Mercruiser 3.0 went boom :(

[keith2k455]

Make sure you don't buy a used motor without hearing it run. Nothing worse than buying a motor and finding it needs rebuilt afterward. As far as what blew your original motor, if it is more than carb adjustment it sounds like both mechanics are going to have an additional charge for that.

 

[uinthas7]

Yeah going to higher altitude should have only made it run richer. I really dont know what cause it, I'd sure like to know. I looked at the plugs and I didn't see any evidence of a lean running motor (white plugs). I called and spoke with Michan Motrz today, they said they can get me a brand new long block for $2600 shipped with a 1 year warranty. The motor from mercury is also new but comes with a 3 year warranty and is about $3300 (dealer quote). I'm not sure what to do, I'd sure like to pocket the extra $700 but really know nothing about Michigan Motorz, they told me they get the motor straight from GM as does Mercury, if that is the case all I would be losing is 2 year warranty. I'm also not even sure this marine shop will install a motor if it's not form Mercury I'll have to find out

 

[alldodge]

A brand new motor is a brand new motor, so the extra $700 lets say it's insurance, but in actuality it's more profit. True GM makes the motors and sells them to everybody including Merc. You can also contact your local GM dealer and get a price from them, just make sure they talk marine long block

 

[uinthas7]

I'll take a look around, see if we can find something. Do you want/have the history of doing your own wrenching? Most engine work on a boat is easier than today's cars, other than the inconvenience that the motor is basically stuffed into a bathtub, they are are really easy to get out, and simple to work on.

My experience looking at CL adds is that pulled motors are more expensive than rotted out donor boats. And often a pulled motor is not as easily fired up to prove it is in working condition. Mind you, it isn't all that hard to fire up a boat motor that's sitting on the floor, just most people don't know how or would rather not since it would quickly demonstrate any problems.

If you were further up north I could point out a couple decent used motors. Do some of your own searching on Craigslist. You'll see a number of them. Usually a freeze broken block on a 3.0L breaks right under the exhaust manifold with a horizontal crack. Pretty easy to see if you know where it most commonly is.

Rick

Thanks for the information, I will call my local GM dealer and see what they have to offer.

 

[Scott Danforth]

it has to be a GM dealer that sells industrial motors (Marine motors are a division of the GM industrial line).

 

[uinthas7]

I called the local GM dealer they had no clue... Anyway I am leaning towards just getting a new motor from Michagan Motorz, they claim it's a brand new long block from GM and comes with a 1 year warranty. The lady I spoke with said that the 3.0 is not very difficult motor to remove and put back in, I have even considered doing it myself, just never done this before or i have a friend who is a diesel mechanic for a living and I'm sure i could pay him a few hundred and he would do it.

As I stated before I want to do this right, and Id love to save some $$$ question is Michigan Motrz a reputable company and an engine I can trust, and is it that big of a deal not to have a certified mercury mechanic install it? I'm all ears to opinions as I have never done something like this before.

And if anyone has a good guide I could use to look at to see how difficult it is would be helfull as well

 

[Scott Danforth]

if you understand righty-tighty and lefty loosey, and can follow directions, its a really easy job.

not surprised your local GM dealer had no clue. they have to be a GM industrial engine dealer. not the same as the GM automotive engine dealers. kind of like going to an ear-nose-throat doctor for eye problems

which ever route you go, make sure you find out what killed your last motor and repair that system.

 

[uinthas7]

if you understand righty-tighty and lefty loosey, and can follow directions, its a really easy job.

not surprised your local GM dealer had no clue. they have to be a GM industrial engine dealer. not the same as the GM automotive engine dealers. kind of like going to an ear-nose-throat doctor for eye problems

which ever route you go, make sure you find out what killed your last motor and repair that system.

Is Michigan Motorz a reputable company that you know of? Or would could you make a suggestion of another place to purchase a new motor?

 

[Rick Stephens]

I think the engine swap is budgeted as something like a 2.5 to 3 hour labor job. I pulled a 3.0L in about 30 minutes first time I did it. Swapping parts takes most of the time. Possible to have a hull design that makes access tough. But mechanically very easy and your mechanic buddy, with your help and the manuals, would have little trouble. Have to own the alignment bar, is about the only special tool.

Might be worth popping the head off the current motor and seeing what happened. I would not stick a new motor on without knowing why the last one failed. Plugged up carb, timing off, something caused it. Don't want to swap a part over that was the initial reason for the failure.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I have not heard anything bad about Michigan Motorz.

 

[uinthas7]

No Title

Here is a picture of the engine, doesn't look to bad and room to work. Any suggestions in how I might find out what went wrong?

 

[alldodge]

Need to take the head off and see if something shows up.

 

[Bondo]

Any suggestions in how I might find out what went wrong?

[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, Verdana, sans-serif]Cylinder 1 no compression and spark plug destroyed, #2 no compression, 3 and 4 seem to be fine. So I have taken the route I have major damage and need a new engine (pissed)[/FONT]

Ayuh,..... Pull the motor out, put it on a stand, 'n pull the head,....

If the problem ain't blatantly obvious, flip the motor, pull the pan, 'n start checkin' the main, 'n rod bearin's,....

 

[Rick Stephens]

Ayuh,..... Pull the motor out, put it on a stand, 'n pull the head,....

If the problem ain't blatantly obvious, flip the motor, pull the pan, 'n start checkin' the main, 'n rod bearin's,....

What he said. Gotta be done.

Don't lift off the eye on the thermostat. Use the one towards the hydraulic pump.

 

[fishrdan]

Roll the engine over to where cylinder #1 is at TDC on it's compression stroke, plug compressed air into cyl #1's plug hole and listen/feel for where the air is coming out; carb, exhaust, cyl #2 or crank case? Then do the same thing for cyl #2.

If air is coming of the crank case you holed a couple of pistons. If air is coming out of the adjacent cylinder you blew a head gasket (hope for this). If air is coming out of the intake or exhaust the valves are messed up.

Oh yeah, have you winterized this engine or at least drained the block and manifold?

 

[Scott Danforth]

looking at the picture, it looks like you have water leaking down by #1 cylinder at the head gasket at front of head. I would definitely take it apart and determine what is wrong.

 

[bspeth]

Don't buy a new motor until you have done what was suggested above(disassembly).

 

[uinthas7]

looking at the picture, it looks like you have water leaking down by #1 cylinder at the head gasket at front of head. I would definitely take it apart and determine what is wrong.

That was actually a leak from the thermostat housing because a bolt was missing. I fixed that as soon as I found it, however I never saw the temp gauge go high.

I have decided to have my buddy who is a mechanic help me take the motor out and try to figure out what happened. Then buy a new motor from Michigan Motorz, hope it all works out.

 

[Rick Stephens]

I have decided to have my buddy who is a mechanic help me take the motor out and try to figure out what happened. Then buy a new motor from Michigan Motorz, hope it all works out.

Post pics when you see what is wrong.

 

[uinthas7]

No Title

Wanted to throw out an update on my project here, the new motor from MIchigan Motorz arrived today, I originally said me and a buddy were going to do it, but in the end the Marine shop is only charging me $800 for the job, plus I wanted them to look at the carb and a couple other small things so I decided it was worth the $800 and not have the hassle.

Anyway they pulled the motor today (you were right didn't look like a tough job) and the only thing obvious at this point is there is a rust line on the block, but cant see any crack. The dealer mechanic said it looked like it possibly wasn't winterized correctly and that could have caused it. I have included pictures of it, they are going to pull the head to investigate further

Next question is Michigan Motorz told me to put Rotella T diesel motor oil in for the break in period, dealer said he just uses mercruiser oil and has never had a problem but it's up to me, opinions?