My Boat RUN!!!!!

[longstand]

Hello. i dont know if you guys still remember me.. well. i finaly got the new Motor for the TILT and install and work Great.

I tested the boat yesterday and it work....

it dont overheat. even tho one engine Meter saying its overheating but its not..

Boat Runs. but iam not used to a big boat like this. its kinda slow. it goes about 30MPH i dont think it will go any faster.. is this normal..

i just have few problem..

Both Engine is not in Sync. i push the lever and one engine has higher RPM...
and pushing the lever is so difficult.. arggg

but the good part is. the Engine RUNS.

 

[PiratePast40]

Re: My Boat RUN!!!!!

Congratulations on getting it running. I know what it's like to get things up and going - even if it's not perfect yet.

Sorry if I'm no help on the technical end, just glad to hear what you've accomplished.

 

[superpop]

Re: My Boat RUN!!!!!

Your motors are probably controlled by a cable that runs from the controller back to the motor. Do you have two controllers or one. In either case, if the controllers feel stiff when you engage the motors or the throttle then the cables are probably bad. Moisture gets in the jackets of the cables and rusts the cables and the whole thing becomes very stiff and does not move very smoothly. You need to address this ASAP or you will start breaking stuff like the controller. With any drive you want a fast and complete shift when going into and out of gear. OMC drives do not like to be shifted slowly or only half way. Bad cables may be causing the out of sync motors as well. You can get a pretty good idea of top speed by looking at the prop pitch, gear ratio and RPM's that the motors are spinning at. It is simple math to a certain degree. Do a search on these three terms and you will start to understand what you can expect for a top speed.

 

[Alpheus]

Re: My Boat RUN!!!!!

it dont overheat. even tho one engine Meter saying its overheating but its not..

How do you know that its not over heating? That could be related to your sync problem...

 

[longstand]

Re: My Boat RUN!!!!!

How do you know that its not over heating? That could be related to your sync problem...

Ones it get to a certain Degree. no matter how hard i run the engine. it never move. it only move when i turn the KEY-OFF..

Maybe i just remove the Sensor. its easy to remove it. and clean it out..

is there a way to test this before buying another one?

 

[longstand]

Re: My Boat RUN!!!!!

How do you know that its not over heating? That could be related to your sync problem...

I see that you have the same boat as my.. it looks the same too.. is it normal to have difficulty trying to dock such big boat.. i dock smaller boat before no problem.. this one just little bit more difficult. dont know if its the size of the boat. or maybe my engine is just not properly TUNE

Is there a trick on docking boat like this.. LOL..

 

[fat fanny]

Re: My Boat RUN!!!!!

I would address the temp difference 1st,controll stiffness issue 2nd then work on sycronizing the powerplants then worry about your docking proceedure. What will you do when your out away from shore and the controll cables snap engine overheats and blows? god forbid ! Boats can be work intensive if you let them.

 

[joey maneri]

Re: My Boat RUN!!!!!

You have a second temp sensor in the other motor you can try in the motor that the temp gage reads high. You can allso swap temp gages to see if the gage is bad. If none of this works it could be a wirring problem.

 

[longstand]

Re: My Boat RUN!!!!!

Right!!!!

I Will work on the TEMP program first.
it make sense. Hot Engine Crack a Block. NO good.

I will check this out today. and remove the Sensor and Clean it out. and then Exhange it with the other engine..

i will remove the Cable from the boat and SOAK it on Lubrication

 

[Don S]

Re: My Boat RUN!!!!!

i will remove the Cable from the boat and SOAK it on Lubrication

Replace it, lack of lubrication is not the problem. It's either got a groove worn on the inside of the cable, or the sheath is cracked and the inside has rusted and swelled shut.

Instead of swapping senders, why don't you get a IR temp gun and see if the engine is actually overheating.
Have the impellers in the outdrives ever been replaced? Are the manifolds and risers getting hot (use your hand and check). At 160?, 5 seconds is about max that you can hold your hand on it.

 

[longstand]

Re: My Boat RUN!!!!!

Replace it, lack of lubrication is not the problem. It's either got a groove worn on the inside of the cable, or the sheath is cracked and the inside has rusted and swelled shut.

Instead of swapping senders, why don't you get a IR temp gun and see if the engine is actually overheating.
Have the impellers in the outdrives ever been replaced? Are the manifolds and risers getting hot (use your hand and check). At 160?, 5 seconds is about max that you can hold your hand on it.

The Exhaust Manifold is not HOt just warm. i run the Engine Hard. and i could actually put my hand on the Manifold or the Riser. i also remove rust using electrolysis on all the exhaust manifold. and install 4 new risers.

it has new Thermostat and install properly.

Here is the Info about the Shift Cable

I remove the connection to the Carburator and disconnect it from the Lever that Put the Outdrive to Forward or Reverse. when i push Forward or reverse it was easy. but ones i connect call the Shift cable where is should be connected its STIFF

 

[Don S]

Re: My Boat RUN!!!!!

I remove the connection to the Carburator and disconnect it from the Lever that Put the Outdrive to Forward or Reverse. when i push Forward or reverse it was easy. but ones i connect call the Shift cable where is should be connected its STIFF

Sounds like a worn cable to me. With a little pressure on the other end of the cable, the bind worse on the inside. As I said before, replace the cable.

 

[longstand]

Re: My Boat RUN!!!!!

I have an idea.

well. you have notice that i have two level.. Each level Has two cable. One cable Pull/Push the Carburator to inject Gas into the engine. and the other cable put the outdrive on Forward/Reverse.

Is there a kit of someone has than this before..???

Connect Both Cable for both Outdrive which Turn the Outdrive to Reverse/Forward.

and

Connect Both Cable for both of the Carburator to One Level..

I think this will be a lot better.. and easyer..

One Lever Set Outdrive to Reverse/Forward While Engine is Idle at 600RPM or what ever the Manufactor suggest.


the other Lever Inject Gas into both Engine in a Sync ..

i like the sound of that....

any one try this??
is there a Kit ??
Can i just used the lever i have now and modified it ??

 

[triman]

Re: My Boat RUN!!!!!

Among the advantages of twin engines is they allow greatly increased maneouvrability, especially in confined spaces like inside a marina. By having one engine going ahead and one astern, with the proper wheel setting, it is possible to virtually walk a boat sideways.
If you go to a combining system of some sort you lose that ability.
Besides, if you have an engine failure it may not be possible to trim your boat correctly for single engine operation with a combined system.

 

[superpop]

Re: My Boat RUN!!!!!

Just replace the cables, they are not that expensive if you buy them online. Take all the old ones out, noting the routing locations. and then get a tape measure out and measure them, then go on line and order the same length cable. Easy squeezy. Don't trip over a buck to pick up a dime.

 

[superpop]

Re: My Boat RUN!!!!!

Have you done a compression test on these motors yet. I would do that if you have not and then check all the fluids. If not changed by you, I would change them all now.

 

[longstand]

Re: My Boat RUN!!!!!

Among the advantages of twin engines is they allow greatly increased maneouvrability, especially in confined spaces like inside a marina. By having one engine going ahead and one astern, with the proper wheel setting, it is possible to virtually walk a boat sideways.
If you go to a combining system of some sort you lose that ability.
Besides, if you have an engine failure it may not be possible to trim your boat correctly for single engine operation with a combined system.

ohh snap!!!!!..

Really.. So my boat Going side ways. its NORMAL.. GEZZZ. i should i ask that long time ago..

When one Engine RPM was higher on the other way. my boat seems to move side way instead of forward... arggg i need to pratice alot more with this boat..

iam going to put one outdrive to forward and one on Revese. lets see what happen..

in this case. i will just change the cable.. so i will be able to move my boat side ways.. it sound cool... LOL..

 

[Don S]

Re: My Boat RUN!!!!!

Might try posting a "How do operate a twin engine boat" question over in the Boat topics and questions forum. I would bet someone has info and possibly video's for it.

 

[longstand]

Re: My Boat RUN!!!!!

I have Remove all the connection to the Shift Cable.. Its still good. it move freely. so i check out the White box which Shift the Out-drive. its kinda hard ..

so i assume its Dirty inside.. it has the 2 wire cable which connect to the outdrive which put the outdrive forward or reverse.. i greese it up and still the same.. its not stuck. its not hard. its smoth but it has a smooth pressure...

its hard to explain.. it has pressure when i pull the cable that switch the outdrive to reverse or forward.

please tell me what this white box call. i sound like an idiot. saying white box..i cant seem to find the proper name for it in my Repair book

 

[longstand]

Re: My Boat RUN!!!!!

Don S..

Hey i actually did what you just type about remove the shift cable from the shift bracket.

well my shift bracket has a white housing when open there is 2 wires which goes into the lower part of the outdrive to shift the boat.

i dont know how hard of a resisitant this shift bracket bracket has. but both of my shift bracket has the same resistance when shift to Forward or Reverse. its not hard. its smoth but with some resistance.

is this normal.

in other hand. i think my shift cable is still good condition. as you mention above.. i remove the cable from the shift bracket and the cable move freely..

to insulate the shifting problem. i have left the Shift cable to the Carburator to see if only the Shift cable to the shift brackek. and STILL THE LEVEL MOVE Freely. but ones the shift is connected to the shift brackek. i fill the resistance..


ALSO...

I open the white box where the shift bracket is located and lubricated it and put Anti-Seize to stop any rust