Mercury 1350 .... 135 hp outboard

drewkuch

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I gave up on my 1979 Evinrude 75 hp and ended up buying a parts boat...$260 for a tri bottom, 1970 arrow, trailer, and 135 hp outboard Mercury 1350. The boat is gutted and needs floor work, but the body is solid, came with many parts including vintage gas cans.

Anyways, seller says the Mercury engine ran great on land and had the lower end rebuilt. I just bought it today and have yet to test the motor, but I'm in high hopes. What I'm wanting to know is, where is the model # on these? My serial # is 3116724 but I can't get that number to show up anywhere online. I'm assuming this is a 1970/1971 engine.

I'd like to know what to look for on these engines (flaws), what's good about these engines, and any advice about swapping this engine onto my 1968 Steury V-bottom boat, which has been all restored.

I'm new to the boat scene, so any advice is great. Plan is to use most of the parts from the recent purchase on my v bottom...throttle, cables, steering cables, gauges, engine, anchor winches, speedo, etc.
 

Faztbullet

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Re: Mercury 1350 .... 135 hp outboard

I'd like to know what to look for on these engines (flaws)
Rotten internal wiring and trigger problems. Never reverse battery leads or remove them when running. Engine was only made 2 years and is not a direct charge motor and a quite a few parts are NLA.
 

emckelvy

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Re: Mercury 1350 .... 135 hp outboard

Rotten internal wiring and trigger problems. Never reverse battery leads or remove them when running. Engine was only made 2 years and is not a direct charge motor and a quite a few parts are NLA.

By "not a direct charge motor" are you referring to the type of piston with a "deflector dome" on it, such as was used in all the stock production 99-c.i. motors except the 1250?

I can assure you that the '70-'71 1350 came with deflector-type pistons with High-Domes; it also had huge intake & exhaust ports, and ran like crazy!

Best motor I've ever owned.

Cheers.........ed
 

drewkuch

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Re: Mercury 1350 .... 135 hp outboard

Awesome information Gerry!

Yes, I seen a lot of wiring that needs replaced, the insulation is completely off. I heard these are good running engines. Hoping to test it out this weekend to see how it runs. Thanks for the info everyone
 

wired247

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Re: Mercury 1350 .... 135 hp outboard

By "not a direct charge motor" are you referring to the type of piston with a "deflector dome" on it, such as was used in all the stock production 99-c.i. motors except the 1250?

I can assure you that the '70-'71 1350 came with deflector-type pistons with High-Domes; it also had huge intake & exhaust ports, and ran like crazy!

Best motor I've ever owned.

Cheers.........ed

All 99 c.i. crossflow merc pistons are not the same. Different compressions and some were "direct charged". Hole in the side of the piston and a corresponding relief in the side of the cylinder wall. SORT OF a looper design that retained the same upper as the other crossflows. The 1350 does not have the ports in the side of the piston and the direct charge reliefs in the block. Put those in there and they call it a 1500.
 
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drewkuch

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Re: Mercury 1350 .... 135 hp outboard

What's the best gas ratio to put for this engine?
 

Faztbullet

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Re: Mercury 1350 .... 135 hp outboard

By "not a direct charge motor" are you referring to the type of piston with a "deflector dome" on it, such as was used in all the stock production 99-c.i. motors except the 1250?
Ypur correct I meant power ported...not enough coffee.
 

jimmbo

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Re: Mercury 1350 .... 135 hp outboard

tb.jpgth.jpg

the 1st pic is a Direct Charge Piston with the Power Port in the skirt. The 2nd is a standard Crossflow piston. Mercury called it PowerDome
 
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drewkuch

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Re: Mercury 1350 .... 135 hp outboard

what's the best gas ratio to put into this engine?
 

drewkuch

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Re: Mercury 1350 .... 135 hp outboard

Ended up having to replace the battery cables so it would crank better....got it cranked over and started when on choke, wouldn't idle without choke on, but seemed to run good.

It's dumping out fuel from the carbs though...top carb mainly (#1 and #2 cylinders)...there's a black "collecting pot" at the bottom of the engine for what seems to be collecting the fuel that spits out of the carbs. It's dripping out quite a bit though...carbs needing rebuilt?

getting spark to all cylinders.
 

emckelvy

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Re: Mercury 1350 .... 135 hp outboard

Yeah, the little black fuel tray collects all the "weepings" from the carbs and safely routes it overboard via a hose, instead of dripping all over the transom as the older motors did!

Hey, good news on the sparking, the cheapest price I've found for a new CDI-brand distributor trigger assy was $274 on eBay. They retail for much more! So you made out good on that.

On the carbs, it's not uncommon for them to spit a little out the throats if you pump the primer bulb real hard, but they should never leak while the engine is running. Messes up the idle mixture, wastes fuel, and is definitely a fire hazard! :eek:

You can pull the filter housing & float bowl cover on each carb, and inspect the floats, needles, and seats. It may just be bad floats, or an out-of-adjusted float level.

But it'd probably be a good idea to replace the floats and needle/seat assy's with new, ethanol-resistant parts. They're not horribly expensive and will keep your motor from turning into a bomb!

You'll need (3) "carb packing" kits and they'll have the gaskets you need for the minor R&R. If you work at it, you don't necessarily have to pull the carbs to get at the floats.

Here's one site with good diagrams, you may also find a deal on these parts on iBoats.

Mercury Marine 1350 CARBURETOR ASSEMBLY Parts

The gaskets/packing kits are towards the bottom of the page.

Note that the needle/seat assy (#6 in the diagram) has 2 different part numbers, depending on your motor's serial number. So be sure to bounce those parts against you ser. # and you'll get the right ones.
HTH...........ed
 

drewkuch

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Re: Mercury 1350 .... 135 hp outboard

Ended up getting it running good after priming the cylinders...seems like this engine has a ton of compression and will always be a pain the butt to start...it only idles when on choke, so i'll need to do some adjusting...i put it into reverse , works fine, and it is VERY RESPONSIVE with the throttle....but when i put it into forward, there's no rpms...the propeller spins, but the engine doesn't rev....
 

jimmbo

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Re: Mercury 1350 .... 135 hp outboard

Assuming the controls are connected. You say it won't rev up in forward gear, Is the throttle linkage on the engine moving as you advance the throttle?
 
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wired247

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Re: Mercury 1350 .... 135 hp outboard

And the lesson here is never buy a motor you haven't tested on the water.

Your carbs are probably gummed up. Time for a rebuild.
 

drewkuch

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Re: Mercury 1350 .... 135 hp outboard

Lesson here is, I got a ton of parts and a running engine for $260. You can't expect a perfect boat/engine for that price.




And the lesson here is never buy a motor you haven't tested on the water.

Your carbs are probably gummed up. Time for a rebuild.
 

drewkuch

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Re: Mercury 1350 .... 135 hp outboard

Everything is connected, but the throttle lever isn't moving when I put it into forward or reverse. It does engage to the transmission linkage, but not the throttle linkage.


Assuming the controls are connected. You say it won't rev up in forward gear, Is the throttle linkage on the engine moving as you advance the throttle?
 

wired247

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Re: Mercury 1350 .... 135 hp outboard

Lesson here is, I got a ton of parts and a running engine for $260. You can't expect a perfect boat/engine for that price.

Once you get a few hundred more into it and a few months you'll probably realize you just paid $260 for someone else problem.

Never buy a motor that you actually want to use that you don't test on the water.
 

drewkuch

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Re: Mercury 1350 .... 135 hp outboard

I would have spent more money elsewhere. Here, I get all the parts I need, plus I'm making money on the whole ordeal by selling the trailer and shell. This was a parts boat that isn't safe for water use at the moment. Please, I don't need your advice here. If you want to help me diagnose the current problem, that's fine, but I don't need your advice otherwise. Thanks.


Once you get a few hundred more into it and a few months you'll probably realize you just paid $260 for someone else problem.

Never buy a motor that you actually want to use that you don't test on the water.
 
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