Need of some help Chrysler 55hp 1971

[Ramseyvan]

I just purchased a 1971 Chrysler 55hp model number 558hc serial number 3197. I purchased this from a guy he said that it needs a coil. I took a look today and one coil marked with Motorola was unhooked and just laying there. The coil that is hooked up is not marked with Motorola and looks slightly larger than the other. I was wondering if anyone could tell me which one is the correct one for it . It came with a parts motor that had a different style ignition on it because it has a black box and the coils are mounted in aadifferent location. l I'm assuming that one coil came from the parts motor. Does it matter that these coils are different and can I just put a regular 12v tractor coil on it.

 

[wickware]

My 35 HP Is a magneto system with coils under the fly wheel. Try and find you a Clymer Manual at your Library of Etc.. Try an reach out to “Nordin” who is on top of Chrysler Engines. I am sure he will know and show you the correct coil. Good Luck!

 

[Ramseyvan]

Ok I sent him a message I hope he gets it

 

[jerryjerry05]

You can add photos to the post.
It used to be you needed 5 post to add but I looked and can't find the correct amount??
The " [h=1]Forum Rules and Guidelines" used to have the amount ?[/h]
Now only a couple links open for adding pics.

I have used Shutterfly and others used photo bucket.

The pics will help ID the coils??

 

[wickware]

Good Photos are worth more than words in some cases IMO! I size my photos in Photoshop (under a Meg and copy and paste from my Photo Folder into my post after selecting the Camera Icon. It might be a limit of 5 Pics.

 

[Ramseyvan]

ok here are the pictures I need to confirm this is a battery style ignition. The last picture is the coil that was just laying there with a crack in it. Also up by the stator there is a blue wire as you can see in the picture that isn't connected to anything. Can you tell me what to hook it to ? ​​​​​​​

 

[Nordin]

Your engine is a battery ignition model and the coil is a MagnaPower CD ignition coil and it will not fit your system.
As I mention in your PM the secondary resistence for a battery coil is about 5-6 kOhm.
The MagnaPower coil has a secondary resistance about 5-600 Ohm.
You will fried it.

I think the blue wire you pointing at is one of the three that comes from the stator.
Early 45Hp and 55Hp had a 3 fas stator and a 3 fas rectifirer.
Now you have a singel fas rectifirer at your Engine. Pull the flywheel and check where it is connected.
If it comes from the stator just insult it and leave it.

The ignition coils should be feed by the blue wires that you have in the lower part where the bracket for them is.
It runs from to the keyswitch I teminal through terminal strip and to the positive terminal at both ignition coils.

White is minus for #1 coil and the brown to minus at the other (#2) coil.
You have the wire diagram at Mastertech Marine web site.

You can use an auto style ignition coil but do not use one with an build in resistor.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The cracks don't mean the coils bad.
Age and heat make them crack.
If it sparks?? Just fill it with black silly cone and paint it with that black plastic spray the guy used to float his boat with the screen door.

 

[Ramseyvan]

Thanks for your reply guys. The coil hooked up works the one off of it is fried. Now I need to know if any 12v coil automotive coil will work . Nordin says I can use one without a internal resistor but should I try and find one that matches resistance. Any suggestions on one to use or should I just pay the 85 dollars for the nos on ebay

 

[Nordin]

I would suggest you to try an auto style from a junked car first.
Why buy a new one, I would not.

Do not be blind about the resistance, your factory one is about 5-6 kOhm secondary.
An Automotive is about 10-15 kOhm and that is 3 times more your factory one BUT the MagnaPower CD coil you have is about 5-600 Ohm secondary and that is 1000 times less !!

 

[Nordin]

Sorry, sorry
Must correct my self.
Not 1000 times less BUT 10 times less.
Bad calculation.

Still, an auto style coil will work.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Nordin knows about the older stuff.!!!

 

[Ramseyvan]

Awesome, thanks for your help guys. Anyway someone could tell me the part number for the points on this thing

 

[Nordin]

Points partnumber F12329-2, tune kit FK1075 but both are N/A.

Try Franz Marine, he will know if you will be able to find some.
If not then you have to check Ebay if they shows up there.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Not sure where your from??
If there is a Granger Parts store near you??
They might be able to match your stuff??

Fill out the signature(see the bottom of my post) and include the motor and a location and anything else you want.
That way we know what we're working on??

 

[Ramseyvan]

I do not have a Granger parts store near me. I ended up purchasing a coil off eBay I thought I had the right one ordered it looks similar but turns out it is smaller in diameter and the holder didn't hold it. Figured out quick that if I leave my key on the on position without running the coil gets hot. However with a bit of manual action from the throttle and choke I got it to fire up. Now I am having issues getting it to idle on it's own and it does not want to rev up. I took the carb apart and inspected and cleaned it . I rechecked that I was getting spark. And when I took the bottom plug out it was clean as a whistle which kinda concerned me because the top plug was blackish with slight oil on it . Why would my bottom plug be so clean. What do I need to do to get it to idle on it's own and rev. I checked the compression of both cylinders and the top was 145 and the bottom was at 134. Is this an acceptable range?do you Think I just need to check my points ? Is it possible the bottom cylinder is getting wet ? If so how ? Maybe it's just not getting fuel to the bottom cylinder? What would cause fuel to get to the top but not the bottom ? Also when in nuetral my prop spins is this normal . My test bucket water never stayed still in nuetral is this a problem . Also checked and there is water in my lower anyone have a part number for a lower seal kit for this thing? Should I throw in the towel now ? And it burns fuel like nothing I ever seen before just tinkering for less than an hour and burned 2 gallons of gas. I think most of it ended up in my test bucket cause it has a nice layer of black residue in it

 

[Nordin]

Pretty normal that one ignition coil gets hot if you leave the ignition ON when not running the engine if it has battery system.
The points is closed most of the time during one revolution.
When the points is closed the prime side of the coil winding is pulling power.... the coil gets hot.

Soo never leave the key in ON position when not running.

About your other issue, have you checked the fuel pump diaphragm?
Over and under pressure pulses from the crankcase drives the diaphragm back and forth.
If the diaphragm is cracked or worn fuel will pump direct into the crankcase and fload one of the cylinders.

I suggest you to check the diaphragm, scheck the points setting and check that you have spark at both plugs.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The bottom cyl. runs the fuel pump and if the diaphragm is bad? then
the plug can stay clean and excessive fuel use is also a problem.
Poor idle is another symptom of a bad pump.

Prop spin is normal.

Do a pressure test before you try to reseal. It could be something simple as a bad drain plug seal.

 

[Ramseyvan]

Ok thanks guys I will check the diaphragm in my pump this weekend and update with my findings. Thanks again

 

[Ramseyvan]

Well it was a hole in the diaphragm to the fuel pump. You guys are awesome.i put the one on from my parts motor and fired right up and idled well. No black residue in bucket went in to gear and reved up good. My choke isnot working so I will have to figure that out. Can anyone help me find a part number to a lower seal kit and impeller.