bergerandfries
Cadet
- Joined
- May 29, 2009
- Messages
- 16
Hey all,
I know it's been beaten to death, but I wanted to show how I got my OMC 800 Stringer Tilt Motor and Clutch apart. I have the Seloc and Clymer manuals, and like all things, the manual didn't cover it all. Especially the length of your arm required to do the motor without removing the drive from the boat and how to remove the retainer bearing from the tilt shaft. In fact, I'm so proud of the bearing removal that I'm going to start another post for that.
Ok, the motor was really easy for me to remove and replace because I'm 6'3" and have 34" sleeves. If you don't, find a friend who does. I reached under my engine (cheek of my face against the stern bulkhead) with the new motor, slid it into the housing on the stern drive by feel only. At this point, the motor will stay in place because of the housing, so you can grab the lower bolt and hand tighten it. Use a socket to go 1/2 turn tighter ONLY. The shaft WILL bind if you go beyond just over hand tight. Repeat reaching down from the top side of the stern drive to put in the upper bolt. Again, hand tight and 1/2 turn past ONLY.
For the clutch pack, I've attached pics. As you can see, the clutch was a mess due to water instead of oil. Really no mystery why it wasn't working right. I tried to include a picture of the seals for the clutch pack shaft, which is a two-part seal. The inner seal touches the shaft inside the housing and keeps oil from leaking out. The inner seal then touches the outer seal, and at that point the seals do NOT touch the shaft. Then the outer seal touches the shaft at the outside of the housing to keep water out. I noticed that my seals are blown and there's a tiny spring inside the seal that was poking out. I'm guessing the seal is ripped.
From the Seloc manual, it doesn't talk at all about removing the tilt shaft cover plate or how to remove the retainer bearing. The Clymer just says to remove the plate and bearing, without any tips on how to remove the bearing. I solved it by attaching a very strong magnet to the bearing and wiggling it loose.
Also, when you do get the worm gear out, WATCH OUT FOR THE CLUTCH GEAR HOUSING! That sucker will drop to the ground fast, and pavement isn't good for it, I don't think. Luckily, mine wasn't hurt. Yours might not be so lucky.
Thanks all for the ideas on this job on this forum. I'm currently soaking the clutch pack in SAE30 oil. I will put all new seals on the tilt, will fill the clutch housing with grease instead of oil, and forget about this part of the drive for 5 years. I also plan to adjust the tension screw in the end of the clutch shaft with an allen wrench if the drive has problems going up, however, I don't really expect to have to do that.
I'm also going to post about the condition of the ball gears on the drive, as they don't look so hot to me. Need another opinion...
I know it's been beaten to death, but I wanted to show how I got my OMC 800 Stringer Tilt Motor and Clutch apart. I have the Seloc and Clymer manuals, and like all things, the manual didn't cover it all. Especially the length of your arm required to do the motor without removing the drive from the boat and how to remove the retainer bearing from the tilt shaft. In fact, I'm so proud of the bearing removal that I'm going to start another post for that.
Ok, the motor was really easy for me to remove and replace because I'm 6'3" and have 34" sleeves. If you don't, find a friend who does. I reached under my engine (cheek of my face against the stern bulkhead) with the new motor, slid it into the housing on the stern drive by feel only. At this point, the motor will stay in place because of the housing, so you can grab the lower bolt and hand tighten it. Use a socket to go 1/2 turn tighter ONLY. The shaft WILL bind if you go beyond just over hand tight. Repeat reaching down from the top side of the stern drive to put in the upper bolt. Again, hand tight and 1/2 turn past ONLY.
For the clutch pack, I've attached pics. As you can see, the clutch was a mess due to water instead of oil. Really no mystery why it wasn't working right. I tried to include a picture of the seals for the clutch pack shaft, which is a two-part seal. The inner seal touches the shaft inside the housing and keeps oil from leaking out. The inner seal then touches the outer seal, and at that point the seals do NOT touch the shaft. Then the outer seal touches the shaft at the outside of the housing to keep water out. I noticed that my seals are blown and there's a tiny spring inside the seal that was poking out. I'm guessing the seal is ripped.
From the Seloc manual, it doesn't talk at all about removing the tilt shaft cover plate or how to remove the retainer bearing. The Clymer just says to remove the plate and bearing, without any tips on how to remove the bearing. I solved it by attaching a very strong magnet to the bearing and wiggling it loose.
Also, when you do get the worm gear out, WATCH OUT FOR THE CLUTCH GEAR HOUSING! That sucker will drop to the ground fast, and pavement isn't good for it, I don't think. Luckily, mine wasn't hurt. Yours might not be so lucky.
Thanks all for the ideas on this job on this forum. I'm currently soaking the clutch pack in SAE30 oil. I will put all new seals on the tilt, will fill the clutch housing with grease instead of oil, and forget about this part of the drive for 5 years. I also plan to adjust the tension screw in the end of the clutch shaft with an allen wrench if the drive has problems going up, however, I don't really expect to have to do that.
I'm also going to post about the condition of the ball gears on the drive, as they don't look so hot to me. Need another opinion...
