Need help with 1994 50HP Evinrude E50TLERE

[andreipou]

Hello,
I just got this motor to re-power my 17' pontoon.
Previous owner had dealer install it on 1968 boat year ago, but he never finished the boat and wanted to get rid of the whole thing, so I got motor with boat and trailer attached to it.
I had bunch of OMC motors from 6 to 40 HP , but the youngest was 1977.
This 1994 is more complex and has VRO system I am new to, so I am learning it now.
Before I took it off the original boat I tested compression (151/150), put new plugs, new gas and new oil. Motor sneezed and ran fine in the tank.
Just to be sure I took old boat to my home lake and ran 28 m/h with no issues.
I was happy and disconnected controls, cut off VRO oil line and put it on my pontoon trying to keep all as it was.
I expected it to work fine since it was exactly the same , except I used tank with 50:1 oil mix as instructed by manual until I make sure that VRO works.
It does not start.
I took off carbs and cleaned them.
I took off primer solenoid and tested it as per manual.
I followed exactly steps in the Repair manual for Sync and Link adjustments and remotes connection.
Carbs get filled with fuel, so pump is fine I believe.
I disconnected primer hose from top carb and it spits fuel when I push choke in.
I did put gas into cyls and tried - it did not run.
But ignition is working, because when I take screwdriver and put is to open throttle shafts just a little it starts and runs ( a little rough, but runs).
According to instructions both throttle plates are completely closed when engine starts and it is how it supposed to start , but it does not. I would think that it needs air since when I force throttles it runs.
At this point I am not sure what is wrong.

Can anyone advise on what to try?

Thanks.

 

[racerone]

Check flywheel key.----No you need to advance " throttle only lever " to open throttle plates slightly for cold start.---And at idle the throttle plates are to be closed with air going through calibrated holes.

 

[andreipou]

Check flywheel key.----No you need to advance " throttle only lever " to open throttle plates slightly for cold start.---And at idle the throttle plates are to be closed with air going through calibrated holes.

Not sure what it means: "Check flywheel key".
Can you explain , please?

 

[racerone]

A sheared key throws out the timing.

 

[andreipou]

A sheared key throws out the timing.

I think you mean small metal "segment" that holds flywheel from turning on flywheel shaft , right?
It just ran fine on old boat and stopped running after moving motor to new boat, so it not likely to be an issue.


Other than that I am also thinking now to remove VRO completely because it looks like it is common source of issues on those old motors and also, the kicker I have on pontoon is an oil mix motor, so I would need an extra tank to put somewhere now with VRO.
Maybe, while I do that I find what is causing it not to start now....

 

[oldboat1]

I believe you are to plug the oil line at the motor, not cut it. After plugging the oil line, you disconnect the VRO wire harness. Connect a fresh portable tank with 50:1 mix.

Based on your statement that the motor was running, all of the actions you took (carbs, link and sync, etc.) may not have been necessary and in fact may have given you other issues -- incl. transfer of the controls. If you are sure you did the pre-mix conversion correctly, check all of those other actions. Be aware that the old fuel source may be contaminated (adding fuel will not change that).

 

[andreipou]

I believe you are to plug the oil line at the motor, not cut it. After plugging the oil line, you disconnect the VRO wire harness. Connect a fresh portable tank with 50:1 mix.

Based on your statement that the motor was running, all of the actions you took (carbs, link and sync, etc.) may not have been necessary and in fact may have given you other issues -- incl. transfer of the controls. If you are sure you did the pre-mix conversion correctly, check all of those other actions. Be aware that the old fuel source may be contaminated (adding fuel will not change that).

The oil hose did not have any "disconnecting" option and I had to cut it next to motor because I was not able to pull it off and did not want to break inlet.
I agree that I might messed up something, but as you said I was expecting it to work "as it was" and it did not, so out of other options I decided to do all steps "by the book" hoping it would work.

I did a lot of reading today and I am convinced that deleting VRO will be a good thing. While I do that I will replace all hoses just to ensure it is not a fuel issue. I hope this will get it running and I can do the rest of tune up.

 

[Faztbullet]

This would be my last pick of engines to install on a toon. To try and keep the gearcase alive prop toward max RPM and no water sports(tubing). These gearcases are notorious for problems

 

[andreipou]

This would be my last pick of engines to install on a toon. To try and keep the gearcase alive prop toward max RPM and no water sports(tubing). These gearcases are notorious for problems

The dealer got it off pontoon for previous owner.
It came with high torque/pontoon prop.
I use my small 17' pontoon for fishing and run most of the time on kicker, but 50HP will be very useful on big lake and Hudson.

 

[oldboat1]

Good luck with it! One fix at a time.

 

[andreipou]

Hi,
Got the parts.
Removed VRO.
Put new fuel pump, all new hoses, new filter, rebuilt primer pump, rebuilt both carbs.
Checked all adjustments by the service manual.
Exactly the same problem: does not start. If I open the carb throttles a little manually it starts and runs. But, they are supposed to stay closed when start.

I took out spark plugs one after another, grounded them and run starter for a few secs just to see nice spark on both.

I am stuck.
Any ideas please?

 

[racerone]

Who says throttles plates should be closed for cold starting ??

 

[andreipou]

It follows from instructions for adjustments (see attached).
When throttle lever is in neutral ( and that is the only way to start) throttle cam does not even touch cam follower and throttle plates are closed.

Unless I am not getting it correctly.

Also, on first picture, do I understand correctly that in step #2 they mean length marked with red lines?

 

[racerone]

Throttle plates must be open slightly for cold starting of your motor !

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

just flip up that warmup lever for fast idle, get it started and settle it down. if the idle is so low it won't stay running or start when warm, you need to turn the idle timing screw in some to put more timing into it! you say it runs rough, but do you mean at a very low rpm?

 

[andreipou]

I understand guys what you are talking about and I already thought about it because I have another 1981 50HP Evinrude which is the same motor only a little simpler. Its control has lever on the top that you lift to start when it is really cold (but it starts without it when it is worm).
The 1994 came with binnacle RC I was not familiar with. It has a big button on the top I could not figure, but left it alone since it did not do anything. I did some googling now and it is cover for "neutral warm-up rod" (oops!). It looks like it allows you to move throttle forward without engaging shift for warm-up (oops-oops!!!).
I will play with it today.
What is killing me is the fact that it was working absolutely fine the way it was on the old boat and stopped on new one. I put effort to not to change any throttle linkage or any connection\adjustment , just moved them....
This really set me off.

 

[andreipou]

That was the trick.
I was able to start engine and do all the adjustments for idle screw , low speed screw, etc. to get stable , smooth run.
The final adjustment will be done on the lake as book says.

Thank a lot to everyone responding.
As always talking to smart people on this forum helps to move in correct direction.