Might buy a 1970's 60hp VRO johnson with boat/trailer but I have some questions

[thegipper]

I have the opportunity to buy a 1970ish (he is not sure the exact year) 60hp VRO johnson. I would get a 16' starcraft and trailer with it which I don't need (already have a boat completely done just needs a motor, controls and steering). The price would be $750 for everything.

This is what I know.

He sent me a video but I cannot download it or save it so I cannot post it here. The motor appears to be running great and idling well.

He had the carbs "synced", plugs and wires replaced, new water pump and thermostat this spring. His friend works on boats and did the tune up.

I am going to meet with him tonight and bring cash. If it all checks out, I'm thinking I'll buy it. I'd take the motor, controls and steering and swap it to my boat and sell off this boat and trailer (couple hundred bucks). So I'd potentially get everything I need for 500 bucks (ish).

I'll be bringing a compression tester. What PSI should I see on all three cyclinders, or what is good/acceptable? I'm going to have him start it and make sure it idles and starts good. It looks like its in really good shape (see picture).

He said nothing is wrong with it but the trim does not work because it is missing the bracket for it? I'm assuming he is talking about the mounting bracket for the trim motor/cylinder? How hard would it be to find a replacement part?

What else should i look for other than the obvious leaks or damage?

Thanks for the help guys!

 

[flyingscott]

Get the model# off of the motor to find out the exact year and HP. That motor looks like early 70s with a hood from about a 1990 model

 

[thegipper]

He has it in storage right now and I won't be able to get the exact model# until I go look at it. He did say it was an early 70's Johnson. Assuming that is the case, is there anything in detail I should look for?

I know some people hate the VRO system and others have no issues. I'll ask if he bypassed it or if he is still using it. Don't a lot of guys just bypass it and mix their gas? If that is the way to guarantee to not have any issues I may go that route (assuming I buy it).

 

[racerone]

As stated this may be a motor from 1971 and that did not have VRO.-------Buyer beware on this one !-----Nice newer cover ( 1990 ) on it if it is a 1971 model.

 

[thegipper]

What would be the issue with having a new cover on it? I'm assuming some people loose their covers or get damaged, maybe this was the only replacement he could find.

Or am I missing something?

I'm not really concerned that it has a newer cover on it (said thats the way he got it when he bought it). He just bought a new boat (in the background of the picture he sent me). Is there anything in particular that I should look for on a 1971 (looked it up and its either a 70 or 71 since those are the only two years they made a 60hp in the 70's).

Thanks

 

[RCO]

If it really is a 70 or 71 model it would have the electro shift lower unit. Not necessarily bad, but parts are a lot harder to find if needed. If a newer model with the early VRO system that is another can of worms. This time of year there should be plenty of options for a used outboard that size dirt cheap.

 

[kofkorn]

The trim units for the older motors are also difficult and expensive to find parts for. Honestly, for $500, you can find a much newer motor that would likely have power trim.

If you continue going forward, ideal compression would be even and above 125psi. I'd walk away from anything at 100 PSI or lower. 110psi and I wouldn't offer more than $400 for the whole package.

 

[jimmbo]

Looking at the transom mounting bracket it is a pre 1973 engine, until there is a model number it could be a 1968 - 69 55hp, a 1970 - 71 60hp or a 1972 65hp.
As for availability of trim kits, power trim was not an option until 1973.

 

[thegipper]

Checked it out today and ended up buying it. It is a 1970 60hp no power trim. The power trim that is still hooked up but in the back of the boat was from the previous motor.

Motor starts instantly and runs good. Tested compression while it was cold and it was good.

120psi
110psi
120psi

all controls, steering, choke ect work without any problems.

The only thing of some concern was I checked the lower unit oil and was milky so it's got a bad seal or gasket somewhere. Lower unit is in great shape, prop is pretty good too.

he did use the correct type c fluid and said he had it out about a dozen times this year since the fluid change this spring.

where should i start to look for trying to address the bad seal/gasket causing the water in the LU?

The rest of the boat is not bad. New seats, floor is ok and good battery. Trailer is a little rusty but tires/bearings are like new. Should be able to get a couple hundred for the boat/trailer.

Paid 700 with clean title.

 

[thegipper]

Here is the serial/model # plate

 

[82rude]

1970 60hp johnson

 

[thegipper]

Also, what are my options for adding a power trim. Apparently it wasn't an option from the ffactory but what aftermarket options are available? I wonder if Icould fab something up using the working existing electric trim?

 

[82rude]

I'm assuming you mean no trim for 60 hp till 73 jimmbo?heres a 66 80 with it factory.

 

[flyingscott]

CMC makes a good tilt and trim aftermarket there are a couple options on this website. The early v4 motors like in the pic above had a tilt only option.

 

[82rude]

NEVER Though of it that's what it was just tilt?Only used the motor for one cruse so never even gave it a thought.Great running motor though.Guess thats why it said tilt on the little mini dash,lol.Still way better than trying to yank that big beast up by hand.

 

[jimmbo]

I'm assuming you mean no trim for 60 hp till 73 jimmbo?heres a 66 80 with it factory.

That's power tilt, OMC had that as far back as 1960 or 61

 

[thegipper]

So what seals could potentially cause the leak? I am thinking I'll replace the two prop seals, get new drain/fill washers, prop shaft O ring and the seal for the screw in the bearing housing inside the prop. I figured I would replace all of those seals since they would be the easiest fix and hopefully it fixes it. If not, I'll have to drop the lower unit and replace all of the other seals/gaskets inside the lower unit.

Thanks

 

[thegipper]

Also, I know it uses type C fluid and fleet farm sells Mystik JT-4 premium lower unit oil. I went to their website and it does state under applications "including OMC Type C". I'm assuming that I can use this fluid, it's only 5 bucks a quart. Before I change the fluid though, I want to replace whatever seals that may be causing the leak so hopefully someone can chime in on that.

Thanks

 

[jakedaawg]

If it were mine I would be replacing the impellar so might as well just pull it and learn to reaseal it while you are at it. Just sayin....

 

[thegipper]

The impeller/thermostat were just replaced in spring by the previous owner. I am going to pressurize the lower unit and see if I can find where the leak is.

I changed the fluid last night and noticed it had green plastic washers on the drain/fill plugs. They are also all smashed and not in the best condition. I'm going to first buy some OEM nylon washers and see if that is the problem. I'll still do the test, maybe its just the prop seals but who knows. Maybe the guy that did the impeller didn't replace the seals when he was in there?