My 16 Foot Super Sport

[Starman8]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Guess, 1972 or 73 based on

1. The strake position to the chine.............i.e higher up the sides
2. The steering wheel
3. The dash panels

 

[Otte]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Guess, 1972 or 73 based on

1. The strake position to the chine.............i.e higher up the sides
2. The steering wheel
3. The dash panels

Starman,

Check out comment #53. My boat looks like the one listed as 1971.

Check out these possibilities in Ohio and Michigan. Already talked to my wife about it and got nothing but a stare. I will take that as a no.

http://craiggers.com/#!/search/all/boa/starcraft boat/postKey=C2KKVXF

http://craiggers.com/#!/search/all/boa/starcraft boat/postKey=C2DX94C

 

[barato2]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

do i hear MBS?

congrats o fellow mob-ites....we seem to have dragged another one down into the mud.....

 

[STARCRAFT16SS]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Did a search with your serial number ...to find year of boat...Found on Answers.com...WikiAnswers...
All boat manufactured or imported on or after November 1, 1972 must bear a HIN. The HIN is a 12 character serial number that uniquely identifies your boat. The HIN has an important safety purpose. It enables manufactures to clearly identify for boat owners the boats that are involved in a defect notification and recall campaign. A HIN is not the same as a State registration number, which may be required to be displayed on the bow of your boat. The HIN is a federal requirement; your boat's registration number is a State requirement similar to the license on your car. The HIN, however, is required to be shown on the State certificate of registration.

The boat manufacture must display two identical hull identification numbers, no less than 1/4 of an inch high on each boat hull. The primary HIN must be permanently affixed (so that it can be seen from the outside the boat) to the Starboard side of the transom within two inches of the top of the transom, gunwale, or hull/deck joint, whichever is lowest. On boats without transoms or on boats on which it would be impractical to the transom, the HIN must be affixed to the starboard outboard side of the hull. aft within one foot of the stern and within
two inches of the top of hull side, gunwale, or hull/deck joint, whichever is lowest. The starboard outboard side of the hull aft is the preferred HIN location for many manufactures. On catamarans and pontoon boats the HIN must be affixed on the aft crossbeam within one foot of the starboard hull attachment. The second is usually hidden inside somewhere...

HHHmmm...if this is correct...and your serial number is only 6 digits... I'm guessing your boat is older than Nov 1st, 1972

 

[Starman8]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

you da man!

 

[STARCRAFT16SS]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Otte..check out the picture of you with the drill in reply/comment #8...look closely at the railing...the number of support bases/mounts...and the curve of the railing where it starts ...near the windshield....now look at the two pics again in
reply/comment #53...colors look like the 1971...railing looks like the 1970 pic...I wonder how much railing styles overlapped for what years...and what colors where available for what years....

 

[Otte]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Otte..check out the picture of you with the drill in reply/comment #8...look closely at the railing...the number of support bases/mounts...and the curve of the railing where it starts ...near the windshield....now look at the two pics again in
reply/comment #53...colors look like the 1971...railing looks like the 1970 pic...I wounder how much railing styles overlapped for what years...and what colors where available for what years....

How right you are Starcraft - So the boat is at least 1970. Cool.

 

[Otte]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

I have a question about fasteners. For those that beef up your floor to 3/4 ply... what did you folks use to fasten your floor to the hull? Did you get aluminum fasteners or so with stainless? I guess the same question applies to the transom. I think the original fasteners for the floor were stainless steel but a question for the wise men at the Gates of Decision would be best.

 

[Starman8]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

I used both alum rivets and SS screws, and stayed with 1/2" decking

The rivets were used in the ribs and stringers, and in the areas where the floor was bolstered for seat bases,
ski tow support, and cross-bridging, SS screws.

The areas mentioned included marine grade 3/4" in aluminum frames riveted to the ribs and stringers, then the screws went thru the main deck into the bolstering, which is why I stayed with 1/2" decking

 

[Otte]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

I used both alum rivets and SS screws, and stayed with 1/2" decking

The rivets were used in the ribs and stringers, and in the areas where the floor was bolstered for seat bases,
ski tow support, and cross-bridging, SS screws.

The areas mentioned included marine grade 3/4" in aluminum frames riveted to the ribs and stringers, then the screws went thru the main deck into the bolstering, which is why I stayed with 1/2" decking

Question #1 - Does your floor buckle at all when you or others walk on it?
Question #2 - This one is for any that have interest. If I went with a thicker aluminum piece to join the floor sections together would I be doing the same thing as putting in 3/4 inch ply? I suppose I could throw a couple more in along the length of the stringers. Then I may still have an issue of screw length. I could throw an extra piece of 1/2 inch under the seats to make it a solid 1 inch for seat bases.

 

[Starman8]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Many on here went 3/4" floor, I didn't, but there is a huge difference between the choices.

I considered it until I decided to build the aft deck, so effectively only about 8 feet of the main cockpit
is 1/2", but very bolstered using basic stick frame concepts.

Since my bow is totally redesigned, I made it 1" thick by joing two 1/2" pieces with liquid nails
and 3/4" decking screws counter-sunk and filled.

All 4 floor bases in the cockpit under the decking is 3/4" marine grade fastened to the stringers and ribs
using L alum and rivets, then the decking was screwed into these backers, and subsequently, the floor
bases with 6 SS screws thru all of it, locked in tidy and sturdy.

My aft deck is 24" out from the splashwell into the cockpit, and is L-bracketed into the deck and back wall
so it can be removed if the PTT needs replacing, or the fuel tank. The back wall has removeable panels
to service the PTT when a bleeding is needed, and those are vented for circulation of air.

The area in front of the aft deck is where the main post of the ski tow is attached in the floor. The stringers
were laterally joined with aluminum framing and 2 and 1/2" of marine grade as bridging and a nailer for the post
receptacle.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

I put 3/4" decks in both my SC projects fastened down with deck screws.

 

[STARCRAFT16SS]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Did some more looking at other boats on this website...looked at dredog12 1968 Starcraft Supersport V and Salt4Life 1969 Starcraft Supersport V.... their boats are different then yours if you look at the aluminum support piece that holds up the bow wrap around seating...on our boats, (Otte & STARCRAFT16SS), the aluminum support piece has just a little edge on the end to screw to the vinyl covered boards in front of the consoles...and our vinyl covered boards go all the way down to the deck...it does not look to be so on the pics of the 1968,1969 & TC777 1970 Starcraft Supersport...

Hmm...now I'm thinking Otte's boat is ether a late 1970 or early 1971 built boatView attachment 127013View attachment 127014View attachment 127015View attachment 127016

 

[64osby]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Hey Otte, Great to see another Michigan Starcraft owner having fun.

I didn't rebuild, but my .02, 1/2" is fine if supported on 2' centers or less, 18" would be great. If your looking for specialty hardware. Grand Rapids Nut and Bolt has helped me in the past. Bulk pricing on just about anything, stainless and much more.

Looks like a great project, great family time and rewards, especially when splash time happens.

Doesn't look like much more outdoor work is going to happen with today's weather.



As a side note we really need to make sure the Starmada gets a outing in Michigan this year, Gull Lake could work.

 

[Otte]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Hey Otte, Great to see another Michigan Starcraft owner having fun.

I didn't rebuild, but my .02, 1/2" is fine if supported on 2' centers or less, 18" would be great. If your looking for specialty hardware. Grand Rapids Nut and Bolt has helped me in the past. Bulk pricing on just about anything, stainless and much more.

Looks like a great project, great family time and rewards, especially when splash time happens.

Doesn't look like much more outdoor work is going to happen with today's weather.



As a side note we really need to make sure the Starmada gets a outing in Michigan this year, Gull Lake could work.

Hey 64,

Thanks for the heads up on the GR nut and bolt Co. I am okay with the winter finally coming. I am done with outdoor work on the boat so "Let it Snow".

 

[Otte]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Did some more looking at other boats on this website...looked at dredog12 1968 Starcraft Supersport V and Salt4Life 1969 Starcraft Supersport V.... their boats are different then yours if you look at the aluminum support piece that holds up the bow wrap around seating...on our boats, (Otte & STARCRAFT16SS), the aluminum support piece has just a little edge on the end to screw to the vinyl covered boards in front of the consoles...and our vinyl covered boards go all the way down to the deck...it does not look to be so on the pics of the 1968,1969 & TC777 1970 Starcraft Supersport...

Hmm...now I'm thinking Otte's boat is ether a late 1970 or early 1971 built boatView attachment 127013View attachment 127014View attachment 127015View attachment 127016

Star - Thanks for continuing to look into the year of my boat. Does anyone know if I get in touch with Starcraft Co. if they would/could let me know for certain?

I have the boat sanded and flipped and hope to prime tomorrow. I will have some pictures up tomorrow.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

You'll get more support and information right here actually. If you call Starcraft you'll get your local dealer. If you email Starcraft it will come back, not delivered. Kind of a bummer really.

 

[Otte]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Here are some pictures of recent progress.

Picture 1 - Off the trailer and in the grass last Saturday when it was 48 degrees! Sanded outside in the driveway. Then went to harbor freight to get three furniture carts so it was low and able to wheel the boat where I want it. I can't take credit for the idea. I think it was H.A. or maybe another that gave me the idea.

Picture 2 - Not sure if the original paint was actually an almond or if it yellowed before it was painted the white when I got it.

Picture 3-5 - These are of the sanded and prepared boat for a coat of white, bare metal rustoleum primer. I did not need to prime as rusto goes on without primer but the primer acts as a great filler for sanding marks. I used 50 grit to get many of the former paint drips and bubbles found in the previous paint job(s). That grit etched the aluminum pretty good but I think the primer filled them in fairly well. I will find out tomorrow when I put a coat of white gloss on the bottom. If the sanding swirls are not gone to my satisfaction I may do one of two things. Go with an 80 grit to smooth out the swirls or try another coat of primer in the rough spots.

My plan for paint; I am going thin the paint down with thinner to the consistency of about water then roll two coats of white gloss rusto. then wet sand followed by two more coats, wet sand and finish with two coats. I am curious to see how this goes on.

One of those pictures is of the little propane heater that is helping me get the garage up to 60-65 degrees for painting. I got that at Menards for 35 bucks and worth every penny. The other heater is an electric oil heater that looks like an old hot water radiator. Keep in mind that it was 25 degrees today in Michigan. My garage is insulated but they seem to be doing a great job heating things up for me.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Lookin' good!

 

[dozerII]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Hey Otte, great looking project yo have there. I have used 5/8 ply for the floor in all my projects and it is a good compromise. The floors end up with no flex at all and the added 1/8 in doesn't affect the fit of any components. Where ever there ia pedistal for a seat I also add a second layer (doubler) under the floor to ensure they don't move around. Then I fasten the floor down with 1 1/4"rivets.
Glen