Motor mount rebuild question

[Yacht Dr.]

Yup..the red stuff is what you want.

As far as the cloth and mat. Well Mat is CSM ( chopped strand mat ). Not sure if their selling 1.5 oz or 3/4 oz. ( 3/4 oz is kinda uncommon around here ).
If the cloth is the same tiny weaves that came in the bondo pack..then you dont want that. 1708 is 17 oz stitched glass with .8 oz mat on it. We like this because we dont have to use mat between laminates ( Its already there on the 1708 ). Dont you have a boat repair place near by? If so you could probably buy some 1708 off them. If not..then you might have to order some online.

OR..if we are permitted through forum rules and all..You can PM me and I will get you a few yards of the stuff and send it to you. At cost plus shipping

 

[ondarvr]

Follow what YD is saying about methods and products, if you can't get 1708 locally try to find some 24oz woven roving, it's not quite as good as 1708 but was used for decades, and still is, for the same purpose. You just need to use CSM between each layer.

 

[nateo]

Couldn't find anyone willing to sell 1708 and got inpatient. I used the marine resin and fiberglass mat tonight (after doing some more grinding). that csm is way better to work with. Resin lasted a long time too, although that worries me a little, hopefully I used enough hardener. Temp was only 64 degrees outside so I'm hoping it had something to do with that. will post some pictures tomorrow after it (hopefully) dries.

 

[ondarvr]

Mat isn't very strong, the strength comes from the 1708 or roving.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Thats like having a steak dinner..without the Steak!

Well..when you go and pilot the screw holes in..make sure you oversize the fiberglass. I ( we ) still think you should cap some heavy material on there.

 

[nateo]

Ok, guys went and checked on it today and it never set-up. I think I didn't use enough hardner. I went back and read the entire thread with everyone's advice/instructions. When I started grinding the boxes as the Vice Admiral suggested a few holes developed. I'm about to go back and do some grinding and seriously thinking about following Woodonglass's recommendation about just ripping out the box, grinding down and building a new box fresh. This time following the vice admiral's instructions with 1708, etc. Was really hoping to get the engine back in this weekend. Really don't want to wait on 1708 though, might pick up the woven ring, I know they had that there.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

That works too

Just to let you know..you cant put woving over woving. You have to alternate between mat and woving. So its going to be Mat,Mat..woving,mat,woving,mat,woving..mat mat. Bubble roll after each mat over woving. You can finish with woving if the resin doesnt drain out. The mat will help with rolling out though.

Also..rebuilding the mounts from scratch is gonna be a little more complex and extensive. Sounds easy enough ( and it is for the most part )..but there are going to be other things to watch out for. LIke making Sure that your ply stack is good and coated before you start glassing. Especially the Edges.

Now your going to have to grind about 8-10" around where the mount box is ( The hull and the sides/tops of the stringers ). All the gelcoat has to be removed.

 

[nateo]

Can i do each layer (of woving & mat) with one square? Or a bunch of several pieces?

 

[ondarvr]

You put it down whatever way works best for your situation, there is no exact right or wrong way to get the glass to fit and lay down.

 

[nateo]

Oh and has anyone ever tried building the blocks with pvc?

 

[JaCrispy]

I would just bed some plywood blocks in there and cap it off with new fiberglass.

 

[produceguy]

Oh and has anyone ever tried building the blocks with pvc?

I don't understand what your thinking,can you elaborate?

 

[Yacht Dr.]

I don't understand what your thinking,can you elaborate?

I think hes talking about pvc decking boards. Ya know..so they dont rot if they get water in there. Which probably wont work out too well if water Does get in there. Glass aint gonna stick too well..and when it freezes..Pow..blown out fiberglass mounts.

LOL..man..dude..get some plywood and either jam a stack down in there and cap it..or build new ones with all new glass. Shoulda been done with dis already !

PS. You know Im just teasing ya..just trying to give you a gentle nudge

 

[kramerpage]

This is getting a little frustrating. They dont have anything called 1708 or csm. They have fiberglass cloth and fiberglass mat. Are these the same things respectively?

Is the red stuff the fiberglass that i need to grund down to?

Nateo,
I'm in the same boat as you. Haha I have been following your posts and decided to just cut them out with Sawzall and replace one at a time. I ordered the 1708n 1.5 mat and poly this Tuesday and it will be here today. 3/4 BCX plywood for 30 bucks. Not much money and I'm on a budget. It's all labor. When I'm done I'll have a nice 10K boat for a 2 K investment. Check out my post here My Rotten Lady. Let's get this **** done and get these girls back in the water. I have never done this before either.....best of luck guy.

 

[nateo]

Well I'm done fiberglassing this sucker. Hopefully it holds up. Never did get the 1708, wished I would have though. ending up doing 6 full layers. 3 of woven and 3 csm. Plus some additional in a few areas such as corners. I put down both one csm and woven at the same time, then let dry and came back at it. Cris crossed the layers for strength. I ended up using laminating resin on new wood and all layers. I then got the waxed thick resin for final coat. If I had to do it all over again I would have probably taken into a shop. Very time consuming, messy, itchy, and really not all that sure how well I did. In comparision pulling engine was a pretty easier job. Will post pics tonight.

So here's my final question on this "little" project. Do I need to remove wax with acetone and or sand and then paint it (dude at boat store gave me some oil based bilge paint). Or should I just leave it with the final top coat of waxed resin? I don't really care what it looks like as this is a old boat anyway, but I do want it to hold up.

 

[ondarvr]

No need for paint, no real need for the waxed resin either.

 

[nateo]

Ok so I ended up putting a final coat of non waxed resin (thick stuff). It sealed everything up well, I highly recommend this step. Sanded it up a little bit and painted it white with some special paint I got at boat store ($10). This sealed it up and gave it a finished look. See attached for final result. I put engine back in this weekend, that was a serious job with in full sun 92 degrees outside. Went through a lot of water.

Anyone reading this I have one last tip, be sure to completely align engine (with alignment bar) before marking new holes to be drilled. Ended up having to drill a new set of holes as first ones weren't in perfect spot. Filled old holes with special below the water line life chauk that I got at boat store. didn't have time to resin/glass it. hopefully it holds up.

Thanks everyone for all the help, would have never turned out good without the help.

 

[nateo]

No Title

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Thanks everyone for all the help, would have never turned out good without the help.

Seemed like you did everything But using the good advice given here in your thread lol. But the jobs done and you learned something(s)

Got any pics of what it was before you painted it?