening and closing? Are the points clean and free from corrosion? When was the last time the points were changed?

Chris...
 

aidanmurphy

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I am not exactly sure but I do not think it is points. From what I can tell there is not a +/- terminal on my coil to test. Just two sets of wires coming out of the plugs. I will attach some photos of coil and dist
 

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alldodge

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That's a EST dizzy and check to see if it has 12v on the pink wire going to the coil.

Remove the connector and turn ignition on and measure
 

alldodge

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Going to bed will get back in morning. The in gear switch will keep it from cranking, the safety will keep it from starting but will crank
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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Most I’ve known will still turn over when they are interlocked
Not Mercury factory wiring.. The 'in gear' protection switch has yellow/red wires, that's the cranking circuit. The 'deadman switch' has purple wires, that's ignition.

In gear still has power to the ignition but with not crank, deadman switch remove ignition power but still will crank...

Chris...
 

alldodge

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12V to the coil, check
Need to check the distributor
 

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aidanmurphy

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12V to the coil, check
Need to check the distributor
Just did this test. I am getting no reading / infinite when testing either green or white lead to the dist housing. I don't have a X100 on my multimeter, but I set to x10 and receive a steady 200ohm between white and green.
 
Last edited:

aidanmurphy

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Update: I replaced the pickup coil and motor still turns but wont start up. Hooked up inline spark tester between distributor and ignition coil and there is no spark still. Any ideas?
 

1960 Starflite

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Just something that happened to my 1979 "140". I did most you have covered. Anyway right to my point. Mine has glass fuses, discovered I had voltage at coil until I cranked it. Under load voltage at coil quit. Pulled the ignition fuse, cleaned corrosion off of the ends, replaced, all is well.
 

aidanmurphy

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Just something that happened to my 1979 "140". I did most you have covered. Anyway right to my point. Mine has glass fuses, discovered I had voltage at coil until I cranked it. Under load voltage at coil quit. Pulled the ignition fuse, cleaned corrosion off of the ends, replaced, all is well.
Thanks for the insight, you are speaking of the 15-20AMP fuse? Mine has the fuses on the dash if that is what you mean. I will check that as well
 

alldodge

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Thanks for the insight, you are speaking of the 15-20AMP fuse? Mine has the fuses on the dash if that is what you mean. I will check that as well
No reason to check the fuse because u said it had 12V at the coil
 

aidanmurphy

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Yes, I have 12V at the coil. Also my tach is disconnected at the dash to rule that out.
 
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