Muffs

[62cruiserinc]

I have never run on muffs before (1981 Sea Ray 5.7L, Alpha 1 Gen 1). This is my first boat ever and just bought it last year.

I am doing a bunch of maintenance and de-winterizing soon and would like to run it at home.

Is there a step-by-step checklist on running with muffs? I don't want to grenade something because I skipped a step along the way.

I tried searching but there were only posts asking why it wasn't working right on muffs.

Thanks
Steve

 

[Bt Doctur]

OK, install the muffs , turn on the water and take note of the water splashing out with the motor off
Start motor and almost instantly the "splash" should disappear.
Keep idle below 1200 or have someone watch the splash as you raise the throttle, when the splash stops your at your max idle speed
Keep an eye on engine temp
And never EVER start the motor without a water source

 

[ThomW]

Yeah. Just make sure the muffs are lined up on the water intake vents on lower unit, start water, then start boat. Watch from the rear and make sure you see water start pouring out of the exhaust ports. If you winterized it, it may be pink at first--or whatever color anti-freeze you used.

 

[wellcraft-classic210]

Also -- Take care that the muffs do not slip off or out of position to ensure a steady water supply --
Example -- If someone moves the drive up and down or the hose they can slip down or off.

Some people use some electrical tape to hold them in place as an added precaution.

 

[Lou C]

Use the Merc/Quicksilver ones with the metal rod clamp and make sure that no one is taking a shower or doing the wash in your house when you are running the boat on the water hose, don't laugh it happened to me the first time I winterized my '88 OMC 4.3. Ran hot, then normal, hot, then normal. Could not figure it out then saw the laundry in the basement...and had to laugh.

 

[thumpar]

Make sure the drive is down.

 

[62cruiserinc]

Thanks, everyone for the tips and procedures.

The gaskets and new 160 degree thermostat just arrived (bought from iboats store).

It's still winterized with AF but now that the weather is (FINALLY) getting better, I can start preparing it for the water.

Steve

 

[alldodge]

I am doing a bunch of maintenance and de-winterizing soon and would like to run it at home.

Hope one of those is change impeller and gear lube if it has not been done. Then check alignment

 

[H20Rat]

If the engine was winterized dry, it can take quite a bit of time (minute or two) after you start it before you see water coming out anywhere. Don't remember exactly, but a typical 6 or 8 cylinder marine engine can hold a couple gallons of water in various places.

 

[62cruiserinc]

Hope one of those is change impeller and gear lube if it has not been done. Then check alignment

Last year when I bought the boat I replaced the impeller, fuel pump (sight glass had some fuel in it), replaced the gear lube (pressure tested for leaks) and checked the alignment.

We had a record high water level on Lake Ontario last summer which destroyed docks and I didn't get the boat in the water until August. For this and other reasons the boat probably only has about 5 hours of run time on it since I did all that maintenance last year.

I did remove the outdrive before winterizing and put the outdrive on a stand and kept it in my heated workshop over the winter. I made a lexan cover to go over the bellhousing to keep water and critters out. I will check the alignment anyway before I put the outdrive back on because its so easy to do.

For winterizing, I drained the engine, manifolds, etc. and filled the engine with AF by removing the thermostat and filling through the housing.

BTW, all the maintenance and winterizing I did was stuff that I learned from you guys on the forum here. Thanks again.

Steve

 

[stonyloam]

Yeah make sure you take the muffs OFF before you drive away

 

[QBhoy]

All the above...and never take your eye off the thing. Never leave a boat running on muffs without watching it constantly for water flow and temps.

 

[Lou C]

Whenever I start mine I always check right away that water is exiting the exhaust housing under the transom. The Merc/Quicksilver muffs I referenced above, are GREAT. Much better than the universal style.