Re: My 15 ft Mitchell is due for a little refreshing
Welcome to iBoats!
Not sure how I been missing your thread but looks like you'be got a nice project going. I'll try to answere your questions as best I can.
Not sure if i'll need to primer inside also ? I always recommend using the primer recommended by the mfg of the final coat product. This helps to ensure proper adhesion. Primers are formulated to adhere to the substrate and then to chemically bond with the final coat of paint.
The hull needs some repairs also , again not sure if i should just reglass these areas since iam primer and painting or just use a filler . I'd use your own mixed fairing filler. Use a cup of Poly Resin, Heaping tablespoon of Cabosil, and then add Glass bubbles until the mix is the consistency of mayonaise. Then add 1.5% MEKP to the mix and stir for 1 minute. This concoction will fill all major scratches and blemishes and sands like a dream. If you have deep gouges or scratches then a couple of patches of CSM will help beef em up prior to the fairing material.
I glance at the back bilge area and thought wait a min ... i have a drain spot for the plug on back to get water out the boat but NONE on either of the three sides ( for under the floor ) --- The boat is older but there should be one there correct ? Yes I would drill drain holes in these locations.
When i fix the couple areas on the hull and if i choose not to paint i could try to match up the color somewhat close gelcoat wise . Cost wise , looking at the paint your boat for 100.00 , with the sanding , faring , primer and fresh paint would this be better for me to be sure the boat is sealed well ? Gelcoat is much more durable than paint. Having said that, IMHO it is also much more difficult to apply and make to look "Factory". I am not a Pro and I'm sure the Pro's that do Gelcoating for a living might disagree. A properly prepped and painted boat will give you years of service and again IMHO easy to do touch ups and repair. The Glass and resin is what seals the boat.
After the casting deck bracing is in should i use PL where the deck sits on the bracing and the 3/4 lip around the hull ?
This is perfectly acceptable.
Fiqured i set blocks on it to hold it down OR should i screw SS screws thru deck into the braces , then cover the srews heads with a filler ?
You could use SS screws but the PL will hold it all in place. It's done this way all the time.
What mat or cloth should i use after iam done installing the deck ? IMHO you should Use Poly resin and 1 layer of CSM on the Bottom of the decking and then On the top 2 layers of CSM. Will make it much more durable. If you want it to last a long time I'd finish the top side off with a layer of 6oz cloth.
I thought before i seen a post on how to *transfer* the curved area of the trihull to a template ( where it rounded /flat/rounded ) but i could not find that post again . Whats the best way to get this template ? The part circled in blue in the picture. I'd cut 1 1/2" wide strips of cardboard and tape them together to follow the outline. You can then take the taped shape to the plywood to transfer it.
Last one for now is .. In the pic , circled in red . I need to replace these . The wood is solid from the floor up 8 inches or so but near the top the wood is either gone or soft . Fiqured i'd cut them out with the cutting wheel and just replace them . Which cloth or mat do i need to use ? Same method as I described for the Deck
I seen a couple posts on floor underlayment but wasn't sure what i was looking for
Underlayment is plywood used to make the subflooring in homes. Used to lay ceramic tile on and to nail wood floorin to. It uses 100% waterproof glue and usually has very few voids. The Marine Plywood is double what exterior grade should be. Go to a Lumber Yard, NOT one of the DIY stores. They should have some Good Quality Ext. Grade Plywood (use for Roofing) Or they should also have the MDO. Compare the prices and if it's close then I'd use the MG. Your template for the deck should be within 1/2 inch of the sides. Fill the gap with Peanut Butter and make a nice cove so the glass will be easier to make the transition up the sides of the hull.
The valspar paint with hardener can be used for the Exterior and Interior of the boat. You can also use Rustoleum Professional Oil Base with the hardener. You can use any Acrylic Enamel hardener and usually can be obtained at Advanced Auto or Paint stores that sell Acrylic enamel Car Paint.
I think I got em all. Keep posting pics and ?? and we'll all be here to help you.
Quick question on the CSM , do i need the 1.5 or 2.0 oz ? Again thank you for checking out the post , this weekend will be a good time start .
