Mooring/Slip Questions

CntrySngr

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 31, 2005
Messages
196
I am considering leaving my boat out at the lake. They have slips and mooring balls available.<br /><br />If I do that, do I need a bilge float?<br /><br />Also, my boat has a bow cover that snaps on, but the rest of the boat is open. Can I get a fitted cover to use while it is at the lake? Would this be something that I could install the snaps on myself, or should I have it done professionally? :confused: <br /><br />I appreciate any help you can give. :)
 

mattttt25

Commander
Joined
Sep 29, 2002
Messages
2,661
Re: Mooring/Slip Questions

highly recommend an automatic bilge pump. also a second battery if you don't already have one.
 

CntrySngr

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 31, 2005
Messages
196
Re: Mooring/Slip Questions

I'm guessing that the 2nd battery should stay on land and I can take it with me when I go to the lake, in case I need it?
 

tommays

Admiral
Joined
Jul 4, 2004
Messages
6,768
Re: Mooring/Slip Questions

if your going to leave it in the water and SUN you need to cover the boat as much as possable<br /><br />i have a custom snap on that keeps the sun and rain off the interior BOTH will age the boat really fast<br /><br />if you can get one that goes over the windshield its even better because the dash takes a beating from the sun also<br /><br /><br />tommays
 

wvit100

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 6, 2002
Messages
416
Re: Mooring/Slip Questions

I've seen a couple of boat sunk at my marina. All it takes is for a muskrat to chew a hole or a hose to pop loose. Your battery will run the bilge pump for a while but not for a week. When mine was in the water I always tried to stop by at least once during the week to check on things.
 

CntrySngr

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 31, 2005
Messages
196
Re: Mooring/Slip Questions

Originally posted by wvit100:<br /> I've seen a couple of boat sunk at my marina. All it takes is for a muskrat to chew a hole or a hose to pop loose. Your battery will run the bilge pump for a while but not for a week. When mine was in the water I always tried to stop by at least once during the week to check on things.
Y'all are slowly convincing me to keep it trailered.
 

stevens

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 4, 2005
Messages
799
Re: Mooring/Slip Questions

Isn't your boat self-bailing? If it is not, you should really try to cover the entire cockpit so that it is not filled with rainwater. The bilge pump will only keep it afloat for so long. Your avatar picture shows some kind of canvas? Why not use it, or some kind of canvas mooring cover?<br /><br />My previous wood boat once sank after I had moored it at the broker to sell it. It sprung a leak, the bilge pump ran without stop and the battery lasted less than 24 hours. The broker found the boat on the bottom, suspended by the mooring ropes. It was a hard sell after that... :( <br /><br />No, the second battery would stay in the boat, be hooked to the other one with some kind of splitter or switch between them, and add to the total battery capacity. That way, you can still start your engine even if the bilge pump has drained the (second) battery in the meantime. Once the engine is running, both batteries are charged up again.
 

cuzner

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 14, 2004
Messages
771
Re: Mooring/Slip Questions

An auto bilge pump is a good idea, even if you don't leave it moored.A few years back I was overighting on an island in Lake Erie And woke up at 4 am, with water 6 inches over the floor :eek: Had a leak in my shift bellows, and only a manual bilge pump,good thing I have a weak bladder!!!. 2 batteries and a switch also a good idea if its in your budget. Will give you peace of mind If you play your stereo, leave a light on etc. with the motor off you still have a fresh battery to start up.A custom cover is large money, but well worth it. Its alot cheaper than a camper top, and you will extend the life of your caper top by using instead.<br /><br /> Jim
 

mattttt25

Commander
Joined
Sep 29, 2002
Messages
2,661
Re: Mooring/Slip Questions

yes, i recommended the second battery for reasons stated above. you don't make it to the boat for several weeks, lots of rain that your bilge pump has to deal with, and then you realize you don't have enough juice to start the engine.<br /><br />don't be afraid to put the boat in the water. i'm a firm believer that all boats belong there. i will never trailer a boat again. it's too convenient for me- i can get off work, drive 5 minutes to the dock, and be out on the water. come back late, just tie up and go. dealing with a trailer and the time/hastle of launching/hauling is just no fun to me.
 

prockvoan

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 27, 2004
Messages
512
Re: Mooring/Slip Questions

A second battery is a must.When selecting a second battery,get one that is a deep cycle,something like a trolling motor battery.When hooking up a auto bilge pump,the float and pump should be wired direct to the battery with a fuse in line,a second wiring to a switch that bypasses the float switch.<br />The reason that to wire a auto bilge pump direct to your battery is if you turn off your battery switch to the rest of the boat,you still have protect if need be.<br />Forgot,add a second bilge pump for back up,that is a must too!
 

Richard Petersen

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 17, 2004
Messages
778
Re: Mooring/Slip Questions

My 18' bow rider has FULL canvas from the factory when new. I leave it in water all 6 mo. Never dead battery for months on end. GOOD fitting canvas works, St. Lawrence River.
 

stevens

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 4, 2005
Messages
799
Re: Mooring/Slip Questions

Yes, a full canvas does work well - unless the water enters the boat from below...
 

waterone1@aol.com

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
1,235
Re: Mooring/Slip Questions

The above advice is good. Don't forget to apply anti-fouling bottom paint if you are going to leave the boat in the water all season.
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
13,093
Re: Mooring/Slip Questions

Leaving the boat in makes it easier to use it but can greatly increase maintenance costs, esp in salt water. I have moored my boat behind my house in a local harbor (salt water) for 3 summers (May-Oct).<br />You MUST have an auto bilge switch, I use the Sure Bail one, it is one of the better ones. <br />2 Batteries and a switch are also mandatory. I use 2 deep cycle group 27 batteries, and alternate them so I use batt #1 on one day, batt# 2 the next. You should have a foward and a cockpit cover, to keep the water out and the sun off. Here even the fishing style boats that are self bailing have covers because the sea gulls crap all over everything! So when I re-did the interior in 2003 I had a foward/cockpit covers made and the boat stays clean all the time, seats still look new. Well worth it. I love not trailering. The main problem in salt water mooring is with outdrives, the anti fouling paint does not last the whole season, so you have to re-apply in the middle of the summer or you get LOTS of barnicles. This is a horror show you fresh water guys don't have to worry about. The next boat will be an outboard or straight inboard to eliminate that issue.
 

MrBill

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 4, 2002
Messages
710
Re: Mooring/Slip Questions

You've gotten good advice all around...auto bilge pump is a necessity...and a full canvas cover is highly recommended. I'm on a fresh water mooring May to October...you MUST cover the boat to minimize in coming water and prevent damage from wind, sun and water fowl. Fouling on the hull is dependent upon the lake water quality and temp...many lakes prohibit anti-fouling paint, just scrub once a month with telescopic pole and brush.
 
Top